Broken right speaker

Anything I tell you is going to be a guess, since there has been no testing done, and we don't have the model number of the specific radio involved. However...
For a 20 year old radio, the volume and balance is almost certainly controlled by a potentiometer that has input into one leg of the fixed resistance, and the other leg (of the fixed resistance) is grounded. The movable center tap is the output to the amplifier - and its position controls the volume to that channel. If the ground leg becomes disconnected (broken wire, or a cold solder joint, or even a break in the resistor within the body of the potentiometer) then instead of "dividing" the volume, it simply provides a slight resistance inline - short answer: It goes full volume.
You can try running the control full range back and forth, and even just the old time "slap it" approach, to see if you get any static or change. If you do, that pretty well confirms the diagnosis. [If not, it just means the break is not close to touching - still almost certainly the right answer though.]
Only fix is going to be disassembly. You then may be able to find the break (and resolder it), and/or replace the volume potentiometer. Note that if you have remote volume/balance control (controls on the steering wheel), then there is some extra wiring that can likewise be involved. jk

Right output transistor is fried, replace . Take old ones (both left and right) to radio shack for new replacements.Replace BOTH

I have the same problem sir, only the speaker with volume
control works. Earlier I used to twist the volume control this
way and that way to get the sound from the other speaker also.
Now the same technique doesn't work anymore.

check mute button on remote and on front of tv also check for speaker wires broken are chewed up are broken by animals are rodents are came loose
also go in to the menu ans make sure it is setup right

JUST ADJUST THE BALANCE IN THE VOLUME CONTROL, YOU CAN FIND IT IN THE CONTROL PANEL OR AN ICON AT THE BOTTOM RIGHT OF YOUR SCREEN, THE RIGHT NEXT TO THE CLOCK.. PLEASE VOTE FOR MY POST

the only way is o replace the wires from end to end.. you may have to do some soldering inside the subwoofer and the satellite speakers

Dell (Altec Lansing) A425 Subwoofer Pinouts

This is a standard female DB-9 serial port.
Here are the pinouts.

Pin 1 = Left Speaker Out +

Pin 2 = Left Speaker Out - (Common Ground)

Pin 3 = Left Line In +

Pin 4 = Right Line In +

Pin 5 = Left/Right line In - (Common Ground)

Pin 6 = Right Speaker Out +

Pin 7 = Right Speaker Out - (Common Ground)

Pin 8 = Power A

Pin 9 = Power B

Jumper (short) Power A to B to turn on.
If you want a volume control you need to put one on the inputs. You will buy buy a stereo volume control or potentiometer.
Here is some info on how to do this.
http://g4tv.com/screensavers/features/43665/Pump-Up-The-Volume.html

Cheers!

the screen is 3 pieces...and need to be flat to one another..kids (husband and son) might have knocked them apart..just need to put the screen back together and put them back into the groove.

After I posted my problem, I browsed a bit further through the other posts and solutions, until I came across the excellent solution of TrickyTrev34 and gave it a try. However, I did not slice the cable, but did it as follows: <p> 1. Switch off power of the sound system on the subwoofer box. Disconnect the Front Right (FR) speaker box (the one with the volume control) from the subwoofer box.<br>
2. Remove the silver coloured metal oval on which the speaker box stands. Now you'll see a small screw at the bottom of the speaker box. remove it.<br> 3. Carefully remove the silver coloured metal protection plate (with all the little holes) from the front of the FR speaker box by wedging it from the top with a flathead screwdriver or other thin blunt object. Now you'll see the speaker and 4 holes with screws inside. Remove screws and speaker box opens up..<br> 4. Inside you should see six wires (Red, Blue, Yellow, White, Green & Black). Carefully cut the GREEN wire only. Insulate the both ends of the GREEN wire with electrical tape or heatshrink or similar.<br>
5. Put the FR speaker box back together in reversed order.<br> 6. Connect FR speaker back to the subwoofer box. Make sure the volume setting on your PC is very low, because when you switch back on the power of the subwoofer, you should be blasting again.<br>
<p> As TrickyTrev34 already mentioned, the only downside of this procedure is that it will disable the volume control on the FR speaker, but who cares, your sound system works again, and you can still control the volume via the PC playback control panel and/or the multi-media keyboard if you have one.<p>Thanks for giving the lead trickytrev34.

Guys,

In case my nickname does not show, this is treefarmer. I had the same problem and decided to fix it myself over this Christmas. I was successful, and here is what I found.

In my case, the problem lies with the volume control chip ( it has a voltage controlled amplifier, or VCA in it) on the main amplifier board. The voltage which controls the volume for all channels comes from the right front speaker. There is an issue with the I.C., in that it has some abnormal loading (leakage) of the volume control signal at the I.C. pin. You need about 5.2 volts for full volume output, and on my system, I can only get about 1 volt. You can find the IC data sheet (Mitsubishi M51132L) here:

datasheet.html">http://www.datasheetarchive.com/M51132L-datasheet.html

The parts inside the enclosure get quite hot under normal operation, and I would not be surprised if this I.C. has an issue with degradation under high temperature. Regardless of the problem, I managed to get the volume back with one simple fix.

If you can open up the right front speaker, place a 10 kohm resistor in parallel with R1, which should have three orange stripes, and one gold stripe. This fixed mine, but this might only be temporary, depending on how much worse the volume control I.C. becomes.

I did check out the power supply, including transformers and everything else, and they all look fine. It would surprise me if the transformer failed as has been posted in other forums. They should be able to survive higher temperatures than the other electronic components in the box, especially when most of them are consumer grade parts with a max temperature of 70 C. One thing of note is that turning off the right front speaker pretty much shuts off most of the quiescent current draw of the amplifier board. I found that with only the sub cabinet switch on, nothing gets warm. You won't see significant warming of the interior components until you turn on the right front speaker. However, then the inside of the sub enclosure gets pretty hot (too hot in my opinion) just sitting there with all the speakers powered up.

I would recommend at least turning off the Right Front speaker when the computer is powered down. More often if you are not listening to anything. I don't think you need to shut off the sub enclosure to keep things cool, but turning off everything ensures that the amp is not sitting there cooking itself. And, unless Altec has changed the design, I would bet new systems will fail in the same manner.

For what that's worth. Hopefully somebody will find this helpful

TF