Tankless heater says standby and nothing happens

first time heard of a tankless that is round

If tankless computer is less than 5 years old, then call Rheem for local technician qualified to work on this type of computer that heats water.

If tankless is older than 5 years, then replace with tank-type electric water heater for $285 from Lowes.

Avoid Rheem, Richmond, Palmoa, GE water heating products since this company does not post service manuals.

Choose AO Smith, American, State, craftmaster, Whirlpool etc.

Gene
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If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Call a qualified service tech immediately.
Gas explosion indicates dirty combustion parts, and gas is not fully igniting when tankless turns on the gas. So gas builds up and then explodes causing serious damage to tankless, and serious risk to homeowner.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

You might have crossover problem caused by bad faucet cartridge.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Crossover.html

The green standby light should come on when 240Volt power is applied. Page 6 manual.
Both red lights should come on when tankless is activated. Page 6 manual

RTE 13 requires 60 amp breaker and 6 gauge wire
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Tankless-electric-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Rheem-TanklessElectricUC_AP15447.pdf

Factory temperature setting is usually default 120 degrees.
Adjust temps page 11 manual
Thermostat calibration is always approximate.
120 degrees is not hot enough to burn the skin.
Exceptionally cold incoming water temperature can cause tankless not to heat enough hot water: install tempering tank to preheat water to room temperature.
Tankless cannot be exposed to more than 11 grains hardness in water. Delime tankless yearly, clean water filter monthly, do not install low-flow restrictions or conserve water since the flow rate must remain high for tankless to activate.
Rheem does not post service manuals for their tankless water heaters.
Call Rheem 800 432-8373

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

the unit should still be under warranty sounds like a sticking solenoid problem

Rheem makes a number of tankless models
http://www.rheem.com/products/tankless_water_heaters/

They make a tankless 95 outdoor series
http://www.rheem.com/product.aspx?id=EBA80FAA-3C0F-411D-AF83-82061C28ED1B

The 95 outdoor series spec sheet says .4 GPM minimum activation and .26 GPM flow to keep burner activated. The colder the incoming water, fewer users can take a shower at once.
http://globalimageserver.com/fetchDocument.aspx?id=ea5f0816-dfd4-4bcf-a605-79945619f5bb
The .4 GPM and .26GPM numbers are fairly typical for tankless units.
These numbers are good when the unit is new.
After a few years the number may be different because the tankless is a high-tech machine with sensors that are susceptible to particulate in the water, and susceptible to perfect-functioning of other parts in the machine.
The outdoor series spec sheet says the tankless is good to minus 30 F.
But remember that's when the unit is new.
Outdoor tankless water heaters have an electric heater that keeps water pipes inside the unit from freezing, as long as electricity is ON.
If electricity goes off, the house stays warm inside for several hours.
But a steel box located outside would get cold immediately without electric heat.
The electric heater adds standby cost to operational expense.
The tankless has a heater, but you still have to protect the incoming and outgoing pipes.
If your incoming water is very cold, the tankless heater may not be able raise the temperature fast enough to give two showers -or- even 1 shower depending on age and efficiency and capacity.
You can add a tempering tank located in naturally warm area that passively pre-heats incoming water before it enters the tankless burner.
It might be best to locate tankless inside the house >> and use direct vent through the wall for both incoming air supply and outgoing vent gas.
If incoming air is taken directly from the living space, then tankless will draw air into the house through cracks and around doors.
A lack of sufficient air, or poor air quality can cause the burner to shut down.

When buying a tankless, read the spec sheets and really ask questions about everything you don't understand.

You need to get a real tankless water heater, I had one of this brand and what a waste of money, when you call the company they do not speak very good English and if you talk to Richard whom is supposedly the VP he is as dumb as a mule.

therma coupling check for lint check fan

it sounds more like the ignitor thats messing up, if you are able to remove it and get a new one that would probobly do it for you