Question about Dual Car Audio & Video
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
protect mode usaully means that something has disrupted the power of feed lines to the subwoofer/speakers possibly fuse is blown in amp or amp is blown in which we hope not. see if you have a warrenty if blown and send back or bring it to where you purchased it from.
Posted on Aug 01, 2009
remove the load (subwoofer)...
ensure the power and remote have 12V (remotoe only when the car is on)....
And make sure the ground is a good one - sanded and screwed.
If you now turn on the car, and the red light for protection still stays on, your problem is internal, and it will need to be serviced. This is not something that you can crack open and fix, as there are lethal amounts of stored energy in the power supply and capacitors.
If the light goes on, youe sub(s) is/are at fault. Check the impedence with a multimeter set to OHMs and read the voicecoil. It should read pretty near to 4 or 8 ohms.
But since your amp is the only piece new to the equasion, chances are the problem lies within the amplifier.
It either has fried components, or your subwoofer(s) are wired to a low enough impedence that your amplifier does not like.
With more info... model #s voicecoil configurations I can help you better. I will c/p an answer I wrote recently regarding amplifier failure.
Posted on Jan 06, 2009
SOURCE: Amp on "protect" mode
Hi, what you need to do is unplug all the connections to the amp. The amp goes into protection when the circuitry over heats.\
First decrease all your gains to minimal volume.
Connect your 12+V, remote, and ground.
See if the protection light comes on then.
Next plug in your RCA cables.
Check protection light.
Then plug in your subwoofer cables.
See if you are still in protect mode.
Hopefully everything works alright again.
Just slowly increase the gain to see what the cut-off is. Make sure you aren't dropping the ohmage too low on the amplifier. Check manual for correct wiring and such.
Posted on Feb 09, 2009
all depends on that amp... if there was an issue it wouldnt work, and the light would be by a protect symbol... if its just red next to the power symbol i say no issue.
Posted on Feb 19, 2010
Ok, being an old-school "back yard" installer when i began, gave me 2 immediate possible diagnosis for your problem. I was running a Kicker zx550.3 amp to 2 Polk DB 12'inch Subs rated 600w max 1500w. I also used a LOC converter (Line Output Converter) in order to use my stock Bose stereo since it did not have RCA outputs. Now shortly after running this setup (approx 2 weeks) I noticed a substantial drop in sound output and also noticed some ground noise/distortion coming thru the subs. After tracing my wires that connected my LOC to the Amp, and Rear Speaker Wires of my Radio to the LOC, I noticed that by jostling the wires there was a connection issue. If you are using your factory radio to power your regular component speakers (tweeters, coax, mids) then chances are your stereo feeds into a FACTORY INSTALLED amplifier. If thats the case, then you need to access a Wiring Diagram for the Harness coming off the Factory Amplifier! Once this is viewable, check the wiring and locate the "Amplifier to Radio Signal Wires" and also the "Amplifier to Speakers Signal Wires" ... Now go back to your LOC and look at the wires you tapped to get the Line Signals to the converter, and make sure that you havent tapped your lines off of the AMPLIFIER TO SPEAKER wires. These wires carry a small electrical current because they are coming powered from the Amplifier, and most Line Output Converters are PASSIVE, which could short the signal the LOC creates thus reducing your signal gain, but does have the capability to surge back to the Factory Amplifier, which could possibly melt the shielding of the factory wiring, and thus allow your signal to cross or ground out! If you can, try running another RCA input to your Sub-Amplifier from another source other than your car, and see if your protection lights go out and the amp returns to normal operation. If so then your LOC or Factory amp is to blame. If not, then the second diagnosis is much simpler, which is your Alternator current has been reduced due to many different possibilities, and you should acquire a .5 or 1 Farad Stiffening Capacitor which will reduce the excess draw from your charging system. But due to the first solution being my problem exactly, im willing to bet your's lies along the same variables... GL to you!
Posted on Apr 24, 2010
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