This is a clear evidence of a broken motor coupler. It is the one that connects the drive motor shaft to the transmission assembly and transfer the
mechanical energy of the motor. The mechanical energy is not transferred to the transmission
and therefore result in the agitator not to agitate and the drum not to
spin. The drain pump works because it is directly coupled to the rear
spline of the motor. Replace the motor coupler to address the problem.
Release the console from the top of the cabinet depending on the model of your machine then pull forward and up on the
console and lay it back on the hinges.
Disconnect the lid switch harness connector by pressing on the tab
located in the middle and pulling it up.
The cabinet is attached
to the rear of the washer by
two brass-Kenmore washer it will fill agaite, drain the - 4e2277c.jpgetaining clips. Insert a flat blade screwdriver into the turned-up edge
of the clip, located on both sides, and then pry back to release the
clip from the slot in the cabinet.
Open and hold the lid while grabbing
the cabinet front opening then tilt the top of the cabinet toward you by
pulling the cabinet away from the basKenmore washer it will fill agaite, drain the - 8df0387.jpgeases the front and
back slots of the cabinet from the tabs in the front and back of the
base. Using the side of your leg andKenmore washer it will fill agaite, drain the - 362516f.jpg a support for the front Kenmore washer it will fill agaite, drain the - 8f6d9e3.jpgbinet, carefully lift up and set the cabinet aside.
With the cabinet removed, pry the clips securing the pump to the motor off and remove the pump.
Disconnect the motor harness then remove the
screw securing the bottom clip holding the motor and remove the cliKenmore washer it will fill agaite, drain the - 029e147.jpghe motor from the bottom while loosening the screw securing the
top clip holding the motor. Remove the clip then pull the motKenmore washer it will fill agaite, drain the - 2870fd6.jpg
the washer.
Remove the broken coupler parts from the transmission
and the motor
shaft then tap the new coupler parts in place or until the splines are
even with the edge of the coupler.
Remove the motor mounting plate to remove the coupler part in the transmission side more easily.
Once the coupler parts are properly installed, put the rubber grommet into the
coupler in the motor then line up the remaining slots on the grommet
with the coupler prongs in the transmission and put them together.
Secure the motor with the clips and the clips with the screws then
reconnect the motor wiring harness to the motor terminals and reinstall the pump in reverse order of the removal steps.
Bring the cabinet to the front of the washer then slide the front bottom rail of the cabinet under the rail at the
base
of the machine then lay down the cabinet into position. Make sure the
slots in the cabinet sit into the tabs at the base of machine.
Reconnect
the lid switch harness then push the retaining clips back down into position
to secure the cabinet to the rear of the machine. Reinstall and secure
the console to complete the repair.
SOURCE: Washer fill or drain but does not spin
It's not supposed to spin during water fill and draining, if I understand your post.
Charlie
SOURCE: kenmore elite washer
Assuming you have a top loader, because a front loader does not have an agitator, the spindle that holds the agitator securely in place has worn down to the poing that it won't turn. They are usually made of rubber and has grooves in it and fits into a the agitator. The grooves are worn out. Replace them from an appliance store and you should be in good shape.
SOURCE: Kenmore series 80, fills and agiatates, but stops before if drains and spins
This is a common symptom of a defective lid switch. If you try opening and closing the lid and do not hear a distinctive "clicking" sound, your lid switch may need to be replaced. Some lid switches are located on the right-hand side of the lid opening with a small slot. It is activated by a plastic piece called a “lid strike” on the lid itself. Make sure the lid strike is not broken off. This will keep the switch from not working. On some model washers the lid switch is located on the left-hand side, in the rear, mounted under the casing near the lid hinge. It is activated by a rod on the lid hinge. Sometimes the rod can be adjusted if it is not making good contact with the switch. In either case, if the switch is not activated, it will allow the washer to fill and maybe agitate, but will not start the rinse or drain cycles. If you diagnose it and wish to attempt the repair yourself, the switch costs about $35 and is fairly simple to replace if you follow the steps below:
First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. I believe your washer has release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. Or, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:
1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.
2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.
3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.
You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame. Just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job.
Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:
1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.
2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.
3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle and close the console.
I hope you find this helpful. If you have any questions please let me know by posting comments. Parts can be found at searspartdirect.com or repairclinic.com.
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