I've done something to my Olympus pen epl1! The photos taken with Programme, Shutter Priority, Aperture Priority and Manual modes all have a blueish tinge. iAuto, art, scene modes are all fine. How do I fix this? Thanks!

The question in the title and the first sentence imply to me that you have confused manual mode and RAW format.

Title: "Why does my brand new Canon 6D freeze when shooting in RAWD freeze when shooting in RAW"

First sentence: "My brand new Canon 6D freezes when I try to shoot in manual."

Manual mode means you are responsible for all of the settings related to exposure (aperture, ISO, and shutterspeed). RAW is a specific file format to save the photo. They are independent of each other.

My guess is that in manual mode you have the shutterspeed set to the maximum of 30 seconds. The camera isn't going to automatically adjust it for you in manual mode. If you're new to DSLRs, start with Ae (Aperture priority) or Tv (Shutter priority). In Ae mode, you control the aperture and the camera will select the shutterspeed. In Tv mode, you select the shutterspeed and the camera selects the aperture for you. Start off with Auto ISO. This will help you learn what combinations of settings work well together.

It depends on the lens.

If you're using a lens with an aperture ring, simply set the exposure mode to Manual or Aperture priority and change the aperture by turning the aperture ring on the lens. In Aperture priority the camera will set the shutter speed appropriately, in Manual you have to determine the appropriate shutter speed. If you want to use such a lens in Shutter priority or one of the Program modes, you must set the aperture to its smallest setting (largest f/number) and lock it.

If you're using a lens without an aperture ring then it's a bit harder. You can only use the camera in Shutter priority or one of the Program modes. You turn the command dial on the camera to change the exposure, and the aperture will change. If you want to use an exposure different than what the meter suggests, you can adjust it by using either exposure compensation or changing the ISO setting (or both).

If you need a manual, you can download one from
http://butkus.org/chinon/nikon/nikon_n6006af/nikon_n6006af.htm

Sounds like you set either the aperture to a large small number (large aperture) or the shutter speed to a long value. If this is the case, it should be that in AUTO mode, things work fine, but one of C, M, Av or Tv (custom, manual, aperture priority, shutter priority) modes, the aperture or time are set to something that is good for indoors, but outdoors (where the light is brighter) too much light comes in.

It could also be that the ISO ("film" speed) is set too high for bright light. Again, in AUTO mode, the camera takes care of this setting.

Try each of the shooting modes and see which ones work. If Av is the one that is over-exposed, try making the aperture smaller. If Tv, make the shutter time shorter. If M, make both Aperture smaller and shutter time shorter.

The error code means that you have mounted a lens with a manual aperture control and have failed to set the control to the minimum aperture setting (highest number). By setting the control to the minimum aperture, the camera can then automatically select any aperture between the maximum and minimum settings when taking the photo. The actual aperture selection is either set automatically by the camera body (if in shutter priority or auto/program modes) or is done using the camera body controls when in aperture priority or manual modes.

If you have done so and still have the problem then add a comment and we'll explore further possibilities which all involve a fault with either the lens or the camera body.

If I have resolved your problem then please take a moment to rate my answer.

Quite right too. When the M42 adaptor is fitted there is absolutely no exchange of information between the lens and the body: M42 lenses pre-date all of those later developments. Your camera will also be unable to stop down the lens automatically when taking the picture, most M42 lenses don't even stop down automatically when connected to an M42 body.

You need to do things the old-fashioned way. Your camera needs to be set to meter manually, shutter priority mode may also be used. In manual mode you focus the lens as normal with the aperture ring set to the lowest aperture number (i.e.aperture is wide open).
You then make sure that the lens in in manual mode as well and stop down to whatever you want, if the image remains bright enough then you can adjust the precise focus using the hyperfocal principle if you like which takes advantage of the increased depth of field of a stopped down lens.
In manual mode, you then tell the camera what aperture you have set (read it from the lens barrel) and set the shutter speed using the camera's light meter to guide you. If using shutter priority mode then the camera will choose the shutter speed for you.
Check everything is set as you intend and press the shutter.

It all sounds long winded but is exactly how many of the world's greatest photos were taken and soon becomes second nature. You also learn far more about the relationship between aperture, shutter speed and ISO settings and will be able to talk about reciprocity like you know about it!

OM-20 was basically a upgraded OM-10 with the manual adapter built in and a number of other refinements.

The viewfinder has LED's to show the shutter speed recommended by the camera's lightmeter for the ISO and aperture selected. It also has an exposure compensation indicator (the +/- symbol) and an indicator for flash ready which doubles up as a post-exposure flash confirmation. There is also the indicator lamp to show manual mode has been selected. OM-10 lacks the manual mode lamp and the +/- indicator.

Like the OM-10, the OM-20 is primarily an aperture priority automatic camera. In this mode you set the ISO film speed, choose which aperture you wish to use (with the ability to use the lens depth of field preview button) and then the camera selects the correct shutter speed. The +/- exposure compensation control allows the user to tell the camera to modify the recommended shutter speed by up to two stops either way.

In manual mode, there is no manual metering. The light meter behaves exactly as it does in aperture priority mode and the viewfinder shows the recommended shutter speed and not the manually selected one. Correct metering is therefore a case of adjusting the aperture first, and then choosing the correct shutter speed indicated in the viewfinder. If the user then decides to select a different shutter speed, then the aperture ring must be adjusted to maintain the correct exposure. For example the aperture is set to f8 and the camera recommends 1/60th of a second. The user decides that a faster shutter speed is required and chooses 1/250th, but the viewfinder remains showing 1/60th. In order to keep the same exposure value the user must open the aperture by two full stops to f4. The camera's light meter will detect the new aperture setting and providing the light on the object is unchanged the viewfinder shutter speed display should now show 1/250th as well to confirm the correct adjustment. Alternatively, the user can choose the shutter speed first by looking at what has been set on the control ring (or by turning the ring to the end of its travel and then counting the clicks from there as all experienced OM users do) and then turning the aperture ring until the shutter speed shown in the viewfinder matches what's been manually set.

It all sounds clumsy and complex but is done far more quickly than I've taken to type this and becomes second nature.

Aperture priority metering is selected on the camera by choosing AUTO on the mode selecter. In this mode the shutter speed ring has no effect and the viewfinder always displays the automatically selected shutter speed.

The settings in Auto Mode are factory set. If you want to adjust exposure and shutter speeds then you will have to shoot in Manual Mode (TV=Shutter Priority, AV=Aperture Priority, M=Full Manual)

s I understand it from what I have seen on the Web, the 3000Z can operate in several modes: 1. Fully automatic (camera select both 2. Manual (user sets both aperture and shutter speed). 3. Aperture Priority mode - user sets aperture and camera chooses correct shutter speed to get a good exposure Apparently there is no Shutter Priority mode (user cannot set only the shutter er speed and allow the camera to set the aperature to get a good exposure). This option is available on the Epson 850Z camera and this seems like a silly ommision to make on a "high-end" camera like the 3000Z.

The following exposure options are available: P (Program auto), A (Aperture priority), S (Shutter priority), and M (Manual). There are four scene programs modes available in which the camera will choose the optimal settings for the picture: Landscape: Suitable for taking photos of landscapes and other outdoor scenes. Both the foreground and the background are in focus. Since blues and greens are reproduced vividly in this mode, the landscape mode is excellent for shooting natural scenery. Portrait: Suitable for shooting a portrait-style image of a person. This mode features an in-focus subject against a blurred background. Sports: Suitable for capturing fast-moving action such as sports scene or moving vehicles without blurring. Night scene: Suitable for taking night scene photos with a slower shutter speed.

The following exposure options are available: P (Program auto), A (Aperture priority), S (Shutter priority), and M (Manual). There are five scene programs modes available in which the camera will choose the optimal settings for the picture: - Landscape + Portrait: Suitable for taking photos of both you subject and background. The picture is taken with the background as well as the subject in the foreground in focus. - Landscape: Suitable for taking photos of landscapes and other outdoor scenes. Both the foreground and the background are in focus. Since blues and greens are reproduced vividly in this mode, the landscape mode is excellent for shooting natural scenery. - Portrait: Suitable for shooting a portrait-style image of a person. This mode features an in-focus subject against a blurred background. - Sports: Suitable for capturing fast-moving action such as sports scene or moving vehicles without blurring. - Night scene: Suitable for taking night scene photos with a slower shutter speed.