My hobart hgc-5 convection oven heats intermittenly. Heat goes on then off. I replaced the thermostat, ignition wire and ignition board. Still only heating intermittenly. What do I do?

The issue you're experiencing with your Bosch convection microwave not heating in convection mode could be caused by a few different things. Here are a few things to check:

1. Check the settings: Make sure that the microwave is set to convection mode and that the temperature and time settings are correct.
2. Check the element: The bottom heating element is responsible for providing heat during convection mode. Make sure that the element is not damaged or burnt out. You can visually inspect it, if it is damaged it will need to be replaced.
3. Check the fan: The fan is responsible for circulating hot air during convection mode. Make sure that the fan is not blocked or damaged. If it is, it will need to be replaced.
4. Check the control board: The control board is responsible for controlling the functions of the microwave. A malfunctioning control board could prevent the microwave from heating in convection mode.
5. Check for a blown thermal fuse: A thermal fuse is a safety device that cuts off power to the oven if it overheats. If the thermal fuse is blown, it will need to be replaced.
6. Check for a blown thermal cut-off: A thermal cut-off is a device that cuts off power to the oven if it overheats. If the thermal cut-off is blown, it will need to be replaced.

first out put voltages measures,when output voltages ok , then see the control circuit.after tnat every thing ok. replace heating elements.

Could be set on Celsius instead of Fahrenheit

Nothing Works, or the Oven / Range / Stovetop Works Only At Certain Times:

1.Home breaker flipped or the fuse blown?Possibly an electrical surge has flipped the breaker. Check your breaker or fuse box and replace or reset as necessary.
2.Power cord plugged in?Grab the plug and wiggle to determine a good connection.
3.Power cord damage?Damaged rubber with wires showing through or the wire is being pinched can cause issues. Electrical tape is acceptable for covering damaged wires.
4.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.

If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.

THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control.


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced.

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.

This tutorial will show you how to check your Smeg element and how to replace your Smeg cooker element.
Here are the 3 main faults to look for in your oven or cooker that is not heating

1. Your oven will not work until the clock/timer has been re-set after replacing an oven element or tripping the electrical supply. Consult your Smeg manual.
2. If your Oven is not getting hot or heating up it could be a faulty element, if the fan in the oven is running and the thermostat light is on, this will lead us to believe that the element has gone faulty. With grills the thermostat light should come on there should be heat, if not then this could be the grill element or the thermostat.
3. When you turn the oven on, the household electrical supply trips on the Rcd (this is the earth trip in the fuse board sometimes called the breaker tripping) your fan oven element has gone to earth and needs replacing.

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Hello - Sounds like the element or the control board to the element is not communicating correctly. I would have a professional diagnose the element first. You may only need to replace it. Otherwise it could be the control board not allowing the element to heat up properly, a faulty mechanical thermostat or an oven sensor.

It generally is the IR Element that has gone bad. Look for burned wiring where the IR Element enters the oven cavity. Check for continuity through the IR Element.

1. Check that the blower motor is moving air.
o Blower motor is not moving air: Check blower motor assembly
and verify motor is stalled. Unplug oven and correct obstruction or
replace motor. (For access to motor shaft, remove top panel.)
o Blower motor is moving air: Verify high-limit thermostat is
not tripped. See the high-limit thermostat information below.
High-Limit Thermostat:
o Thermostat tripped: Reset and determine why the thermostat
tripped (See Figure 38, Item 114). Look for excess build up of
grease inside the oven or any other source for a fire.
o Thermostat is not tripped: Check main convection heater.
1. Convection heater is defective: Unplug oven and replace the
convection heater and verify the K4 SSR (Figure 37) is not
shorted across output.
2. Convection heater OK: Check the K4 SSR.
o K4 defective: Unplug oven and replace.
o K4 OK: Unplug oven and verify all wiring. Verify P1 voltage on
I/O board is 5.0VDC (+/- 0.02) -

Gas does not ignite. No spark. No Ignition light is not ON.
1. Shorted electrode on igniter/flame sense.
2. Igniter cable (high voltage) OPEN.
3. Heat relay malfunction.
4. Centrifugal switch in blower motor inoperative.
5. Transformer inoperative.
6. High limit thermostat open.
7. Interconnecting wiring malfunction.
8. Ignition module malfunction.

Sparks but gas does not ignite.

1. Gas solenoid valve off or inoperative.
2. Manual gas valve closed.
3. Gas supply OFF or insufficient gas pressure.
4. Inerconnecting wiring malfunction.
5. Igniton module malfunction.

This tutorial will show you how to check your Smeg element and how to replace your Smeg cooker element.
Here are the 3 main faults to look for in your oven or cooker that is not heating

1. Your oven will not work until the clock/timer has been re-set after replacing an oven element or tripping the electrical supply. Consult your Smeg manual.
2. If you're Oven is not getting hot or heating up it could be a faulty element, if the fan in the oven is running and the thermostat light is on, this will lead us to believe that the element has gone faulty. With grills the thermostat light should come on there should be heat, if not then this could be the grill element or the thermostat.
3. When you turn the oven on, the household electrical supply trips on the Rcd (this is the earth trip in the fuse board sometimes called the breaker tripping) your fan oven element has gone to earth and needs replacing.

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this could be due to more than one cause selector switch faulty elements faulty. however this would mean both elements gone - there is one at the top and one at the bottom also worth while looking at the wiring to the convection elements. does the thermostat neon come on when convection is selected?