Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly
Often ice maker issues are a symptom of an automatic defrosting problem OR a leaking (dripping / bypassing) ice maker water valve.
First off you should try and prove that there are no un-necessary water leakages by doing the following:
1. Turn the icemaker OFF
2. Remove the plastic line where it connects to the thru the cabinet water tube by pinching the clamp and pulling down on the plastic tube.
3. Place end of the plastic tube into a bucket for about 12 hours. At the end of 12 hours check the bucket for ANY water. If there is a noticable amount of water (more than 1 oz) the water valve is leaking water by the valve diaphram seat. The only remedy for this is to change the units water valve assy.
As far as a possible automatic defrosting problem..... soft ice cream is a symptom along with that of low ice production.
The evaporator coils get a substantial amount of ice build up on them and then the airflow in the freezer compartment is restricted resulting in a change in the freezer comprtment temp. If you do have an automatic defrosting problem you will soon notice noise from the evaporator fan as the ice build up encroaches into the fan blade path. Additionally the fresh food compartment will warm up.
The ice maker will not cycle until it reaches 16 to 15 deg F. The ice maker harvest cycle is started when the ice maker thermostat closes and advances the ice maker module.
Do the water in the bucket test and then look for signs of ice build up on the evaporator coils.
If neither of the above manifest / present then download this manual and follow the troubleshooting procedures:
http://adcxns1.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/8527f904cc8ea8cd85256b5800672333/$FILE/4322658A.pdf
Thanks for choosing FixYa.
Kelly
Hi, Kelly. I have a Whirlpool Mod 4ED5GTGXNQ, manufactured 07/04. It is making ice, but not harvesting. Waiting for my wife to call
Hi again. You rated the post and the problem still exists. Rating the post can cause your post to go dormant. (i.e no one answers in the future)
First off let me say the model number you passed 4ED5GTGXNQ does not cross no matter where I check. Can you re-verify the model number please. (in non US where are you geographically? Ot dpes make a difference where I would look for reference data)
If it is making ice and not harvesting there are a few thing that can cause that.
1. the icemaker thermostat
2. the ice maker midule assy.
3. the optics
4. the inlet water valve leaking by causing the fill funnel to be full of ice so the sweep arm can not cycle. The mold heater can not melt the ice in the funnel that the fill tube termiates into.
Go to pdf page 28 & 29 of this link:
http://adcxns1.whirlpool.com/Service/Srv...$FILE/4322658A.pdf
- tape or hold the door switch plunger (for light and ice maker) in the closed position freezer Light must be off
- perform optics test pdf file page 28
- Remove the ice maker front cover.
- Jumper terminals T to H using a short piece of #12 gage wire with 5/8" bare wire ends for the jumper. (this bypasses the thermostat item 27 this link: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partse...
If it does not cycle.... i.e the mold heater is not warm / hot to the touch on the bottom of the icemaker there is a problem with the optics. See link pdf page 28 for optics. *OR the mold heater in the ice maker has failed. *OR the ice maker module has failed
If it is warm you should see the module white gear rotate until the sweep arm contacts the ice. As the mold heater gets hot it in less than 5 minutes it should continue to cycle, harvest the ice and return to end cycle position then stop. REMOVE JUMPER before the sweep arm reaches 6 o'clock position or it will keep cycling and over fill. If the mold heater is warm and the ice maker still does rotate 1st check for ice at the fill funerl exit. If it is clear.... the ice maker module motor has failed.
Just a note... as I said in my first post... sometimes airflow or automatic defrosting problems can make it appear that there is an ice maker problem when the real issue is that the freezer compartment is not cold enough. You will have ice below 32 deg but... the ice maker will not cycle until the ice maker thermostat reaches 14 - 16 deg F. A slow running evaporator fan can also present itself as an ice maker problem.
A good check of freezer temps is a carton of ice cream. If the carton is spongy the freezer is too warm. If it is very firm then most likely the freezer temp is good. (Freezer thermometer works too!)
I am going to use this Model number 4ED25DQXFN00 as my reference:
Unit parts: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partse...
Ice maker parts: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partse...
-Ice maker module is item 30
-Thermostat item 27
-ice mold with heater: Item 20
-inlet water valve item 10
Optics Emitter and Reciever
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_d...
The manual link first link this post if used "by the book" will show you exactly what has failed. It just takes the time to read and do it.
Kelly
Hi, Kelly. I have a Whirlpool Mod 4ED5GTGXNQ, manufactured 07/04. It is making ice, but not harvesting. Waiting for my wife to call
Just wondering if you read my last post. I read both of your responses 8 hours apart that have exactly the same text ending in waiting for the wire to call.
My second post was quite thorough as was my first. Between the 2 of them and the detailed contained in the manual link anyone that can read should be able to sort out exactly what has failed. I stated the model number did not cross and asked geographically where you were located. I searched US and Europe with no luck using the model number you provided.
Kelly
I did. Is there an email address I can send to directly, since the website appears to be cutting off my text? Thanks.
Hi again,
Look on the upper right side of the page and see if there is an area that says add comment. If there is an add comment line click that and it should bring up an RTF editor. If you do not have the add comment line then email [email protected] and include this link http://www.fixya.com/support/t6041580-wh...
Explain that you can not make a lenghty comment. You can use the contact line on the bottom of this page located on the bottom of the 2nd from the right column.
Kelly
The only add a comment link I have is just below "Was this helpful?" and that's the one that got me in trouble with you on my first try! But I did send an email
Hi once again. First let me say your ot in trouble with me. I only want to help you. I went back through everything you mentioned. after re-reading this statement:
The ice maker is making ice, yet the ice is not dropping into the ice bucket. If you put ice into the ice bucket it will correctly drop through the door. The ice seems to be freezing inside the ice tray and not allowing it to drop. What is the solution to this problem?
Here is the bottom line. The ice maker thermostat has to cycle to drop the ice.
Two things cause the ice not to drop:
1. The freezer is not cold enough due to ice build up / poor air flow in the freezer
or
2. The ice maker thermostat has failed.
If you follow the istructions in the manual link I sent you... with the ice maker front cover off, it has you jumper test point "T" to test point "H" This bypasses the ice maker thermostat and starts the ice harvest cycle.
You can also see those test ponits in the first picture of this link:
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalo...
Now... just because it works when you jumper the thermostat T to H does not mean the thermostat has failed. The model would have to be removed and the thermostat terminals would have to be tested when the thermostat was at or below 15 deg F to make sur that it has failed. It will read open until it reaches 15 deg F and then closes allowing power to start the ice harvest cycle.
If the freezer is not cold enough it will never reach 15 F so if the temp is between 17F and 31F it willmake ice but not harvest the ice.
A good way to tell if the freezer is getting cold enough is to check any ice cream you may have for softness. If it is soft the freezer is too warm. The ice cream should very firm. (you could just buy a freezer thermometer).
One more thing you can do is a manual defrost of the freezer by turning the unit off / unplug it.
Then remove the freezer contents, and place a fan blowing into the freezer compartment for just over 2 hours. (Makes a water mess)
If you do a manual defrost and then within 8 hours you have ice dropping normally into the bin then we are looking at either a slow running evaporator fan or a defrost cycle that is either not happening due to a defrost circuit problem (Thermostat, heater, timer/control) or terminating too early due to a problem with the defrost thermostat. (installed position or sense temp actuation)
Take a look at the link.. try cycling the ice maker with the jumper. If it does not even begin to cycle.. then there is an ice maker power problem that can be caused by the ice maker module / motor or the ice maker connecting harness from the rear compartment connector. Beings that the ice auger works... we can rule out the door switch as a possible failure.
Kelly.
Did [email protected] forward my email to you? No ice drops when I jump from T to H. The bottom doesn't even get warm. Ambient temp in freezer is -7 or so. Too cold? No visible signs of freezing up inside.
I have to apologize to you. The test will not work unless the door / light switch is depressed.
I omitted mentioning that before and am sorry for the omission. Hold the door / light switch in the closed position (or tape it) and then jumper T to H. Major procedural error on my part! If the white dial moves.. (progress) if not then it will be time to chase the ice maker RED power wire and find out where power was lost.
Kelly
Your post arrived via email: (my responses will be in bold) My apologies. First time on this site & did not realize I was rating the post, since I only clicked the "Add a comment" button, not the "yes" or "no" button. Also, I took the model number right from the label on the back, and verify it is what I typed above, now below. It's also the same as the data plate inside the fridge, except that inside, there are two "0's" at the very end. I'm located in Florida. And though I'm also retired military, it was purchased in Daytona Beach, new, in '04. I actually already have the parts manual for the maker, and I did take time and studied the info you provided in the first link. Part of the problem, though is that it appears the site dropped most of my first post & you're still referring me to an optical system, which I do not have. I've recovered my initial post and am resending it, and will also use the concepts of what you wrote above while I wait for your response. Thank you again and apologies again for using the site wrong. Here is my original post: "Hi, Kelly. I have a Whirlpool Mod 4ED5GTGXNQ, manufactured 07/04. It is making ice, but not harvesting. Waiting for my wife to call & tell me where she hid the thermometers, but since everything is frozen very solid (including the cubes in the tray), I'm pretty sure it's hitting the 15-16 degree criteria. The part number on the Motor Module is #S 106 626662. It has the bail system, but after looking at the manual link you provided above & reading the troubleshooting info it, I'm fairly sure it is probably the ice maker thermostat, (If you care to offer a confirming or differing opinion, I'll gladly take it.) Couple of questions: 1) Can you provide a link that would cover my older bail system, rather than the infra-red system of the link above? This is the non-optical link: http://www.american-appliance.com/catalo... I think it might give me more applicable troubleshooting info. 2) In the absence of a link for my system, can you confirm there is no separate shut off for the ice maker, other than placing the bail up? The door switch will cut off power to the ice maker when the door is open. However if the door switch fails, the ice maker will not get power at all via the RED wire. 3) Can you offer any other troubleshooting procedures or ideas about my system. Depress the door switch / tape it depressed and try jumpering T to H. Watch for movement on the large white dial. If the ice maker starts to cycle we may just have a thermostat problem. 4) If it is the thermostat, is this something I can change myself and do you have any info on doing so? (I'm fairly mechanical (an FAA licensed A&P mechanic), have a multi-meter, tools, etc. Thanks in advance for your help." You remove the module by taking out the 3 screws in the module. The bail arm will have to be slid out of the plastic drive post and you will have to unlatch the umbilical harness tab on the lower left side of the ice maker. The thermostat will just pull out of the mold housing face. I have found it is much easier to test it when it is installed if the freezer is cold enough. Thermostat testing* However,... if you need to bench test it, you crush some ice and salt it hoping you can get it cold enough to make it trip. Several times I have had to take off the evaporator access cover and hold the themostat directly on the evaporator coil tubing to get it cold enough. If I am in the field and I have an ice maker with me I just swap it out with a known good thermostat. Since you do not have that option the evap coil tubing comes into play for testing your thermostat. Since these two sends, I'm continuing to narrow it to the thermostat itself and/or heater module. I did do the jumper to bypass the thermostat and it didn't even get the bottom where the heat element is warm. So....seems like that element may be bad. I know it ships with the mold. I have an old mold where the Teflon flaked off. The element in it seems to be good (ohms at 72.0). Wondering why I couldn't remove the element from this old unit and RTV it into the current one with the problem? DO not use RTV. It will melt unless you use a high temp capable RTV / adhesive. As you know from working on aircraft many RTV's are corrosive. Also, is there a way I can verify operation of the thermostat itself? See the last paragraph above * Thermostat testing* Thanks again for all your help. Good luck. I think you may just conquer the beast real soon! Kelly P.s. I retired April 2002, got my A & P in 1984. Haven't touched an aircraft since retirement :) Brief history: http://blog.fixya.com/index.php/2010/05/...
×
702 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×