Top left burner (propane) does not seem to be receiving gas when trying to ignite it with electrical igniter (control knob). However the burner can be lit with a match when the control knob is turned past "lite" Thanks for any assistance you can provide.

Hi,
Here is a test you can use to check the ignitors, Ignitor test. I also would like to you turn the thermostat knob slowly from the off position, When do you hear the click in the knob? You should hear it before the warm or lowest numbered setting on the knob. If you don't, replace the thermostat as it has failed. Need full model number to get you part.
Good Luck
Stay dry out there!!

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

Hi,

You may even see the orange "glow plug" (called a hot surface igniter) glowing orange and so assume that it's OK. Not necessarily!! You have to measure the current/amp drawn by the igniter and compare it to this repair sheet before you can say it's OK or not. The gas valve has a bi-metal that open when a certain amount of current flows through it to heat it up. The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. As the igniter gets older or weaker, it's resistance increases to the point where not enough current is flowing to the gas valve bimetal to open it up. As a result, the gas valve never opens up. BTW, a common symptom of the early stages of this problem is erratic temperature control in the oven due to delayed firing of the bake burner while cooking.

The hot surface igniter will not come on - check igniter with a ohm meter, you should have continuity through the glow bar, the glow bar can also crack = new igniter time. The glow bar comes on but the main burner will not light - you should have an amp probe to check properly, but often this is a hot surface igniter problem. The hot surface igniter often looses it's ability to get hot enough to open the gas safety valve. The safety valve can fail, but most times it is just a bad hot surface igniter. The hot surface igniter can also quit part way through cooking , in other words the oven may cycle a couple of times and then it just sits there with the red glow from the igniter. See this service sheet for the proper way and amp readings for the hot surface igniter system. Hot surface igniters do weaken and will eventually generate less heat than they normally could. When this happens they can still allow marginally correct current to flow to the oven gas valve for it to open but not get quite hot enough to ignite the gas burner immediately. When this happens, gas released into the oven can sometimes build up to the point where when finally ignited, the amount of gas lit can cause a small explosion inside the oven or cause an odor of gas with out the oven working. Yes, your glow bar igniter can glow orange-red and still be bad!! How a common gas valve works - click here.

Let me know,if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

There may be a valve under the cook top or under the stove. You will of course have to look. There is really no 'standard' or requriement for a valve to be there.

Another reason for this kind of problem is spiders. Spiders love the smell of propane. If you are sure your gas is ON and you do have fuel in the tanks and the tanks are on, (always have the valves of both tanks open all the time (consistent with the highway regulations in your area) and the selecter lever is pointed left or right (never n the middle!)!) remove each burner and blow it out with compressed air. Simply blow it out with your breath or get some 'canned air' at the computer store.

Does your frig operate on gas? You can force it to run on gas (to check it) by disconnecting the 115 Volts; simply disconnect your main cord. Will your frig come on? How about your heater? and your hot water heater?

YOU MUST have a 12 volt battery connected to your RV - a "HOUSE" battery not a "VEHCLE" battery. Everything in your RV runs on 12 volts except the obvious 115 items like the AC and the microwave and the TV. Do not rely on the 15 amp "converter' to supply all your 12 power requirements which often exceed the ability of your converter to provide.

If you stil have no luck, I suggest you turn off the tanks and disconnect the gas line from the stove. Have an associate turn on the tanks while you observe (smell, watch, listen) the unattached pipe. If you hear, smell or see gas, have them turn it off immediately. Reconnect the pipe and test for gas tightness (use a soap water misture. Bubbles = leak. Next step will be to consider the burner controls. This may not be a DIY job. NOTE: Propane is heavy and will sink to the floor. Make sure you have no open lights or flames when you perform the test above and let the gas excape out the open door.

You don't say how old the RV is and given the thousands of makes and models it really doesn't make a lot of difference. Unlike cars and trucks, manufactures of RV's install what they have subject to many substitutions through out the model year. Typically, newer RVs have electronic ignitions while some older RVs have pilots (NOTE: pilots burn precious limited fuel and generate unnecessary heat) and many are simple match light burners.

I hope I have shed a little light on your trouble and you are able to resolve this problem. If you cannot, of course, you will have to have reservations for supper which will make you or your spouse happy.

I hope you enjoy your camper this summer. Thank you for your interest in FixYa.com and please come again.

turn electricity off to ignitors. remove grates and clean up the burners good, they might have a clogged up hole. gas may not be coming out of burner holes. good-day !! if all else fails, just use a wooden match to light that burner.

This is a pretty common practice; there is normally only one high voltage source, not one for each burner, and is routed to all of them any time one range-top control is depressed. This eliminates the need for 4 individual special high voltage switches to route them to one burner at a time.

Hi,

Here is a tip that I wrote that will help figure out why the burner spark keeps on clicking...

Gas Range Repair Burners Keep on Clicking

heatman101

Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote that will help figure out why the burner spark keepson clicking...

Gas Range RepairBurners Keep on Clicking
heatman101

I just had a tech come to my house and he told me that I need a new glow plug, It's the box to the right of the flame. Looks easy to replace, his visit took 5 minutes and it cost me 143.95 (this doesn't include the cost for the part or to have him come fix it, that will be sometime next week) so if you can get the part and do it yourself I would suggest that.

What happens in this style ignition system is that the thermostat or electronic control switches power to the oven ignitor and gas valve circuit which are connected in series (one after the other). As power flows through the ignitor it heats and draws current (measured in amperage). Once the oven ignitor draws a specific amount of current the oven valve opens to allow gas to flow to the oven burner where the glowing hot ignitor (glow bar) ignites it. Power must continually flow through the ignitor and oven gas valve for gas to be released into the oven burner to create a flame. Once the set temperature is achieved the control stops all power to the ignition circuit which causes the ignitor to dim and the oven gas valve to close, stopping any burner flame. Cycling on and off continues to maintain the specific temperature the control is set for.