The vent is stuck in the "up" position. The fan still works. The switch was removed and tested and seems to open and close. Any other suggestions

might try spraying white lithium grease on the slides and open and close few times my g6 did the same thing grease it and open and closed a few times then it work

On - OK
1 Blink - Ignition failure. Check Gas flow, gas pressure, gas valve, flame sensor.
2 Blinks - Closed pressure switch. Check pressure switch (stuck in closed position).
3 Blinks - Pressure switch - failre to close. Check venter, pressure switch, vent blockage.
4 Blinks - Open limit switch. Main limit or aux limit are open. (My comment - Means overheating in chamber. Often result of blocked intake air. Bad filter. In my case, plastic wrap had been sucked into the intake. )
6 Blinks - False flame sensed. Check sticking gas valve.
Rapid continuous blinking - Incorrect twinning, incorrect primary polarity. Reverse transformer secondary leads, reverse primary wires.

Closed pressure switch can be from dirty combustion vents, bad chamber pressure - like missing screws, maladjusted gas pressure, failing pressure switch, loose hoses, moisture in the hoses or fan blades The switch need to be closed to ge the unit to work

Hello,

The t-state set to fan "ON" will only cycle the fan to turn on only nothing else. "Auto" is where you always want the t-state on when you want to have heat and have the fan cycle off automatically after the t-stat has reached set point.

As for the press switch, there can be two things that will cause the pressure switch not to close. 1: obviously the switch itself and 2: the inducer fan, this has the rubber tubing that connects to the pressure switch.

When you call for heat, the inducer fan ( small fan with black plastic piece that spins ) is the first to turn on, this fan makes sure any left over exhaust air/gases are vented out before the burners turn on, it also stays on the entire heat cycle to exhaust the gases. The pressure switch needs proof of air so the pressure switch closes with the vacuum that is being created by the inducer fan in that rubber hose that is connected to the pressure switch. This allows the furnace to know " my induce fan is working, lets proceed".

So,

I would make sure your inducer fan is working. if you don't see it working then I recommend using a multi-meter ( VAC setting) and checking that you have 120volts supplied to the inducer fan. if you don't, then you need to work backward from there and see why you don't. If you do verify 120volts at your inducer motor, then more than likely it failed and will need a new one. Witch out this, your pressure switch wont close.

If your inducer fan is working fine then make sure you have 24vdc across you pressure switch (again with a multi meter but with VDC setting not VAC). 24vdc in and 24vdc out. If you only have 24VDC in but not out, then you pressure switch may be stuck open. ( This is if your inducer fan is working properly).

I hope this helps. Sorry for the long response. I just don't like people changing parts and wasting money.

it probly cam off track if u can get something in there to push it along a little it will probly go down

I the short answer is yes. The truck has a flow-thru vent feature as does most GM products. When the fan switch is off the outside air would flow into the truck.
I thought you could still direct the air by way of the control panel, but by the wiring diagram it looks like everything is disabled when the fan switch is in the off position.

In side by sides if the fridge side not working correctly it means that the air vent from the freezing unit has stuck in the closed position which causes the fridge to not be any where near as cool as it should be and if it is too cold then the vent is stuck in the open position. The vent is controlled by a small sync motor and either the motor has become faulty, the control module is faulty or the vent is iced up, which can be caused by putting too many hot items in the fridge so the steam condenses and freezes the vent in position and then the motor cannot open or close it causing it and / or the control module to become faulty. Other times it is just old age that causes the motor and / or the control module to fail. Best call a service engineer asap.

HI, you will need to inspect the compressor to make sure it is cycling in intervals. if the compressor is not cycling, this will confirm compressor failure. The evaporator fan blows cold air into the freezer and from there it vents into the refrigerator. Occasionally the vents between the freezer and refrigerator can become clogged with ice, food or other debris. In most refrigerators the cold control for the refrigerator opens and closes these vents. That mechanism may become inoperative resulting in the vents becoming stuck open or closed.

Inspect the vents to determine what is preventing the free flow of air. An overcrowded refrigerator or freezer may be the cause. In other cases the vents may need to be cleaned or ice melted away. To remove a build up of ice, use a hair dryer set to "low". Using a higher setting may damage the freezer. CAUTION: Do not let melting ice drip onto the hair dryer. In some models, the vent is located under the temperature control console. The housing either snaps into place or is held in place with screws. Remove the screws, or gently depress the retaining clips with a small screwdriver. Allow the housing to hang by its wiring. A freezer vent control may also have to be removed to access the vent. In some freezer-on-top models, it may be necessary to remove the floor of the freezer to inspect for obstructions.

The condenser coils dissipate heat. If dust and debris accumulate around the coils, your refrigerator may not be able to cool properly, it may run continuously or it may stop completely as a result of an overheated compressor. You should clean rear-mounted coils once a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Refrigerators are heavy, never tip one forward or backward. Never attempt to move a refrigerator without an assistant. Vacuum or brush the coils. If coils have a filmy build-up, use warm soapy water to clean them. Take care not to spill or drip water onto the components of the refrigerator.You should clean floor level coils at least twice a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Vacuum or brush the coils. Remove the grill from the front of the refrigerator and use a vacuum with a wand attachment to remove any dust and debris. The grill should snap off and on. Pull firmly toward you and possibly upward to remove the grill. If it does not come off with a modest effort, check for screws or retaining clips that may hold it in place.

Another inspection point will be the door seals. This is a easy way for the cold air to escape from your unit as well. thsi will cause the temperature to rise. The seal should make smooth continuous contact with the refrigerator case. When the seal does not seal completely, warm air enters the appliance. This results in more frequently compressor operation and possibly the inability of the appliance to maintain proper temperature. To test the seal, use the dollar bill test. Place a a dollar bill or a piece of paper between the seal and the refrigerator and close the door. Now pull the paper out. You should feel tension as you pull. Retest along the entire door seal. Replace the seal if the test was unsuccessful.

Next will be the door switch. The interior light in most refrigerators, and the fan in some, is controlled by a door switch. When the door is closed, the switch is depressed and the interior light goes off and the fan resumes normal operation. If the door is misaligned or the switch malfunctions, the refrigerator may become warm as a result of the non-operation of the evaporator fan and the heat generated by the interior light. Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to zero when the probes touch the terminals. With the probes still touching the terminals depress the switch, the reading should change back to infinity. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.

Be sure to confirm evaporator fan function as well. if the fan is defective, it will prevent proper cooling as well.

This will conclude the most common issue with a under preforming unit. I would advise to check all the above and, if the unit continues to not cool after all the above adjustments are made, i will recommend replacing the cold control device and thermostat.

hold the switch down for around 20 seconds and it reset the sun roof /in close position

Sunroof relay control module 99 seville

so you mean the vents in the refer/frezer sections? yes ok there is a fan in the frezer section that moves the air thru out the box.its called the evaporator fan.you should hear a vissssss sound when you open the doors.some boxes you have to push the door switch closed with finger because fan goes off win door open.test fan with volt meter,should get 110 volts[may have to push that door switch in when testing]if voltage and not turning get new fan.hope that helps God bless ,tom