This response is for folks having issue were the unit is dead no power to display. i have the same unit and it passed on this week.
i took it apart and found the ckt board and the zener diode at location d9 was burnt so was the board.
i replaced that diode with 1 from radio shack it was a zener diode 12 volt. cost 1.39 for 2 now its brewing again.
It is kinda hidden and is hard to find. You will need to a soldering gun to replace it. The fuse is down by the element and has a heat resistant sheath over it. It does not look like an auto fuse. Good luck. Mark.
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No----More Than Likely Bad Fuse Link--Could Be Also Not Installed Correctly. FYI--Fuse Links Are Soft Wire, That Will Blow Just Like A Fuse. On Your Vehicle They Are All On The Battery Side Of Starter Relay. ie: All On Same Side As Positive Battery Cable. There Should Be No Small Wires On Starter Side Of Relay. The One You Are Looking For Goes To A Yellow Wire--You May Have To Open Harness A Little To Find. Try Stretching Link With Your Fingers--You Will Find Very Soft Area, Or It Will Break. DO NOT Replace A Fuse Link With A Inline Fuse Or Regular Wire.
A GOOD Parts House Will Have Fuse Links In Blister Pack--Be Sure They Give You One With The Right Amperage. They Should Be CAREFULLY Soldered In.
depends onthe model and cause of malfunction. many units have an inline fuse between power input and pc board. you will need to get someone (or yourself) to take it apart to check the fuse. if the fuse is fine or does not exist then your next step is looking for popped capacitors or other component damage. anythign is fixable just need to know how. its almost impossible to get help doing that here.
You didn't post an engine size but you are correct in thinking there is a fusible link that blew when you grounded the orange wire but there is also an inline fuse that protects the oil pressure switch and the fuel pump relay. It is usually located on the firewall.
You can check the fusible links near the starter for continuity. If one of them is burnt up start there by replacing it. If none of them are bad you will need to find the inline fuse. At least the 3.3 liter engine is set up this way.
Check for good ground.try attaching jumper cable from negative side of battery to engine block.If no result attach to body or frame of vehicle (area must be paint free) if that does not work check positive cable for power going to starter. If power is present replace starter solonid .You may have a fuse or fusable link but check these items first.
the fuse is inline.follow the wire back from the heating element. the fuse has a heat resistant sheath over it,and it will be right next to the element. It doesnt look like an auto fuse. It has wires on both ends. It will silver in color. It also is soldered to the wire that runs to the element. I picked this one up at Radio Shack. I hope this helps you. Good luck. Mark.
bring white vinegar to a boil and pour it into the perforated top, the water reservoir and the link between the water reservoir and the brew basket. let sit a few minutes, pour it out and do it again. put the water reservoir back in, put water and vinegar solution ( half and half) in. Try to start it again. Mine did this last year and this fixed it right away. Try to clean the coffee maker using the vinegar solution once a month to avoid this problem.
THANKS "Guest" - you just saved me $100 !
I had already bought a new coffee maker (Krups) when I came across your post. The thermal fuses (there are two of them) are indeed hidden - they are right underneath the metal braces/clamps that push them against the heating element that they are meant to monitor. If you take off these clamps and pull back the white insulation you can easily replace the fuse(s). What you need is:
- volt meter
- needle-nose pliers
- Radio Shack thermal fuse 228C (catalog #270-1321) - these are rated at the same temperature and look fairly identical. They cost $1.69 at your local Radio Shack
You do NOT need a soldering iron. So:
- take off the bottom of the coffee maker
- take off the clamp(s) and pull back insulation.
- put your volt meter on either side of the fuse and check for continuity. In my case, one had no resistance (good) and the other had no connection (bad).
- take your needle nose and pry open the clips on the end of the wires that connect to the bad fuse ... put in the new fuse (make sure the polarity matches ... just in case) and scrunch the clips together again
- replace everything
In order to make this easy to do, I disconnected the water intake/outtake and also removed the two screws holding the whole heating assembly. Made it a lot easier