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In order to replace the right front lower control arm you will a spring compressor. That's the most important tool you will need so that the spring does not fly out at you when you lower down the control arm. The control arm bolts are 21mm or 22mm nuts & bolts depending on if alignment adjust bolts installed or not. If adjustment bolts are installed then you will want to pay attention and note to which side the notches face so that you install them back into their original position. The ball joint nut will either be a 17mm or a 19mm. 16mm for the shock and a 22mm & 17mm for the sway bar link. Compressing that spring is the most important part of the jb though so don't forget to compress it.
to replace the lower control arm with a 4x4 model you need to release the spring tension on the torsion bar back near the trans cross member with a 2wd remove the shock and release the lower ball joint with a floor jack under the lower control arm to lower the arm slowly stand off to the side incase the spring flies out
Control arms are the parts that hold the ball joints (upper and lower) and attach to the vehicle frame. Look in back of the tires. The lower control arm, in your case, will have a torsion bar (a bar that serves as a spring)making the repair more labor intensive. Cost will vary based on labor rates, parts cost/mark up. Sorry I can't give you a figure but hope it helps at least to identify the parts.
General Description
The front suspension allows each wheel to compensate for changes in the road surface without affecting the opposite wheel. Each wheel independently connects to the frame with a steering knuckle, ball joint assemblies, and upper and lower control arms.
The control arms specifically allow the steering knuckles to move in a three-dimensional arc. Two tie rods connect to steering arms on the knuckles and an intermediate rod. These operate the front wheels.
The two-wheel drive vehicles have coil chassis springs. These springs are mounted between the spring housings on the frame and the lower control arms. Double, direct acting shock absorbers are inside the coil springs. The coil springs attach to the lower control arms and offer ride control.
The upper part of each shock absorber extends through the upper control arm frame bracket. This bracket has two grommets, two grommet retainers, and a nut.
A spring stabilizer shaft controls the side roll of the front suspension. This shaft is mounted in rubber bushings that are held by brackets to the frame side rails. The ends of the stabilizer shaft connect to the lower control arms with link bolts. Rubber grommets isolate these link bolts. Rubber bushings attach the upper control arm to a cross shaft. Frame brackets bolt the cross shaft.
A ball joint assembly is riveted to the outer end of the upper control arm. A rubber spring in the control arm assures that the ball seats properly in the socket. A castellated nut and a cotter pin join the steering knuckle to the upper ball joint.
The inner ends of the lower control arm have pressed-in bushings. The bolts pass through the bushings and join the arm to the frame. The lower ball joint assembly is a press fit in the lower control arm and attaches to the steering knuckle with a castellated nut and a cotter pin.
Ball socket assemblies have rubber grease seals. These seals prevent entry of moisture and dirt and damage to the bearing surfaces.
Four-wheel drive models have a front suspension that consists of the control arms, a stabilizer bar, a shock absorber, and right and left torsion bars. The torsion bars replace the conventional coil springs. The lower control arm attaches to the front end of the torsion bar. The rear end of the torsion bar mounts on an adjustable arm at the crossmember. This arm adjustment controls the vehicle trim height.
Two-wheel drive vehicles have tapered roller sheel bearings. These bearings are adjustible and need lubrication.
Four-wheel drive models and RWD Utilities have sealed front-wheel bearings. These bearings are pre-adjusted and need no lubrication.
Heat treatment may create darkened areas on the bearing assembly. This discoloration does not signal a need for replacement.
Hope this helps?
Broken stabalizer links, broken stabilizer bar, and worn out stabilizer bar bushings are fairly common. As well as the rear bushings on the front lower control arms. A quick inspection of the front end and you should be able to tell if the links are bad, bar is broken, or the lower control arm bushings are separated. If the rear bushings on the front lower control arms are seperated the lower control arm will look like it is resting on the subframe.
To replace the lower control are you need to unbolt it from the subframe, airmatic strut, sway bar link and from the lower ball joint. The lower ball joint is separate from the lower control arm. The ball joint actually gets pressed into the steering knuckle. Then the lower control arm sits on top of the ball joint and gets bolted down. The lower control arms list price are about $330 each and the ball joints are around $78 each for oem mercedes parts. The total labor for both to be replaced is somewhere between 6-8 flag hours. The thrust arms are also part of the front suspension and those arms are one piece that have a ball joint as part of the arm. The lower control arm usually doesn't need to be replaced unless its damaged since the control arm bushings are available separately and are around $73 each side for the kit.
Raise and support the truck on jackstands.
Fig. 1: Installing the upper control arm — C-Series
Support the lower control arm with a floor jack.
Remove the wheel.
Remove the air cleaner extension (if necessary).
Unbolt the brake hose bracket from the control arm.
Remove the cotter pin from the upper control arm ball stud and loosen the stud nut until the bottom surface of the nut is slightly below the end of the stud.
Install a spring compressor on the coil spring for safety.
Using a screw-type forcing tool, break loose the ball joint from the knuckle.
Remove the nuts and bolts securing the control arm to the frame brackets.
Tape the shims and spacers together and tag for proper reassembly. The 35 Series bushings are replaceable. The 15/25 Series bushings are welded in place.
To install:
Installation is the reverse of removal but please note the following important steps.
Place the control arm in position and install the shims, bolts and new nuts. Both bolt heads must be inboard of the control arm brackets. Tighten the nuts finger tighten for now.
NOTE: Do not tighten the bolts yet. The bolts must be torqued with the truck at its proper ride height.
Install the ball stud nut. Tighten the nut to specification.
Lower the truck. Once the weight of the truck is on the wheels:
Lift the front bumper about 38mm and let it drop.
Repeat this procedure 2 or 3 more times.
Draw a line on the side of the lower control arm from the centerline of the control arm pivot shaft, dead level to the outer end of the control arm.
Measure the distance between the lowest corner of the steering knuckle and the line on the control arm. Record the figure.
Push down about 38mm on the front bumper and let it return. Repeat the procedure 2 or 3 more times.
Re-measure the distance at the control arm.
Determine the average of the 2 measurements. The average distance should be 95.0mm plus or minus 6mm.
If the figure is correct, tighten the control arm pivot nuts to 88 ft. lbs. (120 Nm) on 1988–90 models; 140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm) on 1991–98 models.
If the figure is not correct, tighten the pivot bolts to 88 ft. lbs. (120 Nm) on 1988–90 models; 140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm) on 1991–98 models and have the front end alignment corrected.
Jack the car up and remove the tire. Use a ball joint separator on the front lower control arm and remove the remaining 2 bolts, if working on the rear lower control arm, remove the 2 bolts holding the arm in place and install the new control arm.
An alignment is recommended when changing any part of the suspension, especially control arms, tie rod ends, etc.
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