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Frost free means that the evaporator coil will not accumulate a thick layer of frost. It will not prevent frost from accumulating on the walls of the freezer. To slow down the amount of frost build up inside the freezer, do not keep the freezer door open for any longer than necessary. The freezer door seal may be defective. This would allow moisture in that would freeze on the inside walls. A heater with timed intervals to come on is one way for a frost free feature. But this will not work for frost build up on the inside walls of the freezer. It would only melt the frost and then it would refreeze again.
Because a freezer only does one thing and that is freeze things, unfortunatly any things that breaks on a freezer causes the same thing. Is it running, does the fan work (frost free) are the shelves melting (non frost free) can you hear the compressor running , is the condensor fan running ?
This is normal if your freezer is in good working condition. If your compressor runs constantly then there is a problem. Once the unit reaches the set temperature the compressor shuts down. The set temperature should be between -2 & +2 degree F. The set temperature also depends on how full the freezer is. There will be a time when the freezer like refrigerators will shut down. This is relative to the term, "Frost Free". The unit will shut down for about 10 minutes. This occurs ever 8-10 hours. The heater turns on to defrost your freezer coil. It sounds like you are in good shape.
Since you say the compressor is running, you should check the evaporator coil inside the cabinet. Remove the back wall screws, and the back wall, to expose the evaporator. If its fully encased in frost, like a square block of snow, you have a defrost problem, heater, t- stat or defrost control. If frost only at the top, your fan is not running. If its bare of frost, all you see is the aluminum coil, you have a sealed system leak of refrigeratnt
drain plug and or line probably plugged should be clear if ice was problem in between the casing shouldnt be a problem let unit run normal and check temp the amount of high humidity and usage [open and closing of doors] has caused a lot of frost free and regular units to frost and or ice up
Are you frosting up at the condensor or did you mean the evaporator? If its the condensor then make sure the coils are clean. Still then you will need a tech to look at the seale system. If its the evaporator and the heater is ok then it could be the timer or the terminator on the compressor. Most of the time its the timer.
Is the compressor running the whole time? If so may have a problem with a refridgerant leak....check the compressor in the rear of unit, feel if its hot....may be as simple as a relay.
is it frost free? if it is then it could be a defrost heater, fan motor or defrost timmer. if it is not frost free then it could be short of gas or the compressor may be on the way out
IS THE FREEZER AN AUTO DEFROST FREEZER? IF SO, IS THERE FROST BUILT UP ON THE BACK WALL? IF FROST APPEARS ON THE BACK WALL, THERE IS A DEFROST FAILURE. THERE ARE THREE ITEMS IN THE DEFROST CIRCUIT. THE TIMER, HEATER, AND BI-METAL.
THE TIMER IS USUALLY LOCATED ON THE BACK OF THE FREEZER DOWN NEAR THE COMPRESSOR IN THE CORNER. IT HAS FOUR WIRES ATTACHED TO IT. YOU CAN ADVANCE THE TIMER BY TURNING THE KNOB ON THE FACE OF THE TIMER. WHEN IT CLICKS LOUD AND STOPS THE COMPRESSOR RUNNING, IT IS IN THE DEFROST CYCLE. WAIT 5 MNUTES AND CHECK INSIDE THE FREEZER
TO SEE IF THE HEATER COMES ON. YOU MAY BE ABLE TO HEAR THE FROST MELTING AND DROPPING ON THE HEATER. IT WILL SIZZLE AND POP. ALSO, LOOK FOR A GLOWING DOWN AT THE BOTTOM OF THE BACK PANEL.
IF THE HEATER IS ON, THE TIMER IS BAD. IF NOT, CHECK THE HEATER AND BI-METAL.
IF THE COMPRESSOR IS NOT RUNNING, CHECK THE COLD CONTROL TO SEE IF IT IS GOOD. IF THE COLD CONTROL IS O.K., THE START DEVICE ON THE COMPRESSOR MAY BE BAD. DOES THE COMPRESSOR HUM FOR A MINUTE AND THEN CLICK AND SHUT OFF. IT CAN BE EITHER THE START DEVICE (RELAY) OR THE COMPRESSOR IS BAD.
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