Heres a way to save you a lot of time. remove the two bolts that hold the master cylinder to booster, leave all brake lines connected, pull master away as far as it will go, you may have to pull on the line some, next go inside and remove the pin to remove the rod from brake pedal, you can let brake switch stay, back to booster, remove vacuum line from booster, back inside the car remove the 4 nuts that hold the booster to firewall, make sure rood is clear, go out and pull booster out and remove, install new booster make sure rod hooks to pedal before bolting it up, because sometimes the rod may go in the wrong direction, reverse directions to install, when your done theres no need to bleed brake system. hope this helps.
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I would check the medium sized rubber hose that goes to the brake booster from the inlet manifold as it can swell internally and prevent vacuum getting to the power booster. Replace if necessary. I would also check all those pesky little rubber vacuum hoses that are used for pollution control. They tend to go hard and split where they connect to the metal piping if they are over 10 years old, allowing air / vacuum leaks into the inlet manifold. It could also mean that the rubber diaphragm inside the brake booster has developed a leak and causing loss of power assistance.
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johnjohn2 what tool would you use to loosen bolts inside? threads from bolt stick out too far and deep socket will not fit in tight space?
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