I would like the normal operateing pressures in a 70* space with a box temp of 10* this is a 404a unit

Need more info.
Generally, Hoshi freezers have 2 sensors and a limit in the evap compartment. One sensor is for conditioned space temp, one is for evap temp, and limit if for the heater.
Basically, while in defrost, the controller monitors the evap temp, and when it reaches approx. 70 degrees, the defrost should terminate. The limit kills power to the heater should it get too hot prior to defrost termination. I would first check to see if heater is getting power, if not, check the limit as they go bad frequently. If it is getting power but the defrost termination is happening too early, I would replace the probes first as it is the cheaper route and even if the controller is bad, I would not replace it without doing the probes too. The safety in the controller is usually set for if the unit does not terminate defrost on temp, it will terminate on time, usually 1 hour set at factory specs. Let me know if you need any further help.

this is a large misconception of this unit. After a defrost cycle is completed, the display stays in "DEF" or "REC" until the box temp reaches 14 degrees of the "set" temp. So, if you have it set on zero, the conditioned space has to get to 14 degrees and then the display will switch over and show the temp. One way to verify this, is if the display shows DEF, check to see if the compressor is running, if so, then this scenario applies.

No. Sounds like the intern temp sensor is bad, missing, or not connected. 92 is probably the max reading it can display. The unit will probably operate continuously, be much to cold, and cost a ton to operate. I assume you bought this from Sears. Call them to replace the freezer. Should be no problem.

depends on refrigerant being used, the ambient it is working in, the desired box temp as a general rule. gotta have more info.

http://www.arkema-inc.com/pdf/fluorochem/Forane404a_pres_temp.pdf

What is the
"Superheat" on the suction line 6" from compressor ?
Did you change the drier and evacuate to at least 500 microns ?
What model number is the condensing unit ?
Does the system have a "Crankcase Pressure Regulator"
if so is the TXV ZP type ?

why yes there is. Generally speaking, the head pressure should be around the "ambient +30" rule.
That is, measure the entering air temp to the condenser, say 75 degrees. Now add 30 to that and get 105 degrees. Look at a P/T chart and see what the pressure is for that temp which is about 253 for R-404-A.
The evap on a freezer leads the load so, as a general rule, the evap temp is going to be around minus 10 degrees to get a 0 degree box. Coolers are different. So, the pressure for a minus 10 evap is around 25 or so. But the unit has to be close to operating temp. If the box is warm, naturally the pressure is higher. And what influences the pressure is whether or not it's a TXV or a cap tube system.
If a TXV and no receiver, charge by subcooling. If a receiver, fill by sight glass. If Cap tube, charge by superheat.
Hope that answers your question.

these freezer are designed to run about 70 percent of the time the temp displayed can vary by +/- 3 degrees..make sure you have fan operation in the freezer and the air flow is not blocked or restricted. also make sure that the door is sealing properly

I would start there. If the thermostat has an off setting, turn it there and see if it goes off. If not, try turning it to it's warmest setting while the box is cold to see if it turns off. To test to see if the relay/ contactor is stuck/bad, kill power to the unit (Unplug or turn off breaker). Disconnect one wire to the thermostat. Restore power. If unit runs, bad relay/contactor. If unit does not run, I'd replace the thermostat. Make sure the sensing bulb of the thermostat is in the conditioned space of the box or in the return air (intake) side of the evap so it can sense the box temp.

The pressures depend, somewhat, on the expansion device,i.e. a TXV or Cap Tube. Take a pressure reading, then convert it to a temperature. The evap temp should be right at 10 colder than the box temp. Remember, heat flows to cold so the evap has to "Lead the Load" in order to cool. In many cases, the condensing pressure is usually ambient temp, plus 30, then convert to a pressure. These are general accepted practices that have been used for many years.

Hope this helps

I'll try to give you the "Readers Digest" version.
First, make sure there is no ice build up on the evap. Light frost is O.K. as long as it does not effect air flow. (Very Important). All fans need to be running. Again, an air flow thing. There should be some product in the box but not too close to the evap. Again, an air flow thing.
The expansion device can effect your pressures to some degree i.e. Cap tube vs. TXV.
As a general rule of thumb, which I use almost everyday when it comes to pressures:
Low side is based on the temp difference between evap temp and condition space in the box. In freezers, it is almost always 10 degrees. If the box is 0 degrees then the evap needs to be at a minus 10 degrees. That is a pressure for R-404A of 24.5 psi. This only holds true when the temp in the box is approching set temp. I would say, about +10 degrees. 0 Degrees for the evap for R-404A is 33.5 psi.
High side should be ambient temp +30 degrees and then convert to a pressure for the refrigerant.
Example: 75 degrees in the room, +30 degrees equals 105 degrees. Now 105 degrees converted to a R-404A pressure is 253 psi. This will get you very close to the desired high side pressure.
I would look at low side first to see if it is within reason. Don't let the high side get too high. Increases the compression ratio and overworks the compressor.
Your icing problem could be a defrost issue and not a refrigerant charge issue.

Good Luck and hope this gets you started.