Light bulbs My GE 1660 micro goes through light bulbs like crazy. I replace the tubular 40W bulbs every 2-3months with GE bulbs but they keep burning out. Any ideas what is causing this?

You know how when you turn on a regular light bulb and it burns out with a bright flash? What happens is that when the filament burns out, it breaks and bounces back and hits the other electrical post and basically shorts out causing that bright flash. Sometimes, when 1 of the light bulbs in the microwave burned out, it shorted out, and caused the circuit-board trace to burn up. (This is not just conjecture; I've seen it.) If that's the case, then you would have to replace the main control circuit board. A rather expensive repair for no lights. BUT BEFORE YOU DO THAT, get an ohmmeter and check your new light light bulbs and make sure they are really good. Also, if you can, get a bright flashlight and check the light bulb sockets in the microwave (unplug it first). Check for possible corrosion or signs of arcing on the center electrode of the socket. If that's the problem, you might be able to use a small screwdriver to scrape off the corrosion of the socket (make absolutely sure you have your microwave oven unplugged before you do that!).

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The service manual is here.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

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The cooktop light is 120V, 40W max., part number WB08X10051.

That's all covered on page 27 of your owner's manual here.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number from the tag on the oven or part numbers here.

To replace the inside light, you'd need to remove the oven from the wall, and take off the outer cover.

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Remove the screw from the lens cover and open lens. Turn light bulb counter clockwise and remove. Repeat this on other side. The bulbs or 40W appliance bulbs. Take the old one with you to hardware store to match it up. Reverse your steps to put new ones in.

You can find and order them easily by entering your full model number from the tag in or on the unit and also find helpful exploded view diagrams here.

Also, your owner's manual should cover that, and they usually have the GE part number inside. You can download them here.

Note that these are likely halogen bulbs, so do not handle them with bare skin. The oils on the skin will reduce their service life.

If after replacing the bulbs, they still won't work, won't shut off, or you have trouble with the fan or turntable, the filaments may have shorted, causing a surge which damaged your control circuit board.

We see (and repair) this a lot. The problem is on the control panel, which we regularly repair nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in about a week or so.

At our Web site, you can get details of our service, plus we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

This light failure often occurs when a bulb goes out and the filament shorts, or when the bulbs are removed or installed without first unplugging the oven from the power line. Either can cause such a failure on the controller.

The lights can can be inoperable or stuck on or stuck in "night light" mode. Sometimes this will similarly affect the fan operation or inside light, too.

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From the owner's manual:

Cooktop Light/Night Light

On models JVM1850, JNM1851, DVM1850 and EMO4000, replace the burned-out bulb with a 120 volt, 40-watt incandescent bulb (WB36X10003), available from your GE supplier.

On models JVM1870, JVM1871, JVM2050 and JVM3670, replace the burned-out bulb with a 120 volt,
20-watt halogen bulb (WB36X10213), available from your GE supplier.

To replace the bulb(s), first disconnect the power at the main fuse or circuit breaker panel or pull the plug.

Remove the screw at the left edge of the light cover and push on the right edge of the cover to open.

Be sure the bulb(s) to be replaced are cool before removing.

After breaking the adhesive seal, remove the bulb by either gently turning (for models JVM1850, JNM1851, DVM1850 and EMO4000) or pulling straight out (for models JVM1870, JVM1871, JVM2050 and JVM3670).

Replace with the same size and type bulb.

Raise the light shield and replace the screw.

Connect electrical power to the oven.

Oven Light

Replace the burned-out bulb with a 120 volt, 20-watt halogen bulb (WB36X10213), available from your
GE supplier.

To replace the oven light, first disconnect the power at the main fuse or circuit breaker panel or pull the plug.

Remove the top grille by taking out the screws on top of the grille that hold it in place and sliding the grille to the left (opening the door makes grille removal easier).

Next, remove the light cover.

On some models, the light cover is located in the center of the top opening.

Remove the screw that secures the light cover and lift the cover off.

On some models, the light cover is located at the left of the top opening.

Lift the cover off.

Pinch the clips that hold the light socket in place and lift the socket out.

Remove the bulb from the light socket by pulling straight out.

Replace with the same size and type bulb, then replace the light socket and cover.

Replace the grille and screws.

Connect electrical power to the oven.

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I have the same problem. The left one burns out within a couple of hours use, the other one lasts a couple of months and is then gone. This pattern has repeated over 8 years. I replace them every now and then and then just go without until I get the urge again to fix it. Maybe smaller lower wattage lamps are worth trying...

In effect (given the unit is wired correctly) without insulation on the socket, you have an exposed neutral wire in your oven -- this is certainly not as dangerous as an exposed hot wire, but does present risks. I recommend replacing the light sockets -- you'll sleep and cook a lot better.

Hi Mike.

Difficult to say on yours. You may try the following. On the back or side, if there is a little cover that's screwed into the panel. Otherwise browse around on the inside. Be sure to unplug the micro before checking. Once found be sure to replace with a microwave lamp and not a fridge lamp. There is a difference. Good Luck,JUS004

That does sound odd! On one hand, I would suspect that maybe the door is getting slammed and that vibration may be contributing to the failure. But that would be much more likely for an incandescent bulb than a fluorescent type. Which is yours? You may have a bad connection on the socket which is causing some excess heat. Does the blown bulb look funny on the ends or at the connection? Assuming you're using the bulb your manual calls for, and the socket is okay, it may be a problem on the control board. Once you've digested this reply, let me know what you find and we can take it from there.