Control board, fan and compressor all rep[laced with new ones. freezer side cools 45- 50 degrees, cooler side 55-60 degrees. Now I am told that I need an inverter to make it work. I think tha my tech does not know much after replaceing all the above. Please Help
MOdel # GC3PHEXNS03 So far I spent $300.00. He wanted another $ 400.00 for the compressor. I told him that I would pay that too, but first I want to try it for a few days to see if it is working. I did not work. He said his done with it and never came back. Thanks for you helpMOdel # GC3PHEXNS03
So far I spent $300.00. He wanted another $ 400.00 for the compressor. I told him that I would pay that too, but first I want to try it for a few days to see if it is working. I did not work. He said his done with it and never came back.
Thanks for you help
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Re: Control board, fan and compressor all rep[laced with...
Most likely he had no clue what he was doing that is a complicated ref to work on considering it has 2 control boards and inverator board and dc powered evap fan.
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The electronic control board is probably your culprit. These control boards control the compressor, fans and defrost. Look for any burned spots on the printed circuit bout it could be just bad.
There is no compressor on these units. These units use a Peltier cold/hot module where the cold side faces the heat sink and the fan exhausts the heat side. Another fan sends the cool side into the frig. I have the same unit, I am experiencing the same issue. I was looking to change out the Peltier modules (about $7 each) and try that. I did find a replacement Control Board is about $45 and if the Peltier change doesn't work this may be my next step.
Check the compressor relay. All fans should be running when the compressor is except during post dwell. In post dwell the compressor and fan con on but the inside ones do not come on for a specified time. SEE ADC how it works. You can use the diagnostics found in this GSS SERVICE MANUAL
Do not assume the problem is related to the compressor or the sealed, hermetic system; these types of problems happen only rarely. Your unit may have dirty condenser coils, a door that doesn't seal tightly, or a defective temperature control.
1) Check the cold control. Be sure it is set to "cold." Normally, the temperature inside the unit should be about 37 degrees Fahrenheit.
2) Listen for the freezer fan inside the freezer. When the freezer fan is running, it means the defrost timer and the cold control in the unit are both set to cool.
3) Listen for the compressor fan, where the compressor is located (typically behind or beneath the refrigerator. When the freezer fan is operating, the compressor fan should also be working (most of the time).
4) If one of the fans is not working or the compressor is off, the unit will offer very little cooling or none at all.
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Pull the refrig out from the wall , and remove the rear panel . Touch the compressor and feel if its hot or running . If the compressor is cool , then the main control board is bad ( since the compressor isn't running ) . If you can solder , you can repair the board (another paragraph ) . If the compressor is warm , then you could have a thermistor or 2 bad . This would have to be checked by a technician , unless you know how to get into the diagnostics procedure . Also , see if the compressor cooling fan is working and the black squirl cage is clean of dust .
this refig has 2 independent temp controls one that operates the freezer side (this one also operates compressor, condenser fan and evporator fan) and one that controls the temp for the fresh food side this one operates a damper and evaporator motor.
I looked up you model number and you need to check the control that is located to the left side of the control panel or the freezer control. if it is 60f in the unit then if this control is good it should read infinity on a ohms meter. if its bad you will get no reading at all. alternatley you may try hitting the control solidly with the **** of a screwdriver sometimes the contact will hange open. message me back if you need further assistance. peyton...
First, I think it’s important to know that the Ref side has no cooling coils, it’s basically a box and the cold air in the freezer is blown over by a fan through a channel into the Ref side. This channel has a door which regulates how much cold air goes through. You probably have two control knobs in the Ref side, one controls the temp with numbers 1-9, 9 being the coldest. This temp control tells the compressor how long to run. The other control is for that little door and it may have letters A-E, E being the coldest. If you set it on E (coldest) then this will close that little door and keep most the cold air in the freezer.
Now, why is that cold air not getting over to the Ref side? 1. The little door is not open. check your control setting. You should be able to feel air coming through the channel on the Ref side.
2. The fan in the freezer is not working. You can hear this fan running when you open the freezer.
3. The coils on the freezer side are clogged with ice which won't let the fan circulate the air over to the Ref side. This is a failure of the defrost system.
first make sure the fridge has not frozen over if there is ice on the walls it will screw the system that determines how cold it is up. if this is the case empty the fridge unplug and use a hair dryer to carefully speed up the thawing process. usually this happens during warm and humid seasons.
if this is not the case then see below and you might need a professional appliance service to perform the below unless you are fairly skilled
The temperature control thermostat directs voltage to the compressor, evaporator fan motor, and condenser fan motor (if applicable). If the temperature control thermostat is not working properly, it may cause the refrigerant system to run longer than necessary. As a result, the refrigerator will be too cold. To determine if the thermostat is defective, rotate the thermostat from the lowest setting to the highest setting and listen for a click. If the thermostat clicks, it is not likely defective. If the thermostat does not click, use a multimeter to test the thermostat for continuity. If the temperature control thermostat does not have continuity at any setting, replace it.
The thermistor monitors the air temperature and sends the temperature reading to the control board. The control board then regulates power to the compressor and evaporator fan based on the thermistor readings. If the thermistor is defective, the compressor and evaporator fan may run too frequently. As a result, the refrigerator will be too cool. To determine if the thermistor is defective, test it with a multimeter. The thermistor resistance should change in conjunction with the refrigerator temperature. If the thermistor resistance does not change, or the thermistor does not have continuity, replace the thermistor.
i would look behind rear wall of freezer, lower compartment, sounds like a short in the defrost circuit. remove the panel inside freezer and check for possible broken wire s
MOdel # GC3PHEXNS03
So far I spent $300.00. He wanted another $ 400.00 for the compressor. I told him that I would pay that too, but first I want to try it for a few days to see if it is working. I did not work. He said his done with it and never came back.
Thanks for you help
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