I have a 12 w7 it damage from shipping all the surface is rip can it be fixed

Use drywall mudd. Its cheap, easy to apply and sands to a smooth surface.
https://www.thisoldhouse.com/how-to/how-to-finish-drywall

You have two ways to handle that.
First: (Just saying- if there is a water ''damage'' YOU CAN'T SEE IT.) So if you think you are professional in theese stuff you can take a screwdriver, open the camera and clean its parts.

Second: Take that to a real professional to fix it. (The minus is that you have to pay) And here we go:)

I noticed your post after I just posted the same problem (you worded it better). Did any magic answer other than returning the saw (presumably damaged in shipping) ever materialize?

first of all the coil might have overheated and slightly made the voice coil go out of round or one of the biggest problems that jl has with their w6 AND w7's is that the magnet shifts because of the glue they use if its not annoying just keep using it or you can contact jl which by the way they charge about 250 to recone it plus at least 50 to ship and i dont think they pay for shipping to send it back you pay that also

JL has good customer service, and usually you can get a drop-in replacement core/coil/former/spider. Call/e-mail the techsupport listed on their website, or contact your local dealer for replacement parts/service.

Are your arms big? Good, cause that is how you do it. With a lot of muscle. They have too many power tools out there now to make it easier. But if you want to do it the old way, you will need a handful of planes, not just one block plane. You need a couple of jack planes, smoothing plane, and scraper plane, to get a nice surface, the jack plane, 12 -14 inches long will go right over the bumps and flatten those edges right out, Keep it square to the edge. Look by eye and use a square to check. Your end grain can be done with your block plane, get it in a vise and take little cuts. Your surface is the tough one, it takes a sharp iron and a steady hand to surface a board, some woods don't like being surfaced, some do. Again, start out with the scrub plane, 8-12 inches, and run it against the grain to smooth, then the jack plane with the grain to flatten, then the scraper to finish. Rip saws are hard to come by, the teeth are at a 90 degrees to the saw. and wide, and you need big arms. The japanese saws have both edges on their saws and they work great. But you can't beat an electric planer. Hope this helps.

There are repair kits to fix this. One place you might want to check out is www.newfoam.com

The little rip on the foam surround can be repaired easily with some pure silcone from a harware store. Make sure it's pure silicone, because the silicone mixtures may deteriorate the foam prematurely. Also, all you're really doing is plugging the hole that the rip makes so that air doesn't leak out and further damage the surround and also affect your sub's performance. You'll need to apply a thin to moderate coat of silicone to the rip, and make sure that some gets into the rip. Do NOT use globs or big lumps. You should apply some silicone to your finger, and carefully apply it to the area. Try not to get too much on the inside/backside of the rip. If you'd rather just get a replacement sub, you should be able to find the raw driver on eBay or at a local MTX dealer.

Hi there,

Hold the Play Button for 12 seconds, it'll automatically reset.

Good Luck!!

make sure all the connections are in good shape. Look for a broken or slightly burnt connector.
A pinched wire may be the problem.
And the over heat thermistor may have blown.
Its a fuser sensing code. You may have to replace the fuser itself.