At the end of a normal bake cycle, the oven seemed to take off on its own and go into a 'high temp broil mode'. Top element was red hot and control panel non responsive. I had to trip the breaker to shut the oven down. We did see an F2 fault code appear before resetting. Oven seems to be functioning fine this morning. Could this reoccur, i.e., should I have a tech replace anything? Not sure exactly what happened... Thanks, Glenn

Your wiring diagram and parts schematics are here in the link below. Normally the bottom element does glow read hot after a couple of minutes. Broil elements last a lot longer because they aren't used as much. There is only one Control Board. If I was guessing, I would say the temperature sensor is at fault. Elements either work, or they don't, but you can easily test continuity with a meter. Many parts are discontinued.

https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/3f7nkrfnvp-001428/frigidaire-pleb30t8ccb-electric-wall-oven-parts

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How To Fix Oven With Little or No Heat When Baking ...

www.partselect.com/Repair/Range-Stove-Oven/No-Heat-When-Baking/

Repairing a range, oven, or stove can seem like a big task, but our ... Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake... If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not reach the set temperature or ...If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake ...

Electric Stove Repair ' Electric Oven Repair Manual ...

www.appliancerepair.net/oven-repair-4.html

Inside the oven, the heating element is called a "bake" or "broil" element. ... To maintain a set temperature in an electric cooktop, the element is cycled on ... Do not put any cleaning agents or solvents directly on heater elements or surface units. ... A switch will show no continuity when off and good continuity when turned on.

Electric Oven Will Not Heat ' RemoveandReplace.com

removeandreplace.com/2015/.../oven-not-heating-how-to-fix-range-repa...

Aug 24, 2015 - The issue is most likely a bad internal fuse, oven temp sensor, ... oven replacement parts ... Bake and Broil Element Test - Electric Oven Repair ... Dryer Spins But No Heat - How To Troubleshoot Dryer is turning the drum but ... If your dishwasher is completing the wash cycle but will not dry your dishes, we ...

Oven Temperature Not Accurate - Repair Parts ...

THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!

Not 100% sure but my guess. Most electric ovens usually bake with both elements on. The bake element(bottom) is usually on at full power with 240 volts to it. The broil element(top) is usually on at 1/2 power 120 volts to help even out the temperature. My guess is your bottom element is not coming on at all either because it is burned out or something in the control system. So what is happening is the oven is trying to heat to the set temp with only the top element keeping it on much longer than it normally should be on and burning everything. Now if you set the oven for bake and the top is on red hot, you have a control system problem something like a bad selector switch or main control board if the oven has a electronic control.

If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.

THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control.


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced.

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.

THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control.


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced.

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.

The top element (broil element) will come on when you put it in bake only to help the oven temp get to the desired setting. If your temperature is reaching the right degrees you shouldn't have a problem.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

There's a few things that can cause this.

1. Check to see if the both that Bake and Broil elements (burners) are heating up. Check the Broil element in Broil mode.

- during pre-heat the Broil element gets cycled on and off for short time durations to speed up the heating. If the Bake element is not working, then the oven will heat, but very slowly and never reach high temperature.

2. If the elements are both working, then it's possible that you have a bad temperature sensor.

- this is a temperature dependent resistance device that should measure 1080 ohms at 70 deg F (room temp).

3. If #1 and #2 are ok, then the problem is with your oven clock/control unit. We rebuild these at fixyourboard.com.

NOPE!

1. Broil element does not have welded-on legs and will touch the bottom of oven, overheating itself and will end up the same way your bake element did; besides, the bottom of the oven will corrode pretty quick
   
2. Many ovens use both elements during bake cycle
3. self clean cycle uses broil element
4. The bake and broil elements typically have different mounting brackets and screw holes ate in different places
   
5. you'd have to cover the hole, left after removing the broil element, and insulate the wires, which went to broil element
6. the ends, protruding behind the mounting bracket may have different length and different connectors. you may end up shorting the wiring to the casing, which may in turn destroy the control board if there is one
7. Bake elements usually cost only $40-$60. No jury rigging required.

Hope this helps ;)
Good luck!

If it is convection bake you have to turn the temp down (25 degrees or so) that is listed in the recipe.

The broil setting is not used to bake because it operates differently from the bake setting. So, don't go to the broil setting at all.
The element for bake is under the floor of the oven. You have not indicated whether it is gas or electric, but both of these can have issues with the burner or element.

If you are baking on the correct setting and the oven is heating from the bottom, not the top, this can be caused by hot spots that are created by elements/burners.

to check, look under the floor of the oven. Turn the bake heat up to high and see if the flame is uneven. For an electric oven, the color of the element should be evenly red, no brown spots.

If you are using an oven thermometer, move the thermometer to the spot in the oven that seems to be burning things the most.