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Take it out and see if the fan wil turn by hand. It may have somethng obstructing it. The clicking is the motor overload. It wil burn out if it continues to keep clicking.
Is sounds like it could be the automatic ignition. If the sound only happens when you are pressing or turning the knob, I would say that is all that it is. Most gas heaters have an ignition switch under the knob. This triggers the ignition to try and spark. light the gas when the knob is depressed.
Since the heater fires it sounds like it could be the bypass valve stuck open. The bypass valve allows some of the water to enter the heater, while the rest bypasses the heater and returns to the pool.
If the bypass is stuck open, or broken, it allows the vast majority of the water to bypass the heater and continue to the pool. The water that is in the heat exchanger will become too hot due to slow flow and activate the high limit switch, turning the heater off.
The bypass is located where the pipes attach to the heater and can be checked or replaced if needed fairly easily.
If your refrigerator is a few years old it may have an electromechanical timer to control the defrost cycle. With age and/or lots of dust the timer motor can wear out or the switch contacts can get stuck. Behind the grill below the door there should be a small black box with several wires coming out of it. On the front of the box there is a small (dime sized) round disk with a slot in it. This is the defrost timer, a 24-hour clock mechanism which switches the cooling unit off and the defrost heaterson for 15 or 20 minutes every 24 hours (approximately). Insert a small insulated screwdriver into the slot and turn it slowly clockwise until you hear a click. The compressor and fan(s) should turn on (if they aren't running already) and the defrost heaters should turn off. If you continue turning the timer disk you should hear another click and the compressor & fans will shut off and the heaters turn on. Stop turning the disk at this point. Wait a couple of minutes and then turn the disk a few degrees farther (5 degrees represents about 20 minutes). You should hear a click and the compressor starting up again. If there is no change and the heaters still seem to be on, then you may need to replace the timer (it should unplug from the wiring harness). A Home Appliance Parts store should be able to provide you with a compatible replacement timer.
check air filter is clean , clean flame sencer , see if ignition coil is glowing or cracked , check connections to psb from flame sencer is tight see it tube from fan is not blocked or connection is not blocked, and at pressure switch , jump out pressure switch see if it lights ,
there is an overheat switch attached to the draft inducer box where the vent attaches to the heater. It could be getting weak. If you can jump it to test, you may be able to replace it with a universal thermodisc if you can find out at what temperature is opens. Once you figure that out, go to grainger.com and view their selection of bi-metal switches.
The 4 flashes is a high limit or roll out switch is open. There are 2 or 3 little brown or black button looking switches with a little button on the top and a wire attached to each side. Press the button on each, you may hear a slight "click". If you do, that is the one that was open. Hope this helps.
You have a defrost system problem. Defrost is controlled by a timer which energizes the heater circuit. The heater circuit has a radiant or cal rod type heater which melts the frost from the coil. When the coil reaches a temperature where all ice would be gone a termination switch opens and shuts of the heater. The timer will continue to run until defrost time expires (18-22 minutes).
If you can locate the timer there is a clutch head screw to advance the timer to the defrost position. Turn the screw clockwise SLOWLY until you hear one audible click. The heaters should come on and defrost take place. If the unit restarts after the 18-22 minute period the timer is good, if it does not restart advance the screw to a second audible click and it will restart. If you had to turn the timer the to second click to get it started cooling replace the timer.
If the unit restarted after the 18-22 minutes and defrost did not happen your problem is in the heater circuit. This would be an open heater or bad defrost terminator switch. To access the heater and defrost terminator the back panel in the freezer section must be removed. With an Ohm meter you can check the heater to see if it is good.
Sounds like the high limit switch on the heater is kicking off. The flash is the switch shutting off the heating element. The only way to reset it is to turn unit off for about 5 minutes. Possible problems are: 1.) Bad thermostat 2.) blower motor not turning fast enough which means motor is bad.
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