You answer to my resent problem on night shots...

A 500 mm mirror lens is a fully manual lens (manual focus no aperture change) using a T mount adapter to your specific camera. The T mount costs some $15. It depends on your camera how to turn off the auto focus and go to aperture priority mode. The aperture on a mirror lens is set, usually at F8, so the shutter is the only item that can be adjusted to get a correct exposure. A digital camera (set in adjustable ASA setting) can change it's ASA to help with getting a correct exposure. Manual for digital camera are usually on the companies' web site.

No. You only need to do that when using any exposure modes where the camera needs to take full control of the aperture setting for you (basically everything except full manual metering and aperture priority metering). The idea is that by setting the lens to the minimum f-number (aperture) the camera can then automatically set the actual aperture required by the exposure meter and exposure program to anything between maximum aperture (lowest f-number) and the f22 set on the lens.

Aperture settings are independent of autofocus on all SLR cameras. If you're new to SLR photography then I highly recommend the latest (2009) edition of John Hedgecoe's New Manual of Photography. The link is just to show you the book and not an endorsement of the featured supplier; I'm sure that you'll want to make your own buying choices.

I hope this has helped, if so please return the favour by taking a moment to rate my answer. If not then please explain your problem in more detail and I'll be happy to offer further assistance.

Not sure what you are really asking here as it would depend on the settings you have selected to use.

For instance if your ISO ) ASA film speed) is set to 64 and you have an aperture priority setting of say 6 then the shutter will go clllllllllickkkkk ( be slow say 1/30th of a second. As opposed to say ISO of 200 and an aperture of 16 the camera will go cliick now if you select ISO 400 and aperture of 16 the camera will clk This is the "sports type setting for fast moving objects ) I am presuming daylight average light for the above
after 4pm or in some shade areas shutter speed can also be delayed and the picture result is blurred due to camera shake at low speeds.
then u need a tripod

Now what have you selected as an amateur snapshot artist?
Day night settings
AUTO
ISO 100 + ........
portratit
landscape
night

Any of these settings on auto will also be delayed depending on ISO and the amount of ambiant light available to the camera. So you need to get to know your cameraq by practice

Some settings ( see manual) suggest using shutter priority to get good pics
Others suggest aperture priority.

It might be better for you to get a basic digital photography book to help you understand and compose good pics ( Digital photography for dummies ( or DP basics)


Hers a tip worth remembering with apertures

Smaller the number larger the hole(aperture)
Larger the number smaller the aperture

larger hole for lower light
smaller hole for very bright light

so experiment with aperture to be familiar on what to select for the degree of light then test different ISO speeds and keep notes.

When you use zoom increase the EV by 1+ and see what the difference is to standard distance

All great fun and learning and now cheaper because you dont have to pay for film or development to see what creative pics you have made!

So perhaps the camera does not have a problem, it just has you, and

you need to bond so Good Luck and ,many happy snappy hours of fun


Please rate my help++++Thanks for using FIXYA

hi

try the Digital Photography School website they have almost the perfect solution the beach photography problems

http://digital-photography-school.com/?s=beach

hope this helped
cheers, pls rate it

Hello, thanks for the compliments!

First, yes, the Digital Rebel series of cameras (my first DSLR was the first Digital Rebel, the 300D model) have a small sensor than a "full frame" sensor, which results in a "multiplicationfactor" or "crop factor" of .6. This is good for telephoto shots (yourtelephoto lens ends up acting like a "longer" and more expensive lens) but bad for wideangle shots.

For Macro, you need very bright light to have enough light to use a small fstop for needed DoF because even at the smallest fstop (largest number) your DoF will still be very small. This typically means you need to use a strobe. The strobe will help freeze the image so you can still shoot hand-held. For hand-held use look for a "ring strobe" that fits around your lens and lights the item in front of your lens.

Focusing is a very tricky matter when you are shooting in macro. Usually you go to manual focus, set the lens to manually focus at either infinity or the closest distance, then you "focus" using the zoom, rather than the focus ring.

For night shots, you need to change to manual exposure and adjust to get the exposure you desire. Your camera's light meter doesn't know how bright or dark the thing you are viewing is - to the light meter everything you point it at is supposed to be exposed to medium gray - an average value. It can't know that you want a dark shot to stay dark.

Here's how I do it. First, I bump up the ISO so I can take a fast shot, and I set the camera to AV mode. Then I set the lens to the widest aperture (smallest number). I let the camera set the shutter speed as I take this test shot, and look at the exposure. Then I determine if I want the shot darker and if so how much. Now I switch to manual mode - same aperture and shutter as the previous shot, and adjust the shutter speed faster to produce a darker image. When I have the right settings, then I adjust the ISO and as I adjust the ISO I have to compensate with the shutter. E.g. if I have a good exposure at ISO 1600 @ f2.8 @ 1/30, to drop to ISO 100 means I have to slow the shutter to 1/2 second. Now, I usually also want a smaller aperture (larger number). To go from ISO 100 @ f2/8 @ 1/2 second to f/16 is 6 stops, which takes the time needed from 1/2 second to 15 seconds. Obviously this means the camera needs to be on a tripod.

I can help more if you can give me a link to some of the photos you have taken so far so I can see what you are shooting, and make suggestions for how I would approach the same subject and situation.

Hey matty reps,
You are attempting one of the most challenging types of photography there is, because you are combing nighttime photography and action photography. If you want to stop the action you normally would be using the highest shutter speed possible, but since you are trying to take nighttime action photographs I would rely on a flash since the flash duration in essence becomes your shutter speed. I would definitely use a hotshoe mounted flash because the built in flash will most likely not be powerful enough for your needs. I would have the camera set to aperture priority so I could control the depth of field, because the smaller the aperture the larger depth of field you will have and the less likely your subject will be out of focus. If you are attempting natural light nighttime action photography you will definitely need a very fast film speed such as 3200 speed film which will provide significant loss of image quality. You will also need a very fast lens meaning a lens with an aperture of at least f2.8 or larger, and your camera in this scenario should be set to shutter priority so you can set the camera to the fastest shutter speed possible but this will present focusing issues. In both scenarios I would have the AF system set to continuous so the camera doesn't require you to achieve focus to be able to trip the shutter. As in all challenging photography situations more photos are better than less, because you should have more failed photos than successful. I hope this helps!

Sincerely,
Allan
Go Ahead. Use Us.

You'll need to use your camera in manual mode.

If you want the subject sharp, but the background blurred, use a large aperture and high speed exposure. This will reduce the focal length.

Remember that a large apertures are often used for night shots because they allow more light through the lense. A fast exposure will prevent the shot from being over exposed if you are taking it in daylight.

Flash photography is not recommended for the effect you are after.

You might try overriding the white balance by setting it for fluorescent. Those bulbs are the usual cause of the green hue

I've played around with the 'unsharp mask' filter in Photoshop CS, and I must tell you the results were amazing. I guess I should have mentioned that I'm very new to digital photography and I'm learning new things every day. I've had my FZ10 for 10 days now, and same goes for PS. By the way, do you know where could I find a good PS tutorial? The PS copy that I have came from my university's software licence department, with no manual. I know it is an amazing piece of software, and I want to learn.