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I know this is late but might help someone plus I had to repair the audio input cable going from my acoustimass 25 series II to the Lifestyle 5 receiver. The 13 pin connecter cable terminates to 2 RCA jacks (red/white) one 3.5 mm jack and a female RCA which is the digital sound source. looking at the connector with the 13th pin on the bottom, I reference the pins from 1-13 starting at the top left:
PIN 1 RCA (RED) center conductor
PIN 2 RCA (RED) sleeve
PIN 3 RCA (digital) sleeve
PIN 4 RCA (digital) center conductor
PIN 5 RCA (WHITE) sleeve
PIN 6 not used
*PIN 7 3.5mm RING (?????)
PIN 8 3.5mm SLEEVE
PIN 9 RCA (WHITE) center conducto
PIN 10 not used
PIN 11 not used
PIN 12 3.5mm TIP
PIN 13 not used
* the 3.5 mm stereo jack is used for system control on the back of the lifestyle 5 receiver, the cable that terminates to the 3.5mm is a 3 conductor cable that terminates to PIN 8 & PIN 12 but PIN 7 only has continuity from the pin itself to the white cable (within the 3.5mm cable) but not all the way through to the 3.5mm ring (where i would assume it to terminate). Maybe this is where my problem is, I don't know but I spliced the cable right before the 3.5mm jack and there was continuity between PIN7 and the white cable that corresponds to the 3.5mm jack I just dont know where its terminating too. If anyone can confirm that it is supposed to terminate to the ring of the 3.5mm connector I would appreciate it.
Normally these low end system components depend on each other and cannot be interchanged with components from other system. So if one of the components (subwoofer or right control satellite speaker) breaks or gets lost the whole system is unusable... I was in the same situation. Got a subwoofer from VS4121 without original satellite speakers. I acquired satellite speakers from Altec Lansing 251 which used same connectors but the internal wiring was different and incompatible. Speakers are also glued together so it is impossible to open without damaging it. Obviously there is no service documentation anywhere.. But if you like electronics you can try to make something based on the information below:
Altec Lansing VS4121 connector pinout: Take the male connector (from right satellite speaker) and number pins in first row from left to right as 1-3, pins in the second row as 4-7, pins in the bottom row as 8-9 and the circle enclosure as 0. Then: 0 - Ground 1 - Speaker Right 2 - Treble (seems just like voltage control but may need to be confirmed: Min=0V; Max=voltage from Volume control Pin 9) 3 - Head Set Right 4 - Bass signal (not sure what the exact original design is as I have not opened the speaker) But seems like they use 50K potentiometer and some sort of RC low pass filter configuration. When potentiometer is set to Min it is shorted with ground. When set to Max it is taking signal from Right and Left Head Set (pins 3 and 5) combined through some larger resistors and low pass filter. 5 - Headset Left 6 - Ground for Headset (grounds 0 and 6 seems to be connected in the subwofer but within the right satellite speaker they seem to be isolated with separate leads to sub) 7 - Power ON/OFF. When OFF or headset jack plugged then 0V. When ON and headset jack unplugged then 5V 8 - 5V Power in 9 - Volume (min=0V; max=5V). It seems they use 50K potentiometer but probably anything >10k should work.
At minimum for standalone subwoofer you will need to implement: - Power On/Off (switch between pins 8,7) - Volume control 50k potentiometer (probably anything between 10k and 50k will do) between pin 7 and 0 with variable output to pin 9 - Bass control - join two resistors R (I used 7k) and call this join point A. Attach other ends of the resistors to pins 3 and 5 respectively. Attach 50k potentiometer (I used 10k) between point A and ground 0. Attach Variable pin of the potentiometer to pin 4 (Bass input signal). Attach capacitor C between Pin 4 and Ground pin 0 (I used Electrolytic 1uF with negative end to ground) . Resistor R and capacitor C should make simple passive low pass filter (Google for formula) that should short any frequency higher than 80-120Hz to ground and feed frequencies lower than 80-120Hz to pin 4.
PS: I managed to hack 251 control satellite speaker to somewhat work with VS4121 Subwoofer but that is another subject. All electronic parts were salvaged from old broken TV so total cost was $0 but took several days of tinkering for speakers that I could buy used for $10-20 :)
Assuming you have the BA745 2.1 speaker set up, all of the cables connect to the subwoofer and then to the computer or the satellite speakers (these are built into the speakers IIRC). Take the cable with the black box (2 pins) to red and green. The red and green plugs go into the matching color ports on the computer and the pins on the black end fit into the jacks between the those for the two satellites. Plug the single end speaker cable into the subwoofer port all the way to the right on the back of the subwoofer. Plug the wire with the two plugs into the matching color jacks (blue to the left, red to the right). Then plug in the power adapter cable in the farthest left jack and plug in the other end to a surge protected power strip (that is plugged in and turned on).
how many cables shud link up to the tv with the acoustic solution model AS134?i have the colour coded pins plugged in to the speakers left,right,back left,back right and center which plug in to the subwoofer box.how ever i then only have 1 cable left which has a red pin and a white pin that i assume go into the AUX left and right pin ports?the cable then splits into another 2 red and white pins.do these pins plug into the left and right output on the tv?am i missing any cables?help would be appreciated.
There are probably cables coming from the front of the computer. On the motherboard, you will see 2 or more groups of pins where these cables go. Unfortunately, sometimes the cables don't have a single plug, but have one plug that has 3 holes and then 1 that has one. Many times, too, there are 2 sets. So--let's see if this helps: The pins will be labled something like USB and then several numbers. The pins look like this ::::. (hope that shows up OK) If your usb cable end has one large (3-hole) plug and one small, the large one goes over the first 3 pins from left to right. The one on the left is labeled VCC. The separate plug goes on the 4th pin. You can use the top row of pins or the bottom. Nothing goes on pin #5 on the bottom. Does this help? If so, rate it accordingly, please.
Other posters to this forum have said this connector is available at Radio Shack. If you can't find a connector here is a workaround that will do the job:
If there is a broken pin you can bypass it by cutting open the cable jacket and delicately soldering a 6 inch or so jumper onto the affected wire, and then solder a jumper to the appropriate point inside the subwoofer. Pass the subwoofer jumper out of the case (drill a small hole) and connect it to the jumper you added to the cable.
I have scoured the net to get the info you need, but came up empty handed. I would take the back off the unit and work out what connections are what from tracing it out to the power supply. If you are not up with electronics, then that may not be an option. I have emailed (ref 080528-000007) my Behringer contact to get the info for you. Will post it back here shortly.
I recently had a similar problem. In my case the left speaker had no sound. Finally traced the problem to a broken wire inside the control pod plug, which I destroyed by dissecting it. For those who have the experience, or know someone who does, purchase a new plug, which a Mini DIN 8 pin (RS-422 standard). It should be available at any good electronic parts store. Solder new plug on to cable, which requires a fine electronic soldering iron and a fair bit of skill (the wires are very fine).
Look at the plug (from the rear); you will see it comprises a top row of 3 pins equaly spaced; a middle row of 3 pins (there is room for 4 pins but one pin is missing just left of centre); a bottom row of 2 pins. I numbered these as follows:
8 o 7 o 6 o
5 o 4 o 3 o
2 o 1 o
The wire from the controller comprises 8 coloured cores and a bare core. The wiring of the eight cores are as follows:
DIN CORE PCB
pin 8 - brown 8
pin 7 - red 7
pin 6 - orange 6
pin 5 - yellow 5
pin 4 - green 4
pin 3 - blue 3
pin 2 - white 2
pin 1 - black 9
body clamp - bare wire - G
In case your coloured cores vary from mine I have also listed the pin each one goes to on the printed circuit board plug, which will let you identify the colours.
(There are different versions of the ba-200, so I'm assuming they al
use the same wiring/pinout...)
if you look at the amp on the enclosure(right-side up... so the writin
goes left->right):
The top left pin is #1, beside it is #2, then #3.
The bottom left pin is #4, beside it is #5, then #6.
#1 Right speaker positive input
#2 Empty
#3 12 Volt Constant Power
#4 Left speaker positive input
#5 Remote turn on / Acc power input
#6 Ground
Now there's supposed to be a 15-amp fuse on pin #3 (12v constan
power).
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