Have a 2 gang 2 way switch,one of the lights controlled by this switch is really only one way,the other(landing)light is 2 way.I can not get the 2 way to operate correctly they control a bathroom light and landing light

Assuming both switches are single pole...
One black wire from connects breaker connects to each switch.
One black wire from light goes to light
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#gang

If your switches are 3-way... then re-post new question.

Gene

Water Heater Timers Save Money

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#gang

Is the neutral wire inside the gang box, or is the neutral wire in the ceiling box?

Gene

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#2-lights

Wiring depends on where hot and neutral enter the circuit
Diagrams for both on link

Gene

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

That could be the culprit - right there.

You see, the new dimmers work electronically. There are no moving parts really. Voltages are changed in some very high tech ways thru transistors and triacs. These are comparatively "delicate" devices to the old snap switch and rotary dimmers that had large moving pieces that could handle a large load (like your short via the screw driver) for a short time. Not so with a transistor or triac however. There are so small, they have no way to dissipate heat like the other switches and *instantly* fail. The amount of current in amps needed to blow the transistor or triac is much lower than that needed to blow a fuse or circuit breaker - so that's why it never opened. That is why the instructions often call for removing power at the panel before installing.

So, unless it is a simple wiring error, my money is on a blown dimmer switch. Double check you work and try again with the power OFF.

Good luck!

Copy following link for switch wiring illustrations
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Copy following link for wiring 3-gang switch:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#gang

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

What is 1mm double core?
Following image shows example 120Volt 4 gang switches with outlet.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Single-pole-switches-in-4-g.jpg
Each 120Volt electrical box has one Hot wire. This is true for ceiling and wall boxes.
Normally in a gang box, the Hot wire jumpers across all devices in the box.
Some switch boxes do not have Neutral wire. Neutral wires are usually white, and are twisted together and covered with wire nut and shoved to back of box.
Open following links for typical 120V and 240V circuits in US.
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html

Feel free to add a comment and describe wiring, and voltage.
For example if hot wire arrives from one of the lights.
Describe the wires that you have, and what each wire goes to for best possible answer.

So you're replacing the receptacle in the 2 gang box with a switch that will control a receptacle? If so there's no reason you couldn't use the feed from the receptacle. As long as you maintain the integrity of any existing runs through the box...you're not adding any devices really so there shouldn't be a problem with the branch circuit device count. Bear in mind this stuff has the potential to burn your house down so be real clear on what you're doing and make a good secure job of it. When in doubt call in a pro....

I can help, but I need a lot more specific info. Please use these naming conventions to describe what you have:
G1, G2 -- the two gangs of 4 switches each G1S1 - the first switch in gang 1 L1 - light, appliance or outlet number 1
Describe how each light is controlled as follows: L1 - G1S1 & G2S1 (one light controlled by a pair of 3-way switches) L2,L3 - G1S2 (assumes a normal switch controlling two lights) etc. for all of the L's presently controlled by all 8 switches
Then describe what you want the 6 new switches to operate.

before u start make sure power is off before working with electrical lines ---start with the 12/2 coming into box black [power] white [ground-neutral] and u will have 3 separate lines for the lights so u will have 4 lines total coming in the box== with the 3 light lines take the white and strip back the plastic and connect [wire nut] all 3 to the 12/2 white line --now take the 12/2 black line and connect it to the first switch gold color screw- bottom screw -now take some wire about 2-3 inch strip both ends and connect from the 12/2 black wire connection on the switch and connect to the gold /bottom of switch 2 than do the same for switch 3 connecting the wire from switch 2 so u will have power feeding all 3 switches-- now connect the black lines for the lights to the other side of each switch and ur done