Removing oil-based primer from LCD monitor screen

To spray paint your ATV frame matte black, you will need the following materials:

• Matt black spray paint specifically designed for use on metal surfaces
• A clean, well-ventilated workspace
• Masking tape and newspaper or plastic sheeting to cover any parts of the ATV you do not want to paint
• Primer specifically designed for use on metal surfaces
• A paint respirator to protect your lungs from inhaling fumes
• A spray gun or spray can
• Sandpaper or a wire brush to prepare the surface of the frame

Before you begin, it's important to properly prepare the surface of the frame by cleaning it thoroughly and removing any rust or old paint. Use sandpaper or a wire brush to remove any loose paint or rust. Once the frame is clean and dry, apply a coat of primer specifically designed for metal surfaces. This will help the paint adhere better and ensure a smooth finish.
Allow the primer to dry completely before applying the first coat of matte black spray paint. Hold the spray gun or can about 8-10 inches away from the surface and apply the paint in thin, even coats. Allow each coat to dry completely before applying the next. Once the final coat is dry, you can remove the masking tape and newspaper or plastic sheeting and reassemble the ATV.

Scrape off any loose paint. Sand it down, removing any rust. Use an enamel spray paint primer first. Then finish with a good quality exterior spray paint like rustoleum. Put on a few thin layers of paint allowing it to dry between coats.

sure , its when you want to put oil overtop the latex then you got a challenge

I would wipe it down with a degreaser like Simple Green, or paint thinner
The paint is ruin after cleaning it you will need to paint. You can prime the area with a oil base white primer in an spray can

Bulls Eye should be oil or shellac based
& may not be compatible to cover with latex

Read the bulls eye label

I would shellac any knots,then prime with oil
based primer twice, in different directions,
then you can cover with either

Usually when you have cracking on your windows, there's several variables including sunlight. One of the biggest problems is using the incorrect primer or a cheap paint. Contrary to what many believe, a primer that dries extremely hard is not ideal for exterior surfaces. Wood expands and contracts with heat, cold and moisture. A high quality latex primer, topped with a high quality exterior latex paint will give you the best results. It allows for flexibility but offers great protection. Some prefer an oil/alkyd based primer. This is fine as long as it's a slow drying primer. The quick drying primers have hardeners in them that don't flex well. Be sure to remove any loose and flaking paint before you prime them. There are places where you can cut corners with painting. I wouldn't do it on exterior paint. One last thing to be aware of- be sure it's not lead paint you're working with. That changes everything.

You need to buy a special paint for metal with special additives that prevent rust. Make sure to also buy a primer that is compatible with the paint you have selected. I found you some great instructions that should help you out.

• Wipe the wrought-iron bed frames with a rag that was dipped in mineral spirits. That will help you to remove all traces of oil and grease from the frames.

• Scrape rusty areas with a putty knife or scraping tool. Remove all loose rust scale. Rub the surface with steel wool, too.

• Apply an oil-based primer. The primer needs to be designed for use on metal surfaces such as wrought iron. Roll on the primer with a small roller. Spread the primer with a paintbrush. Cover the whole surface with one coat of primer.

• Paint the bed frames with a finish paint that has a rust inhibitor within 24 hours of priming them. That will help the primer and paint bond.

• Roll on the paint in the same way you applied the primer. Use a paintbrush to make smooth, sweeping strokes to distribute the paint. Switch to a paintbrush with synthetic bristles if you decide to use a water-based paint.

Read more: How to Paint Wrought Iron Bed Frames ' eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_7794293_paint-wrought-iron-bed-frames.html#ixzz232Q8GYhr

It depends on 3 things.
What you are painting.
Whether you are applying latex, oil-base, or primer.
What size TIP you are using.
We use spray equipment and use size 17 and 19 for latex, and 11 for oil.
Double-check the size that came with your gun and look at tips at Home Depot.
Old tips wallow out and the spray pattern is irregular/uneven and the gun blows out too much paint and our material costs go up.

The manual says "dilute correspondingly"
http://www.airless.com.au/Airless%20Sprayer.pdf
Let's say you are spraying oil-base stain: I would NOT dillute this material.
Oil-base primer: 1 thinner to 4 paint
Latex primer: use a roller and brush so you have a good undercoat for the paint.
Oil-base paint: I would add 1/8 thinner with 1 paint, and be careful of runs
Latex stain: try 1 water to 4 stain
Cheap interior flat latex: 1 water to 4 paint
Latex semi-gloss interior: 1-1/8 to 4 paint and apply very thin coats and let dry between coats.
Cheap exterior flat latex: 1+ to 4 paint, and add more or less water as needed
Good exterior latex paint: use a roller and brush because the purpose of latex exterior pain is to apply heavy protective coat over outdoor materials ... dilluted exterior latex will not give sun and mildew protection.
We use heavy spray equipment and apply exterior latex straight form the can. It's the only way to give lasting job, unless you're doing a temporary playhouse.

The key to successful spraying is to strain your paint to get out the lump and clogs - BEFORE putting paint into the gun.
We always strain the paint unless it's a freshly opened can.
If can was opened yesterday, we strain it.
That because paint gets a dry film that will clog the sprayer.

First you need to mix your material, so you need a couple buckets.
Pour the paint and thinning material in 1 bucket, and then to mix, pour back and forth between two or three buckets. This action will mix the paint thoroughly and save you an hour of rotating a paint stir stick.
Next, you need to strain the paint.
Wash out a 5-gallon bucket.
Buy 5 gallon strainer that fits into bucket.
Pour material into bucket with strainer, lift strainer up and then grab end of strainer and squeeze out all the paint.
Immediately put lid over paint so no drying film will form.
Wash out strainer.
You're ready to put paint in spray gun.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
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Knowing how to paint a Jeep in camo patterns means you can hide your Jeep in the woods, marshy areas or in open fields without it being easily seen. Using Mossy Oak's Shadow Grass pattern, paint your Jeep with natural-looking shadows and grass blades. The 3-D look of this pattern allows you to easily hide your Jeep from water fowl, doves, deer and big game.

Things You'll Need:

• Sandpaper (120 and 800 grit)
• Wax and grease remover
• Lint-free towel
• Camo stencil
• Masking tape
• Masking paper
• Respirator mask
• Automotive primer
• Automotive paint (black, gray, light tan and brown)
• Automotive clear coat

1. Sand the surface of the Jeep with 120-grit sandpaper until the surface is dull. You can use a dual-action sander for this step to speed the process. This removes the top clear coat and prepares the surface for primer. Primer won't stick to a shiny surface.
   
2. Mask off areas of the Jeep that won't be painted, such as the windows, tires and passenger area of the Jeep. Wipe the surface with wax and grease remover and a lint-free towel.
   
3. Spray primer on the Jeep in three thin coats. Allow each coat to dry completely. Once the primer is dry, use 800-grit sandpaper to sand the top layer of primer until smooth. This leaves a smooth surface for the paint. Wipe again with wax and grease remover and a lint-free towel.
   
4. Paint a thin base coat of gray on the Jeep. Cover all of the primered areas on the Jeep so that no primer can be seen. Allow the paint to dry.
   
5. Go over the Jeep with brown paint, spraying small areas of brown paint in no particular pattern. The finished effect should look like the Jeep is equally painted gray and tan. Hold the first stencil against the Jeep and use black paint to fill it in. Move the stencil over and paint again. Start at the front of the Jeep and work towards the rear.
   
6. Move on to the next stencil and use light tan paint to spray the grass pattern. The grass should start at the bottom of the Jeep and reach up towards the top. For longer grass, don't spray the tops of the grass but instead move the pattern up, spray the stems longer and then spray the tops, making the grass stems long. Repeat this around the Jeep and across the hood. Go back over the grass stems with black paint, lightly spraying a few of the stems to give them a shadow look.
   
7. Finish by spraying three coats of clear coat paint onto the painted areas of the Jeep. This protects the paint from UV rays and keep the camo pattern looking good.
   

Tips & Warnings

• Paint is best applied using a paint spray gun and air compressor, but canned spray paint will work.
• Never sand or spray primer or paint without using a painter's respirator mask.

Resources: Customice Camo Stencils

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I really hope help you with this (remember rated this help) Good luck.

Use a light sand paper first this will ruff the surface a little then wipe it down getting all dust off then primer it then apply your finish coat of black be sure to use the same name brands of paint and primer.