Have Princeton VL1919 monitor for a few years connected to a Mac Mini and working fine. Tonight there was a thunderstorm and the lights in the house went out for a couple of seconds. When I went to the computer, the monitor screen was no longer in sleep mode and the blue power button in the center on the monitor was not on. I had to press the button on the Mac Mini to get it to re-boot and I heard the familiar chime. The monitor however did not respond. The only thing going on with the monitor is a rhythmic click associated with a corresponding slight flicker of the monitor screen. (Very subtle.) Pressing power button on monitor does not help. Removing and replacing power cord starts and stops the clicking. Is the monitor shot? Is there life left in it?

try taking the batteries out or go to the shop where you bought it and go from there...good luck lol :-P

More likely to have failed DC filter caps, see pictures here: http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/Princeton%20VL1918W/

Basic LCD monitor and LCD TV troubleshooting guide:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r6150077-basic_lcd_monitors_troubleshooting

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5093881-lcd_flat_panel_tv_troubleshooting_guide

Failed TV, Monitors, Caps : http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums

Learn about bad caps: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
Capacitor kits: http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/ he can make you a set of caps for you.
Please post back what you find.

Remove the stand and all he screw from the back and the bottom edge. See my pictures fo VL1918 which is similar to 1919.
http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/Princeton%20VL1918W/

http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

Common failure on the Princeton monitors are caps failure in the power supply, look for bad caps (bulging top or seal), see failed Princeton monitors due to bad caps: http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums
Post back what you see inside so we can guide you further.

Try looking for bad caps first, see example of failed PRINCETON monitors because of bad caps here: http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums
Post back what you see so we can guide you further.
The ticking sound is from power supply turning on and off.

Try the monitor with another computer or with a laptop (as an external monitor). If it is working, the problem is related to the main unit. This case, have the main unit be checked by a professional.

Hello,

It sounds like you have a monitor with a common problem. After a few years some LCD monitors will blow a power supply. The problem is caused by parts called capacitors overheating in the confined space of the monitor. If you are good at electronics repair/soldering you can usually fix the problem. Check out a few pictures on my web site www.ccl-la.com/badcaps.htm You can take the back cover off your monitor and look for the bad parts,replace any that look like the pictures and your monitor should work fine. The capacitors do need to be installed with the correct + and - connections, note the stripe on the old one and insert the new one the same way. If you have additional questions just email me. If you can't do the repair we offer a repair service, contact us for more details.

I hope this helps, if so please rate my solution.

Buddy
Corporate Computer
www.ccl-la.com
Over 21 years of computer and printer support/repair

Princeton Graphics VL2018W monitor does not require any drivers to function. If you have problems changing resolutions, color depth, or refresh rates, Please consult your video card manufacturer for a video driver or support. Your system will not identify the monitor if video drivers is not installed properly. I agree with this statement. You dont need drivers for monitors 99.9% of the time. Usually you video card is what is wrong if u cant change the resolution.

My VL1919 has been having this issue off and on for a month or so now. It happened three times in one day today, so I decided to do something about it. I opened up the monitor and poked around a bit.
I found three electrolytic capacitors on the backlight inverter board were bulging, two of which had just started to leak: The capacitors were placed directly above and next to a large, flat metal heat sink. I say above with respect to the flow of air due to convection, and next to because the heat sink also wraps around, enclosing the group of capacitors on one side. The heat sink sits flush with the circuit board, turning the board into a front enclosing face. When reassembled, the metal housing sits a fraction of an inch above the sink, forming a back face. This assembly is at the top edge of the circuit board, so the housing then takes a 90° bend to form a top face. These capacitors seem to get almost no air flow... Together with the heat coming off the sink, it appears the engineers have created their own little capacitor oven. Capacitors immediately adjacent to the affected components, but without blocked air flow looked completely normal. Looking at the traces on the circuit board and location of other components, the capacitors could have easily been moved out of the hot spot. This is either an act of gross negligence, or an intentionally created post-warranty failure point, designed to avoid market saturation. But that might be too pessimistic... "Never attribute to malice what can be adequately explained by incompetence." Anyway, I scavenged a few capacitors off an old computer power supply to replace the damaged parts (one 470uF 25V two 1000uF 10V capacitor, both rated to 105°C). To avoid a repeat performance, I soldered some short extension wires to the replacement caps and moved them out to an open area of the board, being careful to give the high voltage components plenty of breathing room. After reassembly, the monitor powered right up and came online. I guess the real question is how long it will stay this way.

If you feel confident take the monitor back cover off and replace the 3 bulged out capacitors