Ice maker not producing ice

If it's similar to my Samsung, mine did the same. There is a reset button at the front of the box which contains the ice cube tray. If you press it, the ice tray rotates to dump the cubes, then refills. Hope this helps.

Remove side panel on left. Dump valve and drain hose usually blocked with silt, but may be dump valve coil open circuit. No float switch, water level sensor above tray.

There is a dual acting water valve that feeds the ice maker and door water seperately.
If your power went out - chances are good the solenoid on the icemaker side of the valve has failed - so it will not open the valve on the demand of the icemaker timer.
To find out - you will need to check that there is voltage at the valve.

With a model #, I can help you better.

Thanks!!

Carefully pour water from small glass into ice maker, until the cavity is near filled. Wait a few hours. If it dumps ice, you can usually rule out the ice maker.
If ice maker dumps, then it will be either a bad water valve, Ice building up in fill pipe going into the icemaker, or blocked water line that runs from your water source to the machine.
Caution. If the fill tube going into the ice maker is filled with ice do NOT
use heat such as a hair dryer to melt it. It will melt things you do not want to melt. If it is this problem, you must also replace the water valve because it is leaking slowly causing your problem.
Lastly, in rare cases, the microswitch in the ice maker fails and does not allow water to enter the icemaker.

remove cube tray from ice maker. clean with limeaway adn rinse. Spray with a light coating of PAM cooking spray. wipe dry and reinstall. be careful not to damage the sensor ( in center of tray)

Try taking the ice despenser out and carefully melt any ice in the freezing tray. Sometimes the ice doesn't fully eject, leaving behind residue that will eventually become too full to produce ice. You can melt it by slow running hot water or hair dryer low speed.

I believe the drain is blocked behind the panel wall inside freezer. You will need to unplug the refrigerator and remove panel and inspect drain at bottom of evaporator. There is a tray with a drain hole on the low end. Also check around area that water enter from back of refrigerator to ice maker. Let me know what you find, Thanks, Sea Breeze

http://servicepartstec.blogspot.com/

If you press and hold the button on the ice maker for seconds it will go into test mode and do a complete cycle. Try this and it should correct the problem. If you think the arm is frozen, you could use a hair dryer on it for a couple of minutes then do the test.
Sgt 48

This is a picture of an ice maker module.  Which is behind the white plastic cover.  The cover just pops off.  Look at the two little tabs in the center of white wheel.  If yours is twisted, pressed together, or one is broken then the module is bad.  If not, take the icemaker out and let it set for a few hours to let it defrost.  Put it back in and see what you get.  The ice maker won't cycle and fill with water until it gets below freezing so you will have to wait awhile.  It can be started manually by inserting a jumper wire into terminal T and H.  Let it start to cycle for about 10 sec. then pull the wire out.  At the end of the cycle it will fill with water then wait for it to freeze.  Also, if door was left open check all vents in fridge for ice build up.  This cause cooling problems of they are plugged.  Let me know what you find.

The real problem is that the drain which carries the defrost water away from the coils (and down to the external pan underneath where it should evaporate) has become plugged with ice (from having left the door open thereby icing up the coils and the drain). The problem you have now is that the normal defrost cycle was not designed to melt the ice plug that is blocking the drain. Solution: You have to either (1) if you're handy, you can remove the plastic panel over the coils in the back of the freezer and melt it out with a hair dryer or hot water -- or (2) unplug the unit, leave the doors open and let it melt out by itself. I don't know how long you'd have to wait for (2) to completely melt the ice plug -- I'm guessing at least 24-36 hours to be sure. I did (1) and it took me about 2 hours to remove the freezer bin and door, remove the main drawer slides, remove the internal drawers and their slides, remove the back inside panel, find the ice plug (lower left side of the drip tray under the evap coils), melt it out with hot water from a baster, verify that the drain was clear, reassemble in reverse order. But it worked. Problem completely solved -- no water since. By the way the drip tray was completely full of ice - right after a defrost cycle had completed -- so this problem will never resolve itself without intervention. Bear in mind, the whole cycle COULD happen again if the drawer is left open again and the excess ice builds up on the coils again. This is a design flaw in the unit itself. However, I read about a clever solution to prevent a new ice plug forming as a result of the open door. Just loop a length of 10-12 gauge bare copper wire around the defrost heater element and insert the other end of the wire in the drain hole. Heat conducted through the wire during defrost will clear any ice plug that may form.