The top oven does not work: once Iset the bake/broil temp. the main control board clicks but the temp. does not change: it stays @ 100 F. I noticed that the ignitor is not coming on. I troubleshooted the main board' output volts to dual valve - upper and lower bake - and upper broil - and it seems fine, there is voltage across to the ignitor too. I ohmmed the ignitor and it has "some" resistance ( I do not know what is the exact value), so then I replaced the upper ignitor and still the top oven/new ignitor do not work. At this point I am thinking to check the 'DUAL VALVE" that connects the ignitors. Any suggestions? Thanks for your help.
Check the valves to see if there is any gas discharge. If there isnt, it could be a blockage in the tubing or a defective valve..
The thermostate which is responsible for cutting of temperature when it reaches preset temperature on the oven. Since ignitors are fine.
Thermostate sends signal about the present status of temerature to igniotor to work or whatever way it is required.
First you check the thermostat
If the oven is wired properly and correct polarity on the outlet, here is the power flow.
Power will come from the control board relay, through the ignitor, then goes to ground through the dual valve.
The resistance of the ignitor causes it to heat up, the hotter it gets the more power goes to the valve. When the amp draw gets to about 3.2 amps there is enough power for the valve to open and let the gas into the burner.
It is unusual for both the bake and broil functions to fail at the same time. They are separate circuits. The dual valve is actually 2 separate coils inside one housing.
If you have continuity through the ignitors and continuity through the valve coils, check the wiring from the valve to ground. These should be the white wires that come from the valve and connected together before going on to the main neutral connection.
Let me know what you find.
Thanks, Mike
forza,
I don't know what the resistance should be. I don't remember Maytag listing resistance specs in their tech sheets for anything, but the circuit is pretty simple. If you have power to the ignitor, a good ignitor, a complete circuit through the coil, and a good path to neutral, the ignitor should glow.
A word of advice, do not try to put 120v to the valve to check it. The resistance of the ignitor cuts the voltage to the coil and if you put full 120v to it, it could burn out the coil. I found this out by experience.
If you don't have the wiring diagram for the stove, you can go to sears.com, click on parts, enter the complete model number and view a parts breakdown and wiring information. You can also get schematics from servicematters.com. Click on the Maytag link and download the library and you can search by model number.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks, Mike
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Sounds like a sensor prob
There should be a temperature sensor controlling the flow of gas as a safety measure somewhere, like in a gas water heater. It would try to fire the starter and if it gets no flame it will kill the gas completely.
Measure the resistance on the valve if you have continuity its good if not replace it
id say your thinking is pretty much right on there is no resistance value for the valves your looking for continuity now other than that you have to look for amps and current draw on the valves im assuming you have the tech sheet if not e mail the model number to me ill send you one [email protected] and im a real appliance repair tech not computers cell phones playstations or any of that junk
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The top oven does not work: once Iset the bake/broil temp. the main control board clicks but the temp. does not change: it stays @ 100 F. I noticed that the ignitor is not coming on. I troubleshooted the main board' output volts to dual valve - upper and lower bake - and upper broil - and it seems fine, there is voltage across to the ignitor too. I ohmmed the ignitor and it has "some" resistance ( I do not know what is the exact value), so then I replaced the upper ignitor and still the top oven/new ignitor do not work. At this point I am thinking to check the 'DUAL VALVE" that connects the ignitors. Any suggestions? Thanks for your help.
I did not check the continuity through the dual valve coils yet, but assuming those coils are both ok ( I don't know their specified resistance values..) then if the ignitor does not come on at all I have to believe that it is either a broken white (neutral) wire between the valve' coil and the neutral terminal, or loose connection at the neutral terminal. Apparently I did not see anything that looks like a " broken " wire...
Thanks Mike, I am aware about not to try to supply 120V directly to the valves' coils and I do have the schematics. Thank you again for your support.
new spark igniter will not spark
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