I have a sony xplod 1000 watt amp, Worked perfect for a month, All of a sudden my subs stop working, But the power light on the amp is always still on. every great while my subs will work again, sometimes for 10 min sometimes for thirty seconds then they stop working again. then back on, off, on. Exc. but the power light is always on and green.

if the wiring to the sub is correct, then you have something wrong with the amp itself... something is power surging to the subs which is causing them to blow

You only gave us the model of the amp so I will make an assumption that your 12" subs are the Sony XS-GTX120LW. First, they cannot hold 1200 watts a piece. They are meant to be powered with 350 watts RMS. They will hold 1200 watts peak. That means that 1200 watts for a few seconds will be ok. Past that and kiss them goodbye!

Next you indicated that bridged the amp. Since the subs are both 4 ohm single voice coils did you wire them in series or parallel?

It sounds to me like you wired them in parallel resulting in the amp seeing a 2 ohm load. The amp you referenced is only stable when bridged at 4 ohms.

Has the amp begun working again once it cooled down? If not you could have fried the outputs by having the resistance too low.

you can blow a sub out when they are overpowered as well as underpowered. Distortion is the main reason thing go out. distortion occurs when you have the volume n the head unit up all the way and the gains on the amp are up all the way. always make sure the bass plays clear and you should be okay

hey i have a sony explod 1000 watt amp from walmart! um and i have a mofo 152 3000 watt sub how would i wire it!

Pump the brakes!
You need to know the RMS power rating of the sub you are powering.
Dont exceed the RMS power rating of the sub by more than 25%.
If you see a peak power rating on either the sub or the amp, ignor it, means nothing. Always compare RMS ratings.
Example: a Sony 12" Xplod sub, boasting 1200 watts, will only handle, 350 watts RMS, so the amp you choose to power the sub should be 350 watts RMS as well, and should not exceed more than 25% of the RMS power handling (487.5 watts).
Bottom line, know your RMS numbers, not Peak.
Byron
www.distinctbeat.com

should do easily though you may need to employ the use of a cross over just incase something goes pop and burns you're car out when you park it after you've been hammering the subs.

yes it will work, but it will only put out the power to the sub that the amp allows, ie : 100 watt amp puts out 100 wats.
you can also try reconfigering your wire to your subs, if your amp is 1ohm stable and your subs you can come off the amp with a bridge and run subs in series or parralell, this will dramaticly improve the bass

Sony audio products are not worth the buck, you will be facing worst problems in the future, my advice is just to change the amps. It is causing the problem, it cant handle frequencies when volume is turned up. and it may say 1000 watts but actually this is the peak rating your amp can handle thus meaning that it couldnt handle constant high volume usage, try crunch, kicker or hifonics amp, and look at the RMS rating on the amps when shoping.

fuses

Almost all after market amps use 12v at very very low amperage to trigger the amp on. A temporary jumper from the battery plus terminal on the amp AFTER the battery and ground wires are attached should cause the amp to turn on. I would check to see if you have attached your speaker load correctly ESPECIALLY if you are bridging. Most of the blown amps that come into my shop are due to incorrect bridging loads from the speakers. Note that a 4ohm load bridged across both outputs of an amp will deliver a 2ohm load to each of the channels. When you parallel wire two 4ohm speakers together and then attached them to a bridged amp you will be putting a 1 (one) ohm load to each channel of the amp. Please don't make this mistake. It will fry your amp in about a month. Hope this helps. Good luck.