Have samsung american fridge freezer with ice dispenser i bought it second hand the problem is the digital display says the freezer is 20 degrees but its freezing inside also every minute or so we hear a beeping noise for a few seconds at a time(the fridge is fine)

turn it of and under your fridge or on the inside water is ment to full into the tray either the tray is full or your temp control is buggered. try tilting your fridge back about so it leans back and see if that helps but a new seal is about $20 and all you do is pul the old one off and pop the new one in place

For Samsung side-by-side refrigerators, there are two possible locations. One is in the upper right hand corner of the refrigerator. The other is behind the veggie drawer.

To access the filter, either remove the top glass shelf or the vegetable bin. Turn off the water to the refrigerator. If no filter is currently in use, remove the cap. If a filter is in use, remove the old filter. Turn clockwise to remove the old filter. Save the cap to reinstall if the fridge is ever used without the filter. Note the date when you put in the new filter and place the sticker on the filter. Remove the red cap from the new filter and align the unlock mark with the filter mark on the filter housing in the refrigerator. (Looks like an unlocked padlock with the u part turned 180 degrees from the rest of the lock). Turn the new filter counter-clockwise 90 degrees until the lock symbol (closed padlock) lines up with the mark on the housing. Use steady firm pressure - it will be hard to turn. This ensures a tight seal. Turn on the water line and check for leaks. If the filter isn't leaking replace the shelf or the vegetable drawer.

Samsung support for the SRS618dp is here: http://www.samsung.com/au/support/detail/supportPrdDetail.do?menu=SP00&prd_ia_cd=2201&prd_mdl_cd=RS23DENS1%2FRAD&prd_mdl_name=SRS618DP&srchword=SRS618DP .

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

The buzzing you hear is the water valve trying to run water to the icemaker. If there is no water going to the icemaker it will be going into cycles one after another. And when it does it adds heat into the freezer. Turn the ice maker off and see if the freezer gets colder.

Your Ice maker may be the cause. if it is not holding water the water may be landing on the bottom and freezing, causing the ice build up and obstructing the air transfer from the freezer to the refrigerator. You can remove or replace your Ice maker. Then you will have to defrost your freezer to get everything back to normal.

If you turn the dial clockwise this will make it colder anticlock less cooler...Start by switching off for a few Hours leave door open to allow defrost...Turn the stat fully anticlockwise to almost off then put it to say 2 o clock position assumming that it will go from 12 to 10,this should allow food to remain cold without freezing.you are looking for about 3/8 Degrees c.....Buy a cheap thermometer this will help to keep you on the right track..Good luck

hi RD stands for refridgerator defrost ...

prob best to switch of for 5 mins and then put back on - has anyone been playing with buttons at front as this can put appliance into service mode where this code can show up ??

samsung fridge freezer diy channel on toutube



hope this helps ">

The clicking you are hearing is the relay unit. Now it is for sure that the compressor is not working as the relay keep s tripping off.
So first of all to clear this doubt, let us checck the relay unit which is clicking. remove and check. most of the time the relays need to be replaced as a poor contact will not deliver good voltage to the compressor and it will shut off. So check this out.
One the compressor works and you notice there is cooling the sytem seems ok except that you must check if the thermostat, the auto defrost cut off timer works.
If after the compressor works the cooling is not good then you can decide on a replacement than to spend for expensive repairs

Hi, it is possible for your freezer to work when you fridge is not working. Fridge-freezer appliances have independent controls which can malfunction separately. If your freezer is fine and your fridge seems down, there are several things that could be wrong but what i suspect is that... You should check the damper door located between the freezer and fridge compartments to make sure it opens and closes, sometimes they get an ice build up there and this causes them to stick shut, remove ice with hair dryer or remove and device and replace this will solve your trouble.
Best of all is to call in a local fridge technician around to get it fixed, it won't cost you much...

Take care

The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.