Whirlpool LSN1000LW Top Load Washer Logo
Posted on Sep 27, 2010
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I have removed the rear panel of my washing machine to replace the drain hose assembly. I now have questions about where some of the plastic clips to route wiring go. (they fell off during panel disassembly) Is there a schematic for my model number that I can look at?

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  • Posted on Sep 27, 2010
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If you enter your model# at the link provided you will be able to pull up diagrams and illustrations. This type of washer is supposed to have the front housing pulled off to gain acess. The link provided will also have a video that walks you thru the correct procedure for Disassembling a whirlpool style washer

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How do I drain water from my finlux washing machine

many finlux machines have an easily removable bottom panel. Once removed there's a pump and drain hose assembly, usually in the front right side. Some have a plug that screws out, others you'll have to remove some hose clamps. It is common for debris like coins, hair clips, paper or what not that plugs the drain. Hopefully this is it, and you'll get a little pocket change.
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Washer not draining

First is machine spinning? machine only drains in spin mode.
If machine not spinning check lid is closed and check lid switch and plastic plunger that operates the switch located on the lid.
If machine is spinning then most likely a blockage on the drain hoses or pump. if there is water in the machine, lower the rear drain hose to low level, if water starts to flow out the hoses are not blocked, more likely a pump failure. To replace pump first drain all water from the machine with drain hose at low level.
Tilt machine back and remove the belt from below.
Remove the front panel.
To gain access and remove front panel insert a knife or thin blade approx. 4" in the from each side in between the front seam on the front panel, this will release the lid clips, lift and hinge back the lid panel, remove the two screws securing the front panel and remove.
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Check pump for blockage and damage to impellor, replace/refit in reverse order.
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GE Profile washing machine, model WPSQ3120T5WW After the last rinse cycle, the tub didn't drain. After looking at some online forums, I was able to drain the tub by removing the hose. I checked the...

Disconnect power or unplug the machine. Locate the two spring clips that hold the top cover to the top of the front panel. Insert a putty knife and push to release the clips as shown below. Do the same to the clip on the other side. Use care not to scratch the paint on the cover or the front panel.

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Rotate the front panel forward and lift it off from the base locating tabs.

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Reverse steps to reinstall the front panel.

The drain pump is located in the lower right front corner of the cabinet.

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Disconnect wire harness connectors and pinch off the black sump hose to prevent water leakage. Remove the inlet and outlet clamps and hoses. Remove the screws securing the pump and lift the pump out. Reverse steps to replace the pump.

Please accept the solution should you find it helpful and/or informative. Accepting the solution will not bar you from posting comments or additional information. You can still communicate with the expert should you need further advice regarding the issue stated herein.
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I have a Maytag Bravo Washing machine, and am having trouble with the drain cycle. I have replaced the pump twice and have checked the drain line. My washer will start and get to the drain cycle and it...

Here are some pointers to look at to determine the real problem. The code Ld indicates that the water level does not change after the drain pump is turned on.The machine/motor control detects such condition through the water level pressure sensor located in the control itself.

Since the drain pump is definitely not the problem, either the drain hose is blocked or installed too high, or the pressure sensor system is malfunctioning. Check if water is actually draining or not. If yes and the tub is actually empty when code appears, then the problem is in pressure sensor system. If no, then check for drain blockage.

Unplug the machine. Remove the three screws from the rear of the console assembly then pull console towards the front of washer to hinge it open and remove console. The machine/motor control assembly is located on the right hand side of the machine that is enclosed in a casing with a clear tube/hose connected to it.

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The clear tube/hose is the pressure hose. Check to make sure that everything connected to the machine/motor control assembly is properly attached and fully inserted and the pressure hose has no air leak, kinks, or moisture.

Turn off the water supply to the washer and disconnect the hot and cold water hoses from the rear of the washer then remove the end of the drain hose from where it is installed. Remove the eight screws from the rear panel and remove the panel.
Inspect the pressure hose for evidence of water then replace the hose if water or moisture is present. Inspect the air dome hose connection port for lint or flashing.

Use a small round device such as a small screwdriver to ensure that there is nothing blocking the air dome outlet on the tub. Also disconnect the pressure hose from the machine/motor control and blow air forcefully down the hose and also into the pressure sensor inlet in the control.

Replace the machine/motor control assembly if and only if verified that there are no issues with the pressure sensor system. Remove all the wire connections to the machine/motor control then remove the screw holding it to the console tray. Two plastic legs on the rear of the machine/motor control assembly are fitted into the console tray. Lift the front of the control assembly to pivot it out from the console tray. Reinstall the new machine/motor control assembly then secure it to the console tray and reconnect the wire harnesses.

NOTE: It is a good idea to take note of the wire harness connections before disconnecting them to prevent messing them up upon reconnection.
Labeling the connections makes reconnection more easily and trouble-free.


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How do I get the F1 code to go away? It pops up before the machine will start washing and then again before it will start rinsing. (Kenmore Elite) Oasis HE

It sounds like the error code F1 appears whenever the machine is filling. The machine/motor control senses an error in the signal coming the pressure sensor circuit. Either there is an air leak and/or moisture is present in the pressure sensor hose, lint and/or flashing in the air dome hose connection port, or the machine/motor control is malfunctioning.

Remove the three screws from the rear of the console assembly then pull console towards the front of washer to hinge it open and remove console. The machine/motor control assembly is located on the right hand side of the machine that is enclosed in a casing with a clear tube/hose connected to it.
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The clear tube/hose is the pressure hose. Check to make sure that everything connected to the machine/motor control assembly is properly attached and fully inserted and the pressure hose has no air leak, kinks, or moisture.

Turn off the water supply to the washer and disconnect the hot and cold water hoses from the rear of the washer then remove the end of the drain hose from where it is installed. Remove the eight screws from the rear panel and remove the panel.

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Inspect the pressure hose for evidence of water then replace the hose if water or moisture is present. Inspect the air dome hose connection port for lint or flashing.
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Use a small round device such as a small screwdriver to ensure that there is nothing blocking the air dome outlet on the tub.

Replace the machine/motor control assembly if and only if verified that there are no issues with the air pressure system. Remove all the wire connections to the machine/motor control then remove the screw holding it to the console tray. Two plastic legs on the rear of the machine/motor control assembly are fitted into the console tray. Lift the front of the control assembly to pivot it out from the console tray. Reinstall the new machine/motor control assembly then secure it to the console tray and reconnect the wire harnesses.

NOTE: It is a good idea to take note of the wire harness connections before disconnecting them to prevent messing them up upon reconnection.
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F1 code

This is a problem associated with the machine/motor control assembly and/or the pressure sensor system. Either the machine/motor control assembly is at fault or it is sensing an error in the signal from the air pressure sensor circuit. Unplug the machine for half an hour or so to forcibly reset the machine/motor control assembly and eliminate the possibility of a simple electronic glitch.

Remove the three screws from the rear of the console assembly, if unplugging the machine does not resolve the issue, then pull console towards the front of washer to hinge it open and remove console.
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The machine/motor control assembly is located on the right hand side of the machine that is enclosed in a casing with a clear tube/hose connected to it.
0f82334.jpg

The clear tube/hose is the pressure hose. Check to make sure that everything connected to the machine/motor control assembly is properly attached and fully inserted and the pressure hose has no air leak, kinks, or moisture.

Turn off the water supply to the washer and disconnect the hot and cold water hoses from the rear of the washer then remove the end of the drain hose from where it is installed. Remove the eight screws from the rear panel and remove the panel.

213b02f.jpg

Inspect the pressure hose for evidence of water then replace the hose (part number 353244) if water or moisture is present. Inspect the air dome hose connection port for lint or flashing.
1e1e1a4.jpg

Use a small round device such as a small screwdriver to ensure that there is nothing blocking the air dome outlet on the tub.

Replace the machine/motor control assembly if and only if verified that there are no issues with the air pressure system. Remove all the wire connections to the machine/motor control then remove the screw holding it to the console tray. Two plastic legs on the rear of the machine/motor control assembly are fitted into the console tray. Lift the front of the control assembly to pivot it out from the console tray. Reinstall the new machine/motor control assembly then secure it to the console tray and reconnect the wire harnesses.

NOTE: It is a good idea to take note of the wire harness connections before disconnecting them to prevent messing them up upon reconnection.
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Maytag Atlantis top loader washing machine won't spin out water. it spins but the water doesn't go out. it's only about 5 years old. help please!!!

The drain hose is plugged or kinked or the drain pump is not working. Check and clear the drain hose from any debris that might be causing the water not to be pumped out. After checking and clearing the drain hose and the water is still not pumped out of the washer, check the pump to see if the impeller is good or the pump needs to be replaced. Access to the pump requires the top cover and the front panel to be removed. Disconnect power to the washer prior to servicing to avoid the risk of electric shock.

The top cover is attached to the front panel by two clips positioned at about 3 inches from the corners. Use a putty knife and insert the blade into the seam between the top cover and the front panel assembly at the position of the clips.

Push the putty knife blade against the clips, one side at a time while lifting the cover to disengage the clips. Lift the top cover off the front panel then remove the two screws securing the front panel to the upper front corner braces of the cabinet.

Lean the top edge of the front panel away from the cabinet and lift the panel to disengage its bottom from the base clips. Move the front panel away from the cabinet to access the pump.

Disconnect the pump inlet and outlet hoses from the pump then remove the three screws mounting the pump assembly to the base of the washer.

Slide the pump to the rear of the washer to disengage the belt from the pump pulley and pull the pump assembly out of the washer.

Clear the pump inlet and outlet hoses for any debris to ensure water is not blocked from being pumped out of the washer.

Check the impeller. Remove the four screws securing the pump housing to the pump base then lift the housing off the base. Clean the impeller and the pump housing; replace the pump assembly if the impeller is damaged.

To replace the pump, set the pump pulley into the base opening and put the belt on the pulley. Install the mounting screws while holding tension on the belt to keep it on the pulleys.

Connect the pump inlet and outlet hoses and secure it with the clamps.

Position the bottom of the front panel back into the base clips then secure the top to the upper front corner braces of the cabinet with the two securing screws.

Push the top cover down into position to the front panel to complete the procedure.

Note: For Maytag Atlantis MAV8000A, the pump assembly is part number 35-6465.
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Maytag neptune front load washing machine will not fully discharge water after the rinse cycle...HELP???

Check the drain hose and clear it from any debris that might be blocking the water from draining out completely. If the drain hose is clear of debris, check and clean the pump. Disconnect the machine from the power outlet before servicing for safety purposes.

Remove the rear access panel to access the pump and disconnect the wiring harness from the terminals of the drain pump and the pressure switch.

Loosen the clamps holding the drain hose and the tub hose to the pump assembly. It is a good idea to spread a towel under the pump before loosening the clamps.

Remove the hoses and rotate the pump assembly counterclockwise to release the pump assembly support legs from the keyed slot in the base of the washer. Remove the pump assembly from the washer.

Clear the pump impeller from any debris that might be causing it to work improperly. Clean the tub and the drain hose.

Reassemble the pump, the hoses, and reconnect the wires to the terminals of the pressure switch and the drain pump. Reinstall the rear access panel and run the machine.

Replace the pump (part #25001052) if water still do not drain out completely.

Remove the plastic bag covering the pressure switch. Press in the locking tabs on the back of the pressure switch and pivot the pressure switch off the pump bracket.

Grasp the pressure switch and lift the nipple of the pressure switch from the pump cap.

Install the pressure switch into the new pump assembly in reverse of the steps above.











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I need to replace drain hose on an amana top loading washer. Is it easy to take off or is it connected to the drain pump? It is connected near the top of the washer. there is plastic around the whole where...

The connection for the drain hose is always directly to the pump outlet

You need to loosen off the top connection after removing the screws in the back panel

The panel will then slide over the hose (The plastic is there to stop it chafing )

The hose is held onto the pump with a clip , on some it is a screw type on others what is called a Cordbin clip which you need a pair of grips to remove or proper Corbin Pliers

Dump the hose into a bucket and tip the machine either forward or backward to get the maximum water out of it before you undoe the clips
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Whirlpool washing machine "lid switch" is broken My lid switch came completely apart! I have a grey plastic switch (paddle) and two tiny springs. How do I lift the top of the washer to re-assemble the...

Found online:
Disconnect everything, power first. Keep the drain hose above the top of the washer if the bucket’s full of water. If there are clothes in it, remove them to a water-tight location (like a cooler or something).
Put the unit on an appliance dolly and get it onto the driveway before removing the drain hose from the rear of the unit. Water will gush out for a while here.
Unscrew the two hex bolts at the top of the unit that attach the plastic tabs to the console. Unscrew the screws in the end caps that attach it to the top of the cabinet. Unscrew the two hex bolts at the base of the rear panel that attach it to the base.
Pull the console forward and up a little to dislodge it. Slide it out of the way enough to get access to the two brass clips. Put a flat-head screwdriver in the hole towards the front and pry the clip forward a little to release it. Remove both clips. This releases the rear panel from the top of the cabinet.
One cable goes from the console to the top of the cabinet: this is the lid switch. Disconnect it.
Pull the cabinet forward now that everything is detached. It helps to have someone holding the console and rear panel while you do this. Remove the cabinet.
Place it on something to prevent scuffing, like a few towels or a small animal. The lid switch is the only device here. Unscrew it from the ground (one hex screw) and from the inside of the lid (two Phillips screws). Push the grey tube holding the wires out of the clip holding it in and release the plug from the top of the lid.
Take this to a parts shop and ask for another. It’s around $25-50 depending on how desperate you look.
Snap the gray tube back in, screw in the ground and switch. Close the lid: it should click now. If not, check that you actually screwed the new unit in properly. Yes, the new one.
Replace the cabinet and the rear panel, then the clips and the console. Replace all screws and bolts. Make sure there are no spare parts. Reattach all the cables and hoses and plug power in last.
Test it by putting it on a small load and let some water into the tub. Then stop it, move to spin dry, and start it with the lid open. Nothing should happen. Close the lid (you made sure to replace the drain hose, right?) and it should start spinning and pushing out water.
Congratulations, you saved over $100 and only lost a few hours of your life doing it.
And now you know where my morning went.
Pro tip: don’t let the lid fall down anymore. Place it down, don’t drop it.
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