I have a kicker zx750.1 hooked up to a comp vx 12. all wiring is per kicker recommendations. it will initially turn on fine and power the sub, but will randomly go into protection mode, sometimes coming back on after a minute or so, and sometimes not at all.was sent to kicker for inspection and they said there was no problem with it. i checked all wiring except for behind the deck. could it possibly be a bare wire touching metal somewhere in the dash?
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Re: goes into protection mode for no reason
Check again the wires behind the deck , if still doing the same thing , then check how do you have the speakers connected , in SERIES or PARALLEL ???? HOW MANY SPEAKERS ARE CONNECTED ???? The thing is your amp could be detecting a low OHMS IMPENDANCE than required by manufacture, and its protecting your amp output chips , hope this helps
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amps and wiring kits are very optimistic on the output. If you want proper wire, buy some welding cable "0" or "00" guage. That solves the power delivery. Put a 1 Farrad (or more) capacitor near the amp, that solves the surge power issue. Make sure the box is suitable for the subs. Lastly I'd say do some research and find the right amp that can deliver the clean, huge current required to move some serious air!
Well you really can't run both speakers on one term. because you will over heat the amp , unless your amp is rated at twice the capability of your subs , Then if so , Try positive to one sub , then neg. to the other sub , then bridge the remaining positive to the remaining negative terminal , But it is really best to get a two channel amp for your subs !!!
That amplifier is only rated at 150 watts at 4 ohms, or 300 watts at 2 ohms. Not a very strong amp to run 2 kicker comps. My guess is you have the subs wired wrong for your application. There are 2 types of subs, one is a dual 4 ohm, and one is a dual 2 ohm. Most people bridge these coils together and that cuts your ohms in half. For example. Lets say you have the 10cvr104 subs. Thats the dual 4 ohm sub. You wire the coils together in parallel, now its a 2 ohm sub. You have 2 of these subs running off of your amp, if they are hooked up in parallel, now you have a 1 ohm load, out of the amplifiers normal operation. Your amplifiers internals heat up really quick and there is a thermal overload, putting your amplifier into circuit protection mode. My suggestion for wiring your subs is as follows: for each speaker, wire the coils together like this- positive coil1 to negative coil 2 and negative coil 1 to positive coil 2. That is called running in series, and doubles your ohm load. Next, we need to wire the speakers together properly to hook up to your amplifier. For this, since the coils are hooked together, you only need to use one set of terminals from each sub. And take the positive from sub 1 and hook it to positive of amp. Take negative sub 1 and hook it to positive of sub 2. Take negative of sub 2 and hook it to negative of amp.
when you say swing arms i assume you are talking about the wires connecting the terminal (where you connect the wires to the sub) to the voice coil (the center of the sub).
If these are broken it is tricky to solder new wires back on. If your sub is still under warranty i would suggest sending it back to them. below is there number and business hours. Kicker Customer service Email: [email protected] Phone: $05-624-8510 M-F 8AM-5PM Central Time
Ok, for an 8 Ohm sub, it is advisable to get another 8 Ohm sub. wire them in parallel down to a 4 Ohm load. You would wire both + wires together, and both - wires together to yield a 4 Ohm load at the amp. Majority of the amplifiers on the market are designed to give more power at a lower impedence, or Ohm load. You just have to make sure that your amp will take a 4 Ohm load. Without knowing the model of the MTX amp, I can't give more advise. However, this should be able to give you and idea of where to start. The main problem is that you have a single 8 Ohm sub in the Kicker Comp.
Really it all depends on how you want them to sound, and to be set up. There really is not specific air space, but there are general air spaces that work, and some times the manufacture will list some specs for different set ups. It also depends on the size of the sub, which you did not specify.
Kicker recommends as follows.
0.4 cubs per sub for a compact box, and 1.8 for an SQ box. SQ stand for sound quality.
So if you want a small box, do .4 per sub. If you want a better sounding box do 1.8.
Rule of thumb and something to think about.
The more air space in the sub, the less power you can run, the less air space, the more power you can run.
For example you can run 200 watts RMS per sub at .4 cubes, but only 140 watts RMS with 1.8.
As well, the smaller box will be louder, But not sound as good.
it is probably the rca inputs on the amp may have fried. was your cd decked turned up loudly before the power went out? did any wires accidently touch each other? If had worked fine and then suddenly stopped, than either a wire came loose or the inputs fried. try using different cables and I also suggest disconnecting power for 24 hours and then reconnect. If the green light is on then it is getting power and the problem is in the rca cables or the inputs
check your fuse up front first. some amps will turn the light on with only the remote wire (the 12 volt signal from the head unit). That may be your issue. If not you need to check your signal input. try hooking the rca's to a diffrent source, i.e. other radio your tv anything with Rca out put. If still you get nothing then pull your subs out and take a regular 9 volt battery and touch the leads to the positive and negative of the sub. Just for a moment though if the subs move when they come in contact with the charge from the battery then my last suggestion would be to take it to a store where you can have an authorized tech check out the equiptment. Good luck