My BN200 nailer has a crimped Oring. After firing once it stratd blowing air out the back port. I toke it apart a reajusted the Oring. after firing once it started blowing air out he back port again. How repalcing the Oring fix the problem or is the more to the problem?

have you oiled this tool .and if so are you sure this tool uses oil.because some nailers do not use oil and if you oil it they will most likely stop working .if this is the case you will need to take it apart and clean it with a mild cleaner .we use a water base cleaner to keep it from damaging the orings. if this doesnot fix it you will probbly need to put a Oring kit in it.you shoul be able to get this a ereplacement.com .i hope this helps you out.

Nice video, you did not mention a model number so I will give you general information. If your nailer is oil free type (gun will have stamped on body, no oil ), and you have been using oil directly or indirectly, most likely rubber diaph. is bad or leaking slightly thru head. Replace headvalve. If your nailer uses orings in the head /headvalve instead of diaph. type firing valve, remove head pull headvalve and apply plenty of white grease or silicone paste and retest. If gun works with grease then most likely needs oring kit and or trigger valve or orings in the trigger. If the gun still will not function correctly with grease in the head, then orings in the trigger are worn. Good luck

Check band # 175520 (black rubber band around the outside of the cylinder) is what causes the piston to retract. If the check band is in place, then problem could be caused by cracked lower bumper, worn piston oring or cylinder seal on the headvalve. IF the cylinder seal is bad, air will leak between seal and the top of the cylinder and could push piston down cylinder. If piston oring is too loose, the piston will not stay at the top of the cylinder. If you point the nose of the gun up then down again and the driver moves within the cylinder, replace the oring. Good luck

This problem is caused by air leaking past orings in the head valve. Remove head and pull out the head valve. The metal surface on the head where oring makes contact should be smooth and oring should fit snugly. Of scratched or deep groove, or if oring is worn, the gun will not fire (sand with very fine paper or replace head). Also examine the headvalve where smaller oring makes contact. If small scratches are visible, remove with very fine paper or replace. To test if head valve is the problem, remove head and headvalve and apply plenty of white grease where orings make contact and replace head then test. If the gun fires, air was leaking past the orings. Good luck

sounds like you need to replace the oring around the firing pin piston , or replace the oring or band around the cylinder that the firing pin goes in , it should be the smaller oring that has tiny holes behind it when removed

Here are a few tests for you to try. You will need a piece of rubber or coiled up old hose.
First open side door and remove nails. Tilt gun head down then up again to check if piston is loose in the cylinder. The piston should stay in top position. If piston drops to bottom of cylinder remove head and replace piston oring or apply some layers of teflon tape under oring to expand oring slightly untill piston stays at top but still can be pushed down cylinder (look at the lower bumper to make sure that it is not cracked or missing pieces, if it is breaking up the pieces can lodge within the air path to the feeded piston). If driver piston now stays at top, connect air to gun and with side door open contact gun to rubber firing gun noticing the feeder movement. With very rapid firing of the gun, the feeder should move back and fourth just as fast as the driver moves. If the feeder seems to move slower than the driver moves then check/replace spring in feeder piston chamber. If spring seems strong enough in your opinion then problem is restriction in the air supply to feeder, if air path is clear then replace orings to feed piston. You will need to remove the two 6m allen screws at front of gun and split gun apart to check restriction at the oring sealing these two parts. Sometimes debris traped at oring (white oring) will restrict air to feeder. Good luck.

Here are a few tests for you to try. You will need a piece of rubber or coiled up old hose.
First open side door and remove nails. Tilt gun head down then up again to check if piston is loose in the cylinder. The piston should stay in top position. If piston drops to bottom of cylinder replace piston oring or apply some coils of teflon tape under oring to expand oring slightly untill piston stays at top but still can be pushed down cylinder. If piston stays at top connect air to gun and with side door open contact gun to rubber firing gun noticing the feeder movement. With very rapid firing of the gun, the feeder should move back and fourth just as fast as the driver moves. If the feeder seems to move slower than the driver moves then check/replace spring in feeder. If spring seems strong enough in your opinion then problem is restriction in the air supply to feeder. You will need to remove the two 6m allen screws at front of gun and split gun apart to check restriction at the oring sealing these two parts. Sometimes debris traped at oring (white oring) will restrict air to feeder. Good luck.

This is pretty common with brad nailers

Remove the brads from your gun - disconnect from the air supply
On the front of your gun is a latch - open it
Check the sliding surface for build up of dirt or small pieces of metal from the brads.
Once clean polish the surface with a fine steel wool or a small brass brush
Reassemble with a drop of machine oil on the sliding surface
Oil your gun as you normally would
Using a piece of soft wood dry fire the gun 10 or so times to ensure that the dents it is making in the wood are all pretty even
Reload and nail something

Get a gasket kit---sounds like top seal around barrel

Hi,
You need a new trigger valve TVA6.