Washer stops in middle of cycle. Comes up with code d5. My wife pushed something on and off 3 times and came up with a code of f71

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.
D5 is a lid switch error. It comes on when there are 3 complete cycles without a lid switch actuation. Either the lid switch has failed or something is causing the lid switch to not sense lid movement. This is a proximity type switch that uses a magnet to actuate the switch. Check to see that both the switch is in place and that the lid itself is not loose at the hinge or shifted to one side.

The lid switch is item 90 of this link:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5130746

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=3204102

You can try to unplug it for 6 minutes and plug it back in again to clear the code but if the lid switch is bad you will get the D5 code again. Not only that if you have children around it is not safe to leave the washer un-attended with a bad switch because the machine will not stop spinning in the spin cycle with a bad switch. If they lift the lid and stick their hands inside the end result can be quite horrific.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

It is either a bad control or a broken wire.


Oasis manaul

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Hi,

F71 points at a connection error between button pad and control board.

Please read the indications in this article: F70 and F71 are two logic board error codes...

Regards.

We've owned a Whirlpool Duet Washer (WFW9200SQ00) for about 3 years. We started getting the F70 error code intermittently about 6 months ago and it seems to progressively be getting worse. Unplugging the unit for a few minutes resets the error, but it comes back about every 2nd or 3rd load causing my wife a lot of frustration and with 4 kids, our laundry was backing up. After reading several Forum's, I found the F70 error code indicates a "heartbeat" communication error between the various electronic boards inside the washer and the consensus seems to be the most likely culprit is the Motor Control Unit (MCU) board. Before spending nearly $250 for a replacement board (http://www.helpfulparts.com/servlet/the-5733/8183196/Detail) with no guarantee that it would fix the problem, I decided to take the board out of the machine and inspect it. What I found is the connector for the communication (the connector with three blue wires) on this board is a very unreliable connector that uses the edge of the printed circuit board on one side of the connection instead of a real connector soldered to the board. In addition, the fit of this connector seems to loose to make a good connection. I noticed a little bit of corrosion on the board contacts which I cleaned with rubbing alcohol and a pencil eraser. After re-installing the cleaned board we've done several loads with (keeping my fingers crossed) no errors. I am still concerned about the reliability of this connection. Because of it's location, this board is subject to a fair amount of vibration and because of the loose fit I'm concerned that this issue will only come back over time. I've already decided that if the error comes back I will solder wires to the contacts on the board to provide a more robust connection. It's a shame that you can spend well over $1,000 on a top of the line washer, and in order to save $.10 Whirlpool decided to use a very poor connector in a critical area. It makes you wonder where else did they skimp to save a few pennies?!! Our next washer will not be a Whirlpool, and next time will not get a high end washer with all the bells and whistles.

The F70 and F71 error codes on this model of washer indicates a communication problem between the user interface control board and the central control unit (main control board). These error codes can sometimes be caused by a power surge or glitch through the electrical lines. Try unplugging the washer to completely disconnect electrical power. Wait 1 minute and then plug the washer back in to the see if the fault code clears. If it does, then the washer may work normally.

If the code reappears, then you could have a wire harness connection problem, a failed user interface control board or a failed central control unit. I recommend calling a service technician to properly diagnose and repair this type of problem so that the correct component can be replaced.


Be sure your unit is plugged into a 3 prong grounded outlet as well.


F71 is a "heatbeat failure" which means that your front interface control board is shorted and will need to be replaced. it's actually fairly easy to replace and can definitely be done by yourself. To access the part, just pull the unit forward and remove the 3 screws coming in from the back of the top panel. Remove the top panel by pulling it back, up, and off. Then remove all the screws going into the top of the control panel. Remove the dispenser drawer and remove the screws coming in through the dispenser. Remove the screws coming from the inside of the dryer going forward into the control panel, then remove the control panel (it's just clipped in on the bottom. After that you can disconnect the wire harnesses to the front interface control board and replace that part.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

It seems the only solution any one has is to pull the plug. If this doesn't solve problem replace board. Seems to me if so many people have this same problem with fairly new washers its a design flaw and should be addressed by whirlpool. $600 for a new board seems outrageous for a new washer.

After power outage that will happen do this to fix.
Select PAUSE/CANCEL twice to cancel the cycle. Select
DRAIN & SPIN if there is excessive water in the washer.
Re-select cycle and press START. If the problem remains, call
for service.

next time it stops raise lid on right side at edge of opening will be a small opening where lid switch is push down switch with pencil or something small enough to fit if it starts working replace switch ..if switch is not at that location may be under hinge left rear if that is the case ck hinge screws

It sound like a loose or a broken lid switch issue. The lid switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washer to get to the switch. Good luck!