No picture or sound or indication of pwer to set while plugged in need schematic possible fuse switch or relay problem or output of power supply

Backup Lamp Circuit Description
Battery positive voltage (B+) is supplied at all times to the REVERSE relay coil through the rear fuse block. Battery positive voltage (B+) is supplied at all times from the rear fuse block NSBU Fuse to the REVERSE relay switch. The powertrain control module (PCM) sends a class 2 message to the rear integration module (RIM) indicating that the gear selector lever is in the REVERSE position. The dash integration module (DIM) sends a class 2 message through power moding that the ignition switch is in the ON position. When these conditions occur, the RIM grounds the REVERSE relay coil. The coil is energized, closing the switch contacts. This supplies battery positive voltage (B+) to the backup lamps. The backup lamps are both permanently grounded, so both backup lamps have power and ground, and then light.

Do you know about class 2 serial data communications between control modules ? Do you know there is a fuse box under the rear seat ?

This is information taken from a Buick service repair manual !

Park Lamps
The dash integration module (DIM) supplies battery positive voltage (B+) to the PRK LP relay coil. When the headlamps or park lamps need to be on or when the ignition switch is in the ON position. Battery positive voltage (B+) is supplied at all times to the PRK LP relay switch. When the park lamps are to be active, the DIM grounds the PRK LP relay coil. The coil is energized, closing the switch contacts. Battery positive voltage (B+) is supplied to the rear fuse block RH PARK LP Fuse, LH PARK LP Fuse, and DIMR Fuse. The LH PARK LP Fuse supplies battery positive voltage (B+) to the LH park lamps. The LH PARK LP Fuse supplies battery positive voltage (B+) to the LH park lamps. The LH and RH park lamps are permanently grounded, so all park lamps have power and ground, and then light. The DIMR Fuse supplies battery positive voltage (B+) to the DIM park lamp input for interior lamps dimming, the license lamps, the underhood lamp, and the cornering lamps. The license lamps are permanently grounded, so both license lamps have power and ground, and then light.

The body control system consists of 3 modules:
• The dash integration module (DIM)
• The instrument panel module (IPM)
• The rear integration module (RIM)
Dash Integration Module (DIM)
Battery voltage is provided from the rear fuse block to the DIM. The module ground is wired to ground. Battery positive sense voltage is provided from the rear fuse block to the DIM. This battery input is referenced to the ground sense input at DIM which is wired to the battery negative terminal and to ground. These sense inputs are physically connected to the battery positive and negative terminals for accurate battery voltage readings. The DIM is wired to the class 2 serial data line. The various DIM input and output circuits are described in the corresponding functional areas as indicated on the DIM electrical schematics.
Instrument Panel Module (IPM)
Battery voltage is provided from the underhood fuse block to the IPM. Ignition voltage is provided from the rear fuse block to the IPM. The voltage inputs are referenced to the module ground. The IPM is wired to the class 2 serial data line. The various IPM input and output circuits are described in the corresponding functional areas as indicated on the IPM electrical schematics.
Rear Integration Module (RIM)
Battery voltage is provided from the rear fuse block to the RIM. Ignition voltage is provided from the rear fuse block to the RIM. These voltage inputs are referenced to module ground. The RIM is wired to the class 2 serial data line. The various RIM input and output circuits are described in the corresponding functional areas as indicated on the RIM electrical schematics.
Rear Integration Module (RIM)
The RIM functions include the following functions:
• Heated seat controls
• Rear defogger control
• Park relay controls
• Various controls for the interior lamps
• Reverse control for the backup lamps
• Rear compartment lid release controls
• Retained Accessory Power (RAP) control
• Ajar switch and tamper switch inputs from the rear compartment lid
• Vehicle leveling
Your best bet would be to take your vehicle to a qualified repair shop ! No offence but this is complex an a factory or professional grade scan tool is needed , could have DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes stored .
Body Control System Description
The body control system consists of the following 3 modules:
• The dash integration module (DIM), located behind the instrument panel, under the right dash sound insulator.
• The instrument panel module (IPM), located behind the instrument panel, under the left dash sound insulator.
• The rear integration module (RIM), located behind the rear seat back cushion (upper, left).

That capacitor could possibly be the cause. On some sets, the 12V supplies both the video and audio circuits. I would recommend replacing the cap and checking power supply outputs especially the 12vdc supply.

The cause of that problem is a faulty power supply.There's a leak capacitor in the power supply that's why the output voltage of the power supply shut off.There are 4 regulated output voltage of the power supply, the stand by 5vdc,the switched 5vdc,the 12-16vdc and 24vdc.So if any supply output of the following output have gone, there's a problem in the operation of the TV.The leak capacitor can identify throug visual checking if do not know how to use tester to test the deffective parts.The leak capacitor have bulging tops,so if you can see the power supply located at the upper right side you can see the bulging tops of thecapacitor.Replace with the same value of capacitor.

The indications that the power supply is going is when you start noticing flickering and sound like shorts when you watch TV...
I do not know how to answwr this without looking at it but first I will check again and follow how far you are getting electric to the board

This could be a power supply problem, these tv's use a series of switching mode power supplies usually mounted in the same circuit board , the light flashing is an indicator that this is the problem, but these boards are expensive so you may want to get the tv looked at before anything else. You do not mention if the sound remains in your description of the symptom, but just in case it does then a back light inverter could be at fault. hope this helps. thanks for leaving you feed back.

Probably the power amp has arced and popped a lot of components.

When teh amps go usually the final pwer transistors, their drivers and sometimes even the power supply gets zapped.

Check the output of the preamp at the inserts for the final amp with headphones to see if anything is coming through.

Check Horizontal Output Transistor, if found bad / short, replace it.

Hello gabed,

 

The problem may be in your switching power supply or in your high voltage power supply, I would suggest that if you have a background in electronics you do the following.

 

1) look for any blown fuses and replace them

2) Using a schematic measure the incoming AC voltage and the DC levels on the output of the switching power supply.

3) remove power from the set and take resistance measurements to determine if there is a short circuit anywhere in the DC path.

4) Measure for shorts and opens in the High Voltage section of the set.

 

These are the usual checks you will have to do.

 

Now if you don't have a background in electronics, I would suggest that you have a qualified TV technician come over and check your TV set.

 

I hope this helps,

Thank You,

Shuttle83

My first gut tells me that this is a power supply problem. The power supply runs out of capacity due to the increased load of the audio amp. Possible problems might be power supply capacitors have changed their value (lowered), if it has a linear power supply, the full wave bridge (that converts AC to DC)might have a bad diode, if it is a switching power supply one or more of the output capacitors may actually be open. Another possible problem is a cold solder joint. Does the picture breakup occur when the case is slapped? This could indicate a mechanical failure (like a solder joint). Is this the only symptom that this set has?

This looks like a problem with the H Voltage or switching power supply section of the TV set. What you need to do is to measure the voltage from the HV transformer to the Anodes of the CRTs with a high voltage probe, and check the voltage output of the switching power supply. What may have happened is a component may have shorted out causing an over-current condition with is triggering the shutdown circuit (These are the relays you are hearing). I would check the Horizontal Output transistor or a driver transistor, and the components in that section of the TV.

In addition check the voltage test points on the HV / Horizontal and switching power supply board. This will determine if the section is working or not (most likely not). Make sure you have a schematic, and multimeter and a high voltage probe.   Since you have checked most of the common Items I am leaning towards one of the fuses in the system, I would suggest getting a schematic since switching power supplies can be tricky. Trust me I remember the days when a tech could find a fuse on a board easily, those days are gone some fuses even look like ICs now they are called digital fusible devices.   try www.servicemanuals.net to get a schematic for your set
I hope this helps,
Thank you,
Shuttle83