Whirlpool GH518XP Two year old microwave. Awoke one morning to find the unit completely dead. No display, no power, both bulbs (range top lighting) burnt. Ceramic fuse blown. AC outlet voltage checked good. Replaced ceramic fuse, but no help. Tried to gain access to the inverter board, but ran into to many obstacles. I do not own a manual which shows how to disassemble the unit. I tried to use the parts manual, but could only get so far. Should I junk this Whirlpool?

At 17 years old, replacement would be appropriate.

My Whirlpool/Roper microwave/hood combo has the same problem. I replaced the bulb twice, checked the bulb and it works, but not in the microwave. I wrote to Whirlpool asking about the problem. Haven't heard from them yet.

The first thing I would suggest is a hard reset. Unplug the unit for a minute or so. Then plug it back in, set the clock and try again. If that doesn't work, leave it unplugged for about 5 minutes.

If it still fails, it may be one of three fuses or three oven cavity thermostats in the unit.

There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

If you don't find yours, or if you want to look at it without disassembling the oven, you can download it here.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number from
the tag on the oven here.

Accessing some components (especially the oven cavity thermostat) for testing and possible replacement will require you to remove the oven from the wall and take off the outer cover.

If so, the installation instructions are very handy, and it's best to have two people since the microwave can be heavy and awkward.

You can download Whirlpool owner's manuals and installation instructions here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

We see (and repair) this a lot. The problem is on the control panel, which we regularly repair nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in about a week.

At our Web site, you can get details of our service, plus we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

This light failure often occurs when a bulb goes out and the filament shorts, or when the bulbs are removed or installed without first unplugging the oven from the power line. Either can cause such a failure on the controller.

The lights can can be inoperable or stuck on or no bright, too. Sometimes this will similarly affect the exhaust fan operation or inside light, too.

Feel free to contact me directly (and please remind me of your full model number from the tag on the unit) for more information & help.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller, AS-EET
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

Sounds like the bulb shorted, which is very common, and the first time it blew the fuse.

It sounds like when you put the new fuse in and tried it again, the bulb was still shorted, and this time it damaged the board.

We see (and repair) thisa lot. The problem is on the control panel, whichwe regularly repair nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in about aweek.

Atour Web site, we have a videoavailable showing how to remove a typicalover the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

This light failure oftenoccurs when a bulb goes out and the filamentshorts, or when the bulbs are removed or installed without firstunplugging the oven from the power line. Either can cause such afailure on the controller.

This can often alsoaffect the exhaust fan operation, too. The lights and fan can beinoperable or stuck on too.

Details of our serviceand critical safety information and disassembly information is at oursite, and our link is at ourlisting hereon FixYa.

Feel free to contact me directly (and please remind me of yourfull model number) for more information & help.

We'rehappy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate yourthoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

Nom...you probably blew the internal fuse. This time...turn off the power. Remove the button panel and search for the blown fuse. It might be ceramic or of some other type. If on a circuit board, there will be a xxxA with xxx indicating the amperage. Use a multitester available at Ace or Radio Shack to test. Replace with the same kind of unit. Your local auto store, appliance parts guy, Radio Shack or Sears parts can get you the part you need. Show them the old one.

there is no fuse power comes staight from the transformer on the board. the only possible fuse is the main fuse that will kill all the power

There are several parts which can cause the unit to be dead, mainly the fuse, thermostat, thermal cutout, or control panel. You can find critical safety info and disassembly tips ay my site via my listing here: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk You can get handy exploded views and order any neededparts here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383 Not sure about that model number though - you might want to verify that.

Just so I understand, you replaced the fuse inside the oven? If so, I would suspect a bad thermostat attached to the magnetron. This device interrupts power when the unit gets too hot. I've included a representative photo. After so many years your magnetron may be bad, too. Once you get the oven working, if it cooks and doesn't trip the thermostat again, it may be okay. PLUS - It looks like this model has manual rotary controls. If so, it's common for those to develop bad contacts after so many years. I would consider that my third suspect. Those controls are called the thermostat (not to be confused with other part by that name that I discussed above) and the selector switch. One could easily be bad. You can check part prices at Sears online at http://www3.sears.com (the "3" is supposed to be there) Some other things that can cause a "dead" condition: - bad connections on the small circuit board where the fuse is mounted (if such a board is present) - bad connections in the wiring Good luck.