Dryer switch wiring

Ten it is not the correct replacement part. Inquire where you bought the part. They may have gotten it wrong. don-ohio (:^)

It sounds like the hi-limit thermostat. For your dryer that would be Frigidaire part number 5303281113 shown below. The part is located behind the drum. You will need to take the back off of the unit to access the part. Sears carries the part.

1. Take the back cover off of the dryer
2. locate the part
3. unplug one of the two wires from the old part
4. plug that wire into the same post on the new part
5. unplug the remaining wire from the old part
6. plug the other wire into the new part
7. unfasten and remove the old thermostat (with no wires)
8. fasten the new part (with wires) into the old parts place
9. run the dryer to see if the fix works
10. replace the back cover on the dryer.

Steps 3 through 6 above insures that you get the two wires installed correctly.

The most common cause of an ELECTRIC dryer that will not turn on, is a blown thermal fuse or bad power cord. If the voltage at the wall receptacle is correct (220-240VAC), check the voltage again at the terminal block where it connects to the dryer. Make sure you UNPLUG the dryer and remove the the small access cover where the power cord is installed. Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the RED and BLACK terminals for the same voltage reading. If good, the problem is INTERNAL to the dryer. If bad, you need to replace your power cord.

NOTE: If the wires are not color coded, the two HOT leads are the LEFT and RIGHT wires. The center wire will be NEUTRAL or GROUND.

If the problem is internal, and if the model number is correct, the thermal fuse can be accessed by following these steps:

1. UNPLUG dryer. Dangerous voltage is still present inside a dryer even with the unit turned off.

2. Turn the dryer around so you can access the rear panel. Remove the dryer exhaust vent hose.

3. Remove the rear panel of the dryer and set aside.

The thermal fuse is a small plastic looking component with two wires attached on the blower fan housing on the lower LEFT-hand side of the dryer. Disconnect the wires before taking any resistance checks. If the fuse is good, it should read something close to zero ohms. If bad, you will read an infinite reading. These fuses DO NOT reset and must be replaced if bad.

Another cause of a dryer that will not turn on, is a broken door switch. An easy method to test the switch is to open the door and press by hand. If the dryer drum light is working, you should be able to toggle the light on and off. If the switch is found to be defective, it can be raplaced by following these steps:

1. Make sure the dryer is UNPLUGGED.

2. Remove the dryer lint screen.

3. Locate the two screws under the lint screen and remove.

4. With the screws removed, the top panel will not lift up, exposing the dryer door switch.

5. Disconnect the door switch connector plug using a small flat blade screwdriver to release the connector tabs.

6. Remove the defective switch by loosening any screws holding it in place and re-install a replacement.

Make sure the connector plug is reconnected and lower the top panel back in place. Test operate by plugging the dryer back and turning the dryer on. If op tested okay, reinstall top panel screws.

Replacement parts can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

All these sites are reputable and have competitive pricing, so shop and compare. The first three sites listed also have helpful exploded view parts illustrations that you can use to locate and properly identify any parts you may need. If the model number is correct, the part number you may need are as follows:

Thermal Fuse - part number 3392519, listed as item 23 under the "Bulkhead Parts" listing.

Door Switch - part number 3406105, listed as item 10 under the "Cabinet Parts" listing.

The following link can give you some added advice on how to troubleshoot most common electric dryer problems:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

If you have any questions about these repairs, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

The most common cause of an ELECTRIC dryer that will not turn on, is a blown thermal fuse or bad power cord. If the voltage at the wall receptacle is correct (220-240VAC), check the voltage again at the terminal block where it connects to the dryer. Make sure you UNPLUG the dryer and remove the the small access cover where the power cord is installed. Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the RED and BLACK terminals for the same voltage reading. If good, the problem is INTERNAL to the dryer. If bad, you need to replace your power cord.

NOTE: If the wires are not color coded, the two HOT leads are the LEFT and RIGHT wires. The center wire will be NEUTRAL or GROUND.

If the problem is internal, and if the model number is correct, the thermal fuse can be accessed by following these steps:

1. UNPLUG dryer. Dangerous voltage is still present inside a dryer even with the unit turned off.

2. Turn the dryer around so you can access the rear panel. Remove the dryer exhaust vent hose.

3. Remove the rear panel of the dryer and set aside.

The thermal fuse is a small plastic looking component with two wires attached on the blower fan housing on the lower LEFT-hand side of the dryer. Disconnect the wires before taking any resistance checks. If the fuse is good, it should read something close to zero ohms. If bad, you will read an infinite reading. These fuses DO NOT reset and must be replaced if bad.

Another cause of a dryer that will not turn on, is a broken door switch. An easy method to test the switch is to open the door and press by hand. If the dryer drum light is working, you should be able to toggle the light on and off. If the switch is found to be defective, it can be raplaced by following these steps:

1. Make sure the dryer is UNPLUGGED.

2. Remove the dryer lint screen.

3. Locate the two screws under the lint screen and remove.

4. With the screws removed, the top panel will not lift up, exposing the dryer door switch.

5. Disconnect the door switch connector plug using a small flat blade screwdriver to release the connector tabs.

6. Remove the defective switch by loosening any screws holding it in place and re-install a replacement.

Make sure the connector plug is reconnected and lower the top panel back in place. Test operate by plugging the dryer back and turning the dryer on. If op tested okay, reinstall top panel screws.

Replacement parts can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

All these sites are reputable and have competitive pricing, so shop and compare. The first three sites listed also have helpful exploded view parts illustrations that you can use to locate and properly identify any parts you may need. If the model number is correct, the part number you may need are as follows:

Thermal Fuse - part number 3392519, listed as item 23 under the "Bulkhead Parts" listing.

Door Switch - part number 3406105, listed as item 10 under the "Cabinet Parts" listing.

The following link can give you some added advice on how to troubleshoot most common electric dryer problems:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

If you have any questions about these repairs, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

The problem is definitely not the motor but rather the motor relay or the electronic control. Either the motor relay is not working to close the motor circuit or the electronic control is not powering up the motor relay to serve its function.

The motor relay and the heater relay are identical and can be used interchangeably. The heater relay may be used in place of the motor relay if the dryer heats up when the start switch is held on. It indicates that the heater relay is working.

Disconnect power to the dryer then pull the end cap trims off then remove the control panel securing screws. Once the screws are removed, rotate the control panel up to the rear of the dryer.



Disconnect the wires and remove the relays then put each in the place of the other. Refer to the component layout diagram for the location of the relays.




Reconnect the wires then rotate the control panel down back into position then plug the dryer in and start it. The dryer should start and continue to run when the start switch is released since the working heater relay is used but will not heat up indicating that the motor relay is not working. Otherwise the fault is in the electronic control.

Replace the faulty component and it should address the problem. The relay (heater/motor) is part number 3405281 and the electronic control is part number W10116565.

Squeeze on the electronic control mounting bracket as shown then pull the board up to remove.


Insert the new control board and gently press it down into position. Transfer the wires from the old board to the new board one at a time.


Simply unscrew the relay to be replaced then secure the new one into position and transfer the wires.

Rotate the control panel down and secure it back into position to complete the repair.

Hi...dawn0736
Dryer timer switches are normally non repairable. You will have to replace the timer switch.
Be sure if you decide to do the work yourself, to get the correct timer switch, and remove one wire at a time from the old one and connect it to the new one.
This can be a daunting task for a novice if you do not do it this way.
I will include these two websites for parts and further help:
http://www.partselect.com/
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/index.aspx
Both also have chat assistance 24/7.
Good luck,
I hope this helps

Sounds to me like you have a faulty timer switch.
If you decide to replace it yourself, First unplug the dryer from the electric and be sure to get the same switch, and I will also recommend that you remove and replace one wire at a time on the switch as this can be a real problem if you mix up your wires.
Good luck,
I hope this helps

On the new timer , you have 2 wires comming of the timer motor . The blue wire should go to one of these terminals on the timer itself . The place where there is ONLY a timer motor wire going to , is where it should go .

If you push the knob to the left and it makes a good contact and starts the machine, then replace the timer switch. Write down the Name and Model Number of the machine (usually on or below the door)
take it to a local appliance shop and order a new part. When you recieve the new part UNPLUG the machine and remove the three screws from of the top of the electrical compartment and gently pull o the front open, there is only one plug attached to the switch, remove it and dislodge the old switch, then snap the new switch in place and replace the plug, close the compartment and replace the three screws, plug in the dryer, and try it.

unlikely to be anything to do with door switch which is only 2-4 wires. humidity is sensed by a brush rubbing on the drum. take lid off and check spring loaded brush is actually rubbing correctly on the drum. if this is ok then fault is in module which senses output of the brush