Question about Washing Machines
I need to replace my bellows/door seal/whatever it's called.... I see where you've offered to send out a pdf of the repair manual (or the whirlpool duet)... I need this desparately. my email addie is [email protected]
I've found a document that isn't very specific at http://www.applianceaid.com/image/Duet_boot_door.jpg
I'm hoping the repair manual will be more detailed.
SOURCE: Duet washer leaking
If the leak started occurring after the bellow was replaced, and it's on the left hand side of the door, I suspect the bellow is not seated around the fill tube all the way. I have experienced this problem before. Check the fill tube where it comes in by the door. The rubber should be seated back far enough to allow the tube to fill into the tub without obstruction. It could be that the fill tube is forcing water BEHIND the bellow and leaking into the washer and on to the floor. To answer your question, "YES", replacing the bellow could have caused your leak.
Posted on Sep 29, 2007
SOURCE: torn seal on Duet
If you are talking about the door boot, follow these instructions:
This advice is for the Kenmore Elite and Whirlpool Duet FRONT LOADER style washing machines. A lot of concerns have been raised about door bellows molding, mildewing, and/or ripping and needing replaced. A replacement bellow isn’t cheap (prices vary, but are around $75-80), so hopefully these helpful steps will eliminate the need to call a repair service and pay the additional labor charges. This is a repair of MODERATE difficulty. Just follow these steps:
1. Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the washer top panel by removing the three torx-type screws (or 7mm) where it attaches in the rear of the washer. The panel should slide back, and then lift off.
3. Remove the operator console by removing the dispenser and the scew(s) behind it. Take a putty knife and insert it under the console seam right above the door. If you push in slightly while pulling outwards the panel pops off. Use care not to pull or damage any of the wiring. You can leave the wires attached and simply lay the console across the top of the washer out of the way.
4. Locate the wire hoop retainer around the rubber door boot. It is located behind the rubber seam where it attaches to the door frame. Follow this hoop around to the bottom of the door opening and locate the wire tension spring. Gently pry this spring apart and pull the wire hoop from the groove. Pull the rubber boot from the frame and push it inside towards the wash tub. You will also have to remove the door boot from the fill tube on the left hand side of the door opening. There is a small wire clamp holding it in place.
5. Remove the three screws that hold the door latch assembly in place. This is on the right hand side of the door opening. You can leave the latch in place as long as you remove the screws and push it inside slightly to remove it from the front casing of the washer.
6. Remove the door by removing the screws holding the hinges in place. Use care to support the door hinges when loosening. They can bend. Set the door aside in a location where it will not get stepped on or broken.
7. Remove the lower kick panel under the door. There are 3 screws under the bottom edge holding it in place. Sometimes the panel can stick. A slight tap on either side will knock it free.
8. Remove the front washer casing by removing the four remaining screws that are holding it in place. There should be two at the top and two at the bottom. Set the front casing aside.
9. Remove the old door boot by locating the large clamp that attaches it to the wash tub. Loosen the 7mm nut and the boot will detach from the tub. Also remove the boot from the fill tube coming from the dispenser.
10. Install new door boot on the wash tub and install clamp. There should be instructions that come with the door boot with guide marks to ensure you align it correctly. Once you have the boot in place, tighten the clamp enough to where it is snug. DO NOT over-tighten or you may damage the tub and or clamp. In most cases the clamp will break.
11. Once you have the boot in place, re-install everything in the reverse order of how I explained to disassemble. Make sure you connect the door latch assembly BEFORE you re-install the outer portion of the door boot. Also, make sure you install the boot completely over the fill tube. There should be a ridge on the tube where to stop. Sometimes the tube is not inserted all way into the boot and water will leak behind it. The clamp is always difficult to get back in place. If you cannot get the clamp to go back over the tube, you can live without it. Some newer models do not have them installed. Just make sure it is a snug fit where the rubber boot fits ALL the way back to the plastic ridge on the tube.
12. When you get the point where you are ready to install the door boot back over the frame of the door opening ensure you fit it snugly all the way around the door. Beginning at the top of the door, start inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Make sure to wire spring points towards the bottom. As you work your way around the door to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions, you will need to maintain some constant downward pressure while pulling the spring apart in order to snap it back into place. It would be advisable to use a second set of hands to hold the wire hoop in place while doing this as it has the tendency to want to come out of the groove.
13. Once the door boot is back in place, re-install the operator console and washer top.
14. At the operator console, select DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN and press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (has to be the same button, though). This will place the washer in diagnostics mode. You should hear the door latch lock and "C00" will be displayed on the console. The washer will run through a series of tests filling the tub, tumbling, draining, and then a final spin. If you do not wish to wait for the test to complete you can press CANCEL at any time. The test checks out everything and takes about 15 minutes. Look for any leaks.
I hope you find these instructions helpful and good luck to you. Let me know if you need further assistance.
Posted on Apr 08, 2008
I have not seen a tech sheet (or service manual) that details how to remove one of these. Basically, once you have your replacement boot (availible at local parts stoares or from the manufactures web site on line), You can follow these steps:
1 - Remove the front clamp. (a silver peice of wire with a spring at the botom) A small flat head screwdriver will let you pull it off.
2 - You will have a clamp on a hose that comes from the dispenser to the boot on some models that you will have to disconnect.
3 - There is a second clamp on the tub side itself. Remove it by using a short phillips head screw driver to unscrew it.
4 - remove the boot
5 - Reverse the procedure making sure to line the new boot up at the top. (there is a arrow that needs to be ligned up on the tub and the boot.
Taking the lower front panel off can give you a bit more room to work. You can take it off by removing the screws at it's bottom.
Posted on Jun 16, 2008
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