I have a punch 450.4 that with no rca's plugged in or speakers hooked up just a good 4 gauge power wire, 4 gauge ground (about 7 inches long) and a 16 gauge remote wire the power light comes on for a second then protection then the power light then the protection light over & over, i'm stumped. i've triple checked the wiring and hooked a punch 200.2 up to the rca's and speakers the 450.4 was running and its fine. i was only using 2 of the 4 chanells bridged at 4 ohms to 2 8 ohm punch power 12's. what could it be what do the lights going back & forth mean?

Most amps have 3 places where you need to hook up wires to power them. the 1st is a ground wire that at best is 1 foot long and it goes on the ground or negative 12 volt connection then a bolt on the car you may need to sand off the paint for it to work, 2 a RMT or remote wire that is normally in the middle of the power and the ground connections the remote turns the amp on and off so it needs to go to the remote wire on the radio or a ignition spot on the fuse box - turns on with key on and off when you turn the key off , 3 the power wire is hopefully large 4 gauge wire and goes to the + 12 volt plug on the amp this wire has a in line fuse and goes to the battery and to the amp only. RCA wires go from the radio to the amp and are round and just plug in with no screws some factory radios need a conversion kit you can get at walmart for RCA wires. the speaker wires have some sort of mark or line to tell you what to put were like if you put the line on a negative on the amp you need to put the line on the negative on the speaker box to or it will not bass and could hurt your amp. ask me if you need anything else :) and please rate :/

I would suspect if the amp is known to be good, that someplace you have a shorted speaker wire... possibly someplace the insulation is cut through or maybe you have a bad connection with frayed strands shorting out the speaker. Use an ohmmeter to check the resistance between each set of speaker leads and then to ground.

1- you need to provide a fused power wire from battery to amp
2- provide a ground wire from amp to car body or frame (be sure to clean off paint if connected to body)
3- connect your remote wire to your fuse box (16 to 22 gauge wire will be fine)
4- connect a line output converter which will allow you to use rca jacks (one side connects to the speaker wire in your car and the other to your rca jacks)
5- finish by connecting your speaker wires and rca jacks
if helpful please rate 4 thumbs up.

rca cables for audio and a remote wire. just plug the rca cables into the plugs in the back of the deck and the remote wire (i suggest buying a thicker (speaker wire size) gauge wire since it allows you to get more power out of the amp) to the blue remote wire coming from the deck. you will also need an 8 gauge power wire (12 inches to 12 feet depending on where the battery and amp are) and an 8 gauge ground wire (no longer than 24 inches).

check your wiring, is it properly grounded? is your remote positive wired to your ignition's positive line?

make sure you run your power and ground wires opposite of the rca/speaker wires. you tend to pick up alternator noise when all wires are bunched up together. Also, make sure you have a good chasis ground to the amp, and the stereo has also a good ground. good luck

100 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms

200 watts RMS x 2 at 2 ohms

400 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms in bridged mode

stereo or bridged mono output

4-ohm stable in bridged mode

Tri-Way capable

requires 8-gauge power and ground leads — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier

50-250 Hz high-pass/low-pass (12 dB/octave) crossovers

wired remote included for fingertip control of Punch Bass (0-18 dB boost at 45 Hz)

MOSFET power supply and output devices

MEHSA mounting technology increases the heat transfer from the MOSFET output devices to the heat sink, for higher power output, lower operating temperatures, and greater reliability

TOPAZ — noise-killing differential inputs that eliminate 80% of ground loop noise

Trans•ana circuitry keeps preamp voltages low and signal paths simple for outstanding audio quality

NOMAD — advanced protection circuitry for "intelligent" shutdown protection

speaker- and preamp-level inputs

11-1/8"W x 2-3/8"H x 9-7/8"D

Wire your sub in bridged mode (4 ohm mono)
+ to + on amplifier
- to - on amplifier
(using bridging terminals)

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Disconnect all speaker connections and rca cables. Leave power, ground and remote wires intact. Try turning on again. If you still have a protection light your amp is faulty. Hopefully you have warranty. Your amp is clipping.
A thumbs up would be greatly appreciated if this answer is helpful to you.

Well one problem is you might need a smaller amp depending on how many speakers you have, 1200 watts is way overpowering for 300watt max speakers and could possibly blow them and even catch them on fire!!!! But everything else is compatable because all of your epuipment is of a newer products but if you dont have 4 guage wires or anything else make sure you get them heres a list: 4 gauge wires for power and ground, REM wire "blue is the normal color" RCA jacks, A compacitor, fuse for battery to amp to keep system from blowing up, 8 gauge speaker wire or even 12 guage to hook up from the amp to the speakers, That should be the common things you need to have a good thumpin system!!!!

Hi Jon,  you need to hook the Remote wire up to the Radios  Blue remote wire.  The car battery power stays on all the time.  The blue Remote wire watches to see when the radio turns on, and signal the amp to turn on as well.