I have troubles with a to little speakersound i have checked the fuse and its okay its a new one for me this pmp5000 can you tell me i have 1000 watt speakers do they not play loud with this

most have a fuse--may be inside--but usually on rear (twist cap)

Chances are you've blown the output transistors. Speakon connectors cannot short out but jack connectors can and if it was not inserted properly you'll have presented a dead short to your powered mixer. In any event it is really bad idea to connect anything when it's switched on. If you're really lucky replacing the output stage (which will probably be dead short on the transistors) and re-adjusting the bias should sort you out.

The power supply is blown and probably one of the amp channels. Repair will be tedious. They take out from 30 to 50 dollars of components typically.

In bridged mode, both sides are used to drive the same speaker. One side is phase inverted relative to the other so the two sides add their voltage. It is important to note that you cannot go below 8 ohm speaker in this mode. The amps can generate about 60volts peak or about 43 volts RMS. So the net will be about 86 volts between the two sides. With 86 volts on 8 ohms you can get about 925 Watts max... yeah it is not the claimed 1200, but it is a lot closer than the shop vacuums claiming 4Hp when running on 120 volts... Those are peak values that have LITTLE to do with actual true values.

You can't run stereo in this mode because BOTH sides are used as a single power source. The PAN controls will have little effect as the system is in monaural mode.

The JBL EON 305's are 8 ohm speakers. The PMP5000 wi;; produce 400 Watts per side into a 4 ohm load (600 Watts peak). Into your 8 ohm speakers, the peak current will be halved while the voltage remains the same so you ACTUAL power per side is 200 Watts. It is hard to know how much you expect to get out of the amp. This power would fill a venue of at least 2000 sq ft. If you need more sound, try borrowing another 8 ohm speaker for each side and parallel them with the EON's as a test. That will double the power and add 3 Db more of sound. Your main slider should be around unity typically. This amp is a class D switching type (very efficient) and runs on +/- 70 volt rails. giving about 45 volts RMS output. At 4 ohms, this is just over 10 amps giving 450 Watts... at 8 ohms this is around 5 amps or 225 Watts.


Please read my tip on Fixya about the ground hazard of channel A when using 1/4 inch cables out of the PMP units... essentially the BARREL of the connector from channel "A" is the HOT,... NOT the tip of the PLUG. Ground the barrel IN ANY WAY AND YOU FRY CHANNEL "A" AMP !!!

Probably the channel A went. If you are fortunate, the power supply is still OK. There are protection circuits for the speakers, however you MUST use speakers that are rated at over 400 Watts. If you use smaller ones, they can get blown. There is a weakness primarily on insulation for channel A and an arc between layers of a circuit board can wipe out several transistors and a zener diode and sometimes a metering resistor. Once this happens, have unit serviced before using it again as further damage can result.
ALSO PLEASE read my tip I posted on FIXYA regarding a grounding hazard when using Speakon to 1/4 inch speaker cables... essentially the barrel of the 1/4 inch jack of the A channel is the hot lead, NOT the tip for that channel.

If the power supply fried, it is likely one of the power amp channels, usually the rearmost one has fried. There is a weak insulation thing between layers of the multi-layer circuit board that shorts.

DO NOT replace a fuse in a failed unit till problem is fixed as you will LIKELY do more damage!!!!

Usual problem is the Channel A amplifier has burned and blown the switching transistors. Usually an internal board arc occurs and unless very skilled at board work of clearing the burned area and replacing the components you are better to replace the HCA2400 amplifier module... about $160

No! I have two of the PMP5000 and one PMP3000.

I could tell you what parts are blown. If nothing lights up what has happened is the power amp (Usually the rearmost amp) has arced and destroyed the three switching transistors and a Zener diode and sometimes a metering resistor and two surface mounted transistors. So far parts cost is about $20 and a LOT of labor.

Since the fuse blew, it is possible as is often the case, that the power supply is also damaged. Now the total parts cost is $50 as two expensive IGBT's are blown, a regulator IC and four driver transistors for the IGBT's and one other surface mounted transistor and usually a diode. If a fuse has been repalced, then often a pair of power resistors associated with softstart are blown. A lot of labor is necessary on the power supply to remove the heatsinks that the IGBT's are on to replace them.

If the amp module (HCA2400) were the only thing, you can get those online complete for $175. Repair of those requires a lot of skill carving out burned board between layers of the multilayer board and restoring connections with jumpers.

You are probably looking at $300 parts and labor to restore this unit. I fix them for my own use, not others.

There is a weakness in insulation between internal and external layer of the circuit board near the rearmost amp and if you play it real load and had a speaker lead come loose the unit can arc and it is all over. There is also a polarity hazard. PLEASE read my tip on here in that regard about this. This applies to the PMP3000, PMP5000, PMP1280 amps.

If you can see where the power wiring comes into the amp there has to be a fuse in there somewhere as the fuse is designed to cutoff all power when overloaded