32PF9964 Power Supply

why new PSU,? if PC dead before say so we fix that. ask.
slimlines use a custom HP PSU, not standard ATX.
the PSU on these also have HP custom fan controls from PC mobo
to the PSU, and will fail using any generic ATX psu.
IT NEEDS TO BE HP ONLY PSU, correct HP P/N#
NO PSU LABEL POSTED BY YOU
NOR THE SOURCE, NOR IF A USED PSU.
and both DC power wires, 24 and 4 pin must be connected or the CPU will be dead. 2 key power cords one goes near CPU,see?
some PSU have 120./240ac switch on the rear, and must not ever be set wrong, and is frankly step #1 OOBE. it..

Bad power supply first, or just the switch. The mother board will keep it from posting, but lights should come on. a bad power supply or switch it will be dead like fred.
If your handy there are many tutorials on diagnosing a power supply on the internet. Usually when it is the mother board there will be a few beeps or flashing lights then a shut down, or frozen pc on boot then death.
But all these symptoms can come from a dead or dying power supply.
http://www.overclock.net/t/96712/how-to-jump-start-a-power-supply-psu-test-a-power-supply-and-components Do this at own risk..

You can try a new PSU with at least 350 watts and that will determine as to whether the PSU is blown.n I'm suprised that a simple card reader would have blown the supply though, I wonder if you have managed to short out the board somehow. I can understand the USB controller chip being blown, but that and the audio too suggests that the power regulation has overloaded the motherboard

Although ATX power supplies conform to various specification guidelines, there is not, unfortunately, a standard ATX power supply. To find a suitable replacement power supply for your machine, we would recommend that you have the following information to hand when making your purchase:

- You will require a PSU with a 24-pin ATX connector, SATA power connectors, and a 4-pin 12V motherboard connector
- Make a note of the wattage of your existing PSU
- Make a note of the external dimensions of your existing power supply
- Be aware that your PSU has a power connector for speakers. Most PSUs do not have this, so you may need to purchase a separate power supply for your speakers.
So it is a slight variation to a standard ATX power supply. If you are not using the speaker power off the power supply, then any standard ATX power supply will work for you

It seems that your unit has some sort of PSU fault, or a problem that is shutting down the Power Supply Unit, PSU. This happens so that no further damage, and possible fire will occur.
You need to take the unit to a reputable service centre/man and ask for a firm "Quote" for the work to be done. It is that sound that gives it away, this is a typical switchmode Power Supply problem.

When a unit shows these symptoms it generally indicates that your unit has some sort of PSU fault, or a problem that is shutting down the Power Supply Unit, PSU. This happens so that no further damage, and possible fire will occur.
You need to take the unit to a reputable service centre/man and ask for a firm "Quote" for the work to be done.

Hello there martinsjak.

Here's your GEEK-steer ...

First, I'll presume you have of course "lamp-tested" the wall power outlet, as well as the power strip outlet you using, and that also the power cord is in good repair.

With that out of the way, kudos are in order, because your suspicion of the Power Supply Unit (PSU) is very well founded. It is THE most common PC component to fail. Although it could also be the case power button/switch itself, it's likeliest to be the PSU. But regardless of which, the easiest way to find out is to test the PSU.

You have three options:

1. Manually test it using a multimeter ... Yuk! Only a guy with a plastic pocket-protector (and thinks it's impressive) would pick this one.
2. Install the suspect PSU into a KNOWN GOOD working PC. If the PC powers up, you know the PSU works. If not ... well you get the picture.
3. Test it using a PSU Tester. This is a surprisingly desirable option. Why? Because PSU testers are not very expensive, and if you're like most everyone else in this modern era, you'll be in need of testing more than just this one over the course of time. Check out this very solid choice for a Coolmax PS-224 ATX Power Supply Tester.

Which of the above three is your call. Easy-peasy, yeah?

Good luck to you, and thanks for posting back ...

• to let me (and others) know how things worked out,
• if you have any further questions,
• to provide clarification or feedback.

"Today's the best day of my life ... and NOW you're part of it!"
Via-con-Dios and Godspeed -- Craig

If you have a multimeter, you can test the voltage at one of the spare Molex plugs (power plugs that feed the hard drives and CD/DVD drives). If it reads anything other than +/-5v or +/-12v for either the red and its black pair or the yellow and its black pair, then your power supply is bad.

You can take the power supply out and have it tested at a PC shop. Note the positions of all of the cables coming from it for later. If it needs to be replaced, get one of the approximate same size in watts.

The situation you describe is usually 1 of 2 things, Power supply (PSU) or Motherboard (mobo).
Situation #1: If you get a blank screen and no sounds or movement it either indicates that the power supply unit (PSU) has failed or something on the motherboard has failed, preventing normal startup. Fans are usually the first thing to get power, then the mobo for the Power on Self Test (POST).
Situation #2: You might get some power lights coming on and some fans spinning but the video output does not happen and normal startup sounds do not take place, usually indicates that motherboard is going out or has gone out. OR it may be due to a weak (damaged) PSU.
Always try a different power outlet that you know is working. (Eliminate the easy stuff first!)
If it is out of warranty, try opening up the case, with the power off, of course. Also take this time to inspect the capacitors on the motherboard (they look like tiny soda cans) and check for tops that are bulging, swelling or leaking anything. Capacitors should be perfectly flat on top. If you find these then your motherboard is bad (well technically the capacitors on your motherboard are bad). The bad caps will need replacing to fix (not a job for an amateur). If it passes the visual inspection then it may just be your power supply is bad. Notice that a bad PSU does not mean you are getting no power, just not enough to start and run the computer.
A few years ago a company stole the recipe for making capacitors and started making their own capacitors at really cheap prices. The stolen "recipe" was not complete and not correct so these caps started failing after about 2-3 years of use. Emachines, DELL and Gateway were the computer companies most affected by the bad capacitor issues, although any of the big companies could have the same problem. These bad caps also affected power supply makers.
Since you have tried removing components then it looks like you have narrowed it down to either the power supply or motherboard. If your motherboard looks ok and if you can get another power supply that has an output watts that is greater or equal to the one that you have, try replacing that first.

Hi ralopez satx,
I have provided a link to the service manual, with a multimeter you should be able to track down the problem. Let me know if I can help and please rate this solution. Lone99star in Texas also

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_77a19afa8d604dee