Valve closes by itself when at less than full on position

As the water in the tank reaches the full mark, the valve that shuts the water off begins to close. As it closes, less and less water is allowed to go past the valve. When the tank is at the full mark, the water is shut off completely. It's like letting air out of balloon. The smaller the opening, the louder the squeal. You may need to replace the float and valve set or some how lower the water pressure at the toilet.

F7 - Flow-meter failure

Symptom: water inlet valve (WV1) is switched on and the water indicator (WI) is on (level reached).

Could be:
1. Water tap closed during water inlet
2. Water inlet hose blocked
3. Water inlet valve (WV1) defective
4. Flow-meter (FM) sends too few / much pulses (less than 10 imp.in 10 sec.)
Flow-meter counts wrong (or the sump is full in less than 30 sec. Causation: Hose felt down and slipped the disc of the valve. The effect is a displacement of the valve tappet).
5. Aquastop defective
6. Flow-meter defective

Dado

F7 or 7 times flashing
Flow meter failure

Symptom:
Water inlet valve (WV1) is switched on and the water indicator (WI) is on (level reached).

Reason:

• Water tap closed during water inlet
• Water inlet hose blocked
• Water inlet valve (WV1) defective (mesure resistor ca 3,5 kOhm)
• Flow meter (FM) sends too few / much pulses (less than 10 imp. in 10 seconds). Flow meter counts wrong (or the sump is full in less than 30 second).

Causation: Hose felt down and slipped the disc of the valve. The effect is a displacment of the valve tapped.

• Aquastop defective
• Flow meter (FM) defective

Dado

First make sure your choke circuit is working. May be an indication that your carb needs to be cleaned. I wouldn't replace it yet= clean it. If the choke circuits and the carb check out fine. An unresponsive motor/ carb usually means bad valves or valve timing. Example: it runs rich, spits fuel out the carb no matter how lean you set it. Even with the idle air closed it runs rich... intake valve is not closing or closing late. In that case it needs valves serviced.

Choose two colors of the thermostat wire, and connect them to the NO and COM and connect them to the zone control board leads for the zone intended. Almost all zone valves spring return open when deenergized. So ensure the zone valve is open with the system is off. At the base of zone valve there is a set screw that needs to engage the damper valve shaft in the open position with the motor in the spring release position. Most zone valve are 90 degree moment from full open to full shut. If you have a Carrier zone valve, they go full open to full shut in 45 degrees of motion. Your open stop need to be set so the valve stops in the full stop position.
To help understand the operation of a zone system, say you have 2 zone system and zone 1 thermostat initiates a heat or cool demand. Zone 2 valves energizes and shuts and zone 1 stays open and allow air to heat/ cool zone 1. If zone 2 thermostat simultaniously initiates the same heat/cool demand, the zone 2 valve opens and both zone heat/cool. When either thermostat is satisfied the opposite zone valve closes and when both thermostat are satisfied both zone valves open.
Hope this helps you understand zone operation. The same works for higher multizone systems.

Unfortunately, many cameras that fall prey to lens error problems can only be corrected by professional repair. But, here are some last resort troubleshooting steps that you can try that may correct it. They only seem to work for less than 40% of the lens errors, but if the camera is out of warranty (or repair cost approaches that of the camera), they're worth that try.

there is a heater inlet valve that is controlled by either a cable or a vacuum diaphram. This heater inlet valve is usually on the engine side of the firewall. If the cable is broken or loose you will be unable to open the valve and port warm coolant to your heater core. If the vacuum line to the diaphram is cracked, broken, or loose then the same result. If everything looks correct, try moving your controls to full hot and checking the position of the valve. Go back and forth between full hot and full cold and check to see if the valve is changing position with your control input. If it doesn't change then either the cable is broken where you can't see the break (if cable equipped) or there is a vacuum leak upstream of the valve or the diaphram itself is leaking. In the latter case, time for a new valve.

P1004 - SHORT RUNNER VALVE CONTROL PERFORMANCE

Sound like something came loose. If you cannot find it you need to take it to the dealer so they can perform these diagnostics. Should be under warranty.

The engine performance and power output is enhanced through the use of the "short runner valve" (SRV) system. The SRV system allows the intake charge air to bypass the long intake manifold runners between the intake manifold plenum and the intake manifold interface to the cylinder heads by providing a shorter runner directly between the plenum and the cylinder head interface.

The SRV position is controlled by a pneumatic/spring actuator and electronic solenoid valve. When the solenoid is not energized (the "rest" position), the SRV is held in the closed position. When the solenoid is energized the SRV is moved and held in its opened position. There is a set of enable conditions including a minimum engine coolant and ambient temperature, SRV enable, and Powertrain Coordinator load enable condition. If any of these conditions are not met, then the SRV valve is de-energized (closed).

* When Monitored: With the engine run time above a calibrated value, battery voltage greater than 10.4 volts, ECT within a specific range, and the Short Runner Valve Assembly (SRV) control active.
* Set Condition: The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) compares the circuit feedback to a calibrated closed range, between 75% & 85% Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) duty cycle, when the circuit is de-energized or to a calibrated open range, between 35% & 55% PWM duty cycle, when the circuit is energized. If the value is determined to be out of the calibrated range in either the de-energized, greater than 85% duty cycle or less than 75% duty cycle, or energized, greater than 55% duty cycle or less than 35% duty cycle, state for more than a calibrated amount of time, this DTC will set.

Possible Causes
(F344) ASD RELAY OUTPUT CIRCUIT OPEN OR HIGH RESISTANCE
(K237) SHORT RUNNER VALVE (SRV) SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
(K237) SHORT RUNNER VALVE (SRV) SIGNAL CIRCUIT OPEN OR HIGH RESISTANCE
(K238) SHORT RUNNER VALVE (SRV) CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
(K238) SHORT RUNNER VALVE (SRV) CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN OR HIGH RESISTANCE SHORT RUNNER VALVE (SRV) ASSEMBLY


Hope this helps (remember to rate and comment this answer).

I believe you have a high water pressure going to the
tank. Minimize the water volume going to your tank. This is done by fully closing the inlet valve under the tank. Then open about 1/4 to 1/3 of the inlet valve. To do this, count the number of turns to get it full close from full open position. For 1/4, divide the number of turns by 4 and divide it by 3, for 1/3 open. Hope this will solve your problem.

Sounds like a stuck heater core valve. Find heater core valve. Under hood, find the two heater core hoses going into firewall. One of the hoses has a valve. Operate temperature control (full heat, then full cold) check that valve changes position. If not either replace valve or control system failure. Also, when temperature control in cold position, one hose should feel hot and the other cold. Temp fix: disable valve to close no heat or on heat.