Question about Zojirushi NS-PC10 5-Cup Rice Cooker
I just took my lid apart on my rice cooker. My suggestion for dealing with the dirty stainless steel cover under the vent hole is to not look at it! The lid is not designed to come apart. I had to pry the top cover off of the lid. Once again just don't look in the vent hole and everything will be fine. (sorry about the bold letters my bold got stuck.) Have fun with the yuck in the vent hole.
Posted on Dec 03, 2009
SOURCE: We bought a Zojirushi NS-WAC18
Not a solution to this problem, but it may be of use to others... A month or so back, my wife switched off (and rapidly back on) the mains power supply to our Zojirushi NH-WAF18 induction heated rice cooker. The cooker had been in regular use for over ten years prior to that, operating from a fully isolated 240 to 110 Volt AC step-down transformer - as we are in the UK (240V AC mains) and the cooker was purchased in Taiwan (110 V AC mains). It had been extremely reliable.
Zojirushi were not very helpful in this instance (they had been very helpful in the past when the lithium backup battery in the cooker ran out of power after nine years use: supplying me with a schematic of the cooker - I wired-in a battery holder and two AA size 1.5V lithium cells in place of the original special sized battery). No advice of circuit diagrams were forthcoming, despite the fact that this cooker is no longer on sale from them.
Stripping-down the cooker revealed that it was a straightforward design. A bridge rectifier supplies circa 150 V DC. This then feeds an IGBT (Insulated gate Bipolar Transistor). Overall full output power is 1250W, with 20A fusing protecting the AC input.
The IGBT's gate is switched via two sequential IGBT driver ICs (TA8316S etc). Upon checking the IGBT, I found that it was partially OPEN circuit. There was no part number on the IGBT, but I sourced a suitable rated one (40A, Vces 600V DC, Vce(sat) 2.3V: type IXYS IXGH16N60B2D1). After fitting this the cooker still would not switch on.
Further tracing on the PCB revealed that the IGBT driver circuitry was powered via a Rohm BP5037 type hybrid voltage converter (150V DC in, circa 12V DC out). This was receiving no power. The cause of this was traced to an open circuiit 121 Degrees Celcius, 10 Amp, 250 Volt rated thermal fuse.
The latter is hidden inside a plastic housing with a thin aluminium cap (this can be seen inside the rice cooker - it sticks out into the annulus where the iron rice bowl goes - from the side about 1/4 way up: I had previously assumed this to be a mechanical switch to prevent the cooker operating without the rice bowl in place).
Carefully turning and unclipping this assembly from below, followed by gently pulling off the aluminium cap, revealed that the inside was divided into two semicircular compartments. One contains a thermal sensor, which feeds back to the PCB and is (I assume) part of the cooker's temperature regulation system. This is fed by two thin wires. Under a small piece of silicon rubber in the other compartment is situated the thermal fuse - fed by two thicker wires. I removed and replaced this - remember NOT to attempt to solder in the replacement: use crimping connections - it is a THERMAL fuse!!!
After this, the rice cooker worked fine again. It has been running daily for over a month now.
A W E Newey
Posted on Apr 09, 2012
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