I inherited an older Delta 10 inch table saw. While cutting lumber the blade slows down and stops. The wood is not binding the blade. With power off the blades and motor turn freely. Does the motor need service?

is blade tight, are the blade washers in place, willl it cut a pice of wood? if it does not cut wood look at part 321



Delta 36 510 Parts List and Diagram Type 2 eReplacementParts com

NOS Delta Table Saw Jackshaft Assembly 1343258 for 36 510 T2 Bench Saw eBay

You just do not have a saw that has enough power, the blade is dull or both. Change your blade and push the wood through slower or get a more powerful saw for the hard woods.

If I understood correctly, you started using your husband's table saw and while ripping boards, you managed to stall out the blade AND motor?! If that's the case, you probably have a very dull blade and are binding your board on the blade. Neither is safe and it sounds like trouble is brewing.

First and foremost, get someone to show you how to safely and properly use and adjust the saw if you are new to wood working and power tools. That saw is capable of turning your lumber into a high speed missal if you do things improperly.

It also sounds like you tried installing a new 10" saw blade. Changing the blade requires 2 wrenches. One to hold the arbor and one to tighten the nut. The blade itself should rest on the arbor between two large washers. Also make sure you install the blade so the front face of the cutter teeth face you and rotate toward you. Make sure the saw is unplugged when changing the blade and never turn on your saw with a loose blade.

It may be that the motor is under powered for the load, but more likely it sounds like the motor is defective. Perhaps some of the windings have shorted. That might allow the blade to spin, but stop under any load. What brand and model is this saw?

Check that the blade is not warped or binding. Don't use long extension cords. Check your home breakers. Also check if the table saw has a breaker. Don't force lumber into the blade too fast and don't jam the lumber between the guide and blade. Try a different outlet and check your wire for breaks. Good luck!

How would you rip 12 inches if your riping a 2x4 on a 45 secondly the blade of that saw and weather or not you were cutting through the grain on treated lumber. But if all that has been checked chances are one of the brushes on the motor need replacing. there are usually 2 black caps on both sides of motor that have replaceable brushes if one stops making good contact you get half power when cutting. You can check them and or replace if needed.

Hi, W/D here.
Unplug the saw first. Raise the plastic around the blade on the table and look first for material around the arbor, particularly slivers of wood. These can sometimes act as a "brake" and cause the machine to rotate slower. Clean out all sawdust and wood slivers. You can get most of it with a vacuum. While you have access to the arbor, rotate the arbor by hand, feeling for excessive resistance. You can lubricate the arbor with a light machine oil. Look at the belt, and test the tension by squeezing the belt toward the other side, in the middle between the pulley on the motor and the pulley on the arbor. It should squeeze in (deflect) about an inch or so, and be tight in it's position. If the quality of the belt is not up to par; if you feel that it is stretched, or is cracked or otherwise deteriorated, replace it. You can get replacement belts from auto parts stores, at a significantly lower price than ordering through Sears. They'll match you up. While the belt is off, blow the windings of the motor out with compressed air. Sawdust infiltrated into the motor can also cause the motor to run slower. Lastly, take a very close look at the blade. A dull blade will cut slower, and this is especially noticeable in wetter and harder woods. Examples of wetter wood would include treated lumber; harder woods would include species like oak. If the blade is dull, have it sharpened, or replace it.
Best regards, --W/D--

I am a retired contractor.
I have a shop with a 10" table saw.
And I have opinions about safe operation.

For safety, turn saw off when making adjustments.

1) Raise blade:
There is a handle you turn to raise the blade.
If you are cutting 1/2" plywood, then set your blade at 3/4" or a bit more.
Keep blade low and away from hands.
Keep hands high and away from blade.

For 1-1/2" thick 2x4, I usually set the saw at 1" and run the board through, and then flip the board over and run it through again, taking 2 passes to make really thick cuts.



2) Blade angle
There is a second handle you turn to set blade at an angle up to 45 degrees
Angle cannot be set if saw blade is fully raised >> lower blade to half way or less and experiment.
Angle cuts are difficult if wood is not perfectly flat and square, or too long or too short (boy is that helpful ... but cutting angles takes some experimentation)

3) Table Guide
You stand behind power saw to operate
The saw table guide is on left side of blade and clamps across the table
The guide markings show inches >>> these are usually approximate
To set guide for accuracy, measure distance from blade to saw guide, and then clamp guide down.

4) Push sticks push sticks push sticks and other safety stuff
Let me emphasize safety first last and always
A table saw will chop your fingers off in a blink
On the plus side, I hear it doesn't hurt. But OMG.
There is a very strong human instinct to reach in with your hand when working on stuff
Train your mind >> if the saw is running, do not lean or reach into the saw
If a board is stuck >>> turn off the saw and wait for full stop
If you wear baggy clothes of a loose shirt, the saw will grab you and pull you in too fast for you to react
Keep your clothes tight and your arms bare

Always use push sticks or push boards::

Notice the saw blade is set low
Two push sticks are used to assist when cutting short board > one stick holds down the board ahead of blade, the other stick is pushing board through saw.
Keep your hands away from the blade no matter what.
The person stands behind and to the side of the board being cut.
The cut wood is supported by a catch table (in this case there are rollers)

Where to stand
Obviously you stand behind the saw to cut wood, and sometimes with long pieces, you can move in front and pull them through, and sometimes with large plywood you stand kinda back and to the side.

Why not stand directly behind a saw? Because saws throw stuff back.
When 'ripping' a board lengthwise as shown in photo above, if the saw catches the board just right, it will throw it backwards like a spear.

If a board 'binds' the saw causing saw blade to stop, then turn off saw, back up the board, and cut again.

Crosscut guide
The saw comes with a T-shaped guide that fits into a groove.
This is a 'push stick' >>> you use it to cross cut a board, and it lets you stand to the side of the saw blade so things wont flip back on you
When using the cross cut guide, remove the table guide that clamps across the saw, or push the table guide WAY back so pieces don't get caught in a bind and the blade flips up the piece and hits you in the face
Remember, the saw throws everything backwards

The saw is strong and fast, and you are best when traveling slow and without rush around your strong friend.

You have a 5/8" diameter arbor. You can use any dado blade that will fit. That said here's a few things to bear in mind.

8" diameter dado stacks are pretty standard for 10" contractor table saws. A dado stack is typically about 13/16" wide at most. It makes sense that the wider your blade is, the more power it takes to cut through the wood.

If you were to use the full width capacity of your Dado stack (13/16") a 10" diameter stack would bog down. A 8" stack has a faster rotation at the cutting edge because of its smaller radius. So, you don't bog down when you're making a wider cut if you use a smaller diameter.

If your machine was really underpowered, you could go down to a 6" stack which would cut your power requirements even more, but limits the depth of cut.

If this post was helpful, please vote. Thanks.

The Blade Arbor is held to the bottom of the table with mounting screws and stop/adjusting screws. Loosen the mounting screw and adjust the stop screws to make Blade true with miter slot.