Motorcaravan fridge auto-igniter continues to flash even when fridge has lit but the gas flame ,visible through small glass in the inside rear of the fridge remains constant.Usually a do-it-myselfer i am wondering if the thermo-couple is on it's way out or is not fully in the flame,or maybe the jet is partially blocked and giving a weak flame. The fridge is working OK.From initial switch-on the igniter sparks rapidly (as normal) and the gas lights, and after a couple of seconds the thermo-couple kicks in....but then the igniter continues to spark in spasms..a couple of flashes every three or four seconds.We thought the wind outside was catching the fridge through the air vent in some way but this is not the case. Iain [email protected]

Gas fridges are rare these days in a domestic setting, so too are fridges that use kerosene.

I guess yours is a little more modern and probably a large example of a two-way or a three-way fridge. I don't have much experience of them and used them only rarely. In the basic form such a fridge had the minimum of controls and the operator was trusted to remember to disconnect one power source before starting to use another. When using gas it was simply a matter of switching on the supply and lighting the flame with a long taper or a match in a wire holder.

That wasn't very safe so in due course a safety thermocouple was added in a similar way to most gas appliances. The thermocouple bulb is heated by the flame and if the flame is blown out the bulb will cool and the gas supply is cut off. The addition of the thermocouple meant there had to be a button to press or knob to turn to allow gas to flow temporarily so the flame can be lit.
In time a piezo ignition would be added to make lighting easier.

The flame is small and so almost anything will stop it - fluff, webs, dust, soot and so maintenance and cleaning is necessary and thermocouples don't last forever and they sometimes fail and while not preventing the flame being lit while the button is held in, it will go out when it is released.

I suggest you ensure the gas supply is good and if so I think it is time the fridge was serviced.

If the igniter continues to click, that means that the control board is not sensing the flame through the igniter. You need to clean the igniter tip to make sure that there is not a build up of soot or corrosion. The tip of the igniter should be approximately 1/8" from the flame tube. The only way to determine "sufficient" gas flow would be to perform a manometer test to ensure that you have 10" - 14" water column. I would start with cleaning and adjusting the igniter so that it will not continue to try to ignite. If that does not stop the igniter from striking then you will need to replace the igniter. If it continues after you install a new igniter then you are more than likely experiencing board failure.

Oven clicks as if it is relighting almost constantly.

Old electric range ovens use a coil heating element called a resistive coil.
This is nothing more than an electrical wire encased in a sheath. They have flat black coils over rounded burner drip bowls that catch your drips and spills.
The newer glass-ceramic cook top style element produces heat that radiates through the glass top to the cookware above.

Gas ovens / stovetop that use gas and not electricity. These work by igniting gas and use actual flame on the the stovetop.

Newest cook top styles, such as the induction or halogen cook tops combine the same style to produce more even heating. Some of these ovens feature thermal limiters or thermostats that regulate the burner system.

GAS OVENS
The spark igniter tip is dirty (can clean it with either a little wire brush or a piece of fine sandpaper).
2) The Pilot flame is too low, and the tip of the igniter is not in the flame good enough. (the flame acts as a circuit when it touches the tip & completes the circuit).
3) The spark module is no good and needs to be replaced.(But 1 & 2 are your best bet).
spark module does not sense the flame when it's on. The spark igniter is also the flame sensor which provides feedback to the spark module.

Make sure the igniter is properly aligned with the burner lighting holes and it is clean. All lighting holes must be clean too. You can enlarge them using a drill bit one size bigger.

If it would not fix the problem, replace the bake burner and the igniter.
There is a small chance for the spark module itself to be bad as well.

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.


ELECTRIC OVENS:

CHECK THE OVEN RELAY CONTROL BOARD Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.

Hello Dan, Maybe this will help you some.

http://home.howstuffworks.com/how-to-repair-gas-furnaces.htm


Let me know, Mike

Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote that will help you with that...

Gas Range Repair Burners Keep on Clicking
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4033033-gas_range_repair_burners_keep_clicking

heatman101

You should find one button which you can push in or on some models it is a spring loaded turning action. Then there is a second button which when pushed you will hear a click sound. this is an ignitor and makes a spark at the burner area. Ok, the first button should be pushed or turned and held in place for a count of five this is to allow the gas to reach from the cylinder to the burner. You can then repeat press the igniter button to make a spark. Check in sightglass to see if flame is burning. Do not release the gas button for at least a count of ten. This is to heat up a small wire thermocouple. It is a safety device at the burner which glows red and keeps the flame burning and the gas flowing. Should the flame be blown out by wind, the wire will cool and the thermocouple will shut off gas flow. So to summarize, the gas button is a bypass to allow temporary flow of gas to the burner until the igniter is pressed. Hope this helps, rate me.

The flame sensor is bad

The max/min gas flame is for adjustment of temperature when using the fridge on gas. The next one with 0 to 7 is possibly the electrical thermostat. I am not familiar with this exact model. One of the dials will be able to be pressed in. The idea is to press and hold this button in for about a count of five, then push the lighter strike. You will hear a click noise which is when a spark is delivered to the burner area. Some fridges have a small window or guage which shows if the flame has lit. You may have to look down the chimney. You keep holding the press button down after having depressed the lighter strike button for about five seconds. This allows gas to flow to the burner while the thermocouple heats up. Once the thermocouple (which is a small copper probe sticking almost into the flame) heats up, it will keep the gas valve open and if you then release the button, the flame will continue burning. The idea is that if the flame were to blow out, the thermocouple would cool and in turn act as a safety by shutting off the gas supply. Hope this is enough info.

If it doesn't click or the light doesn't flicker it is probably either you don't have good strong 12 volt power getting to the fridge(12 volt required only to light on gas the first time) or else the little gas igniter module went out looks like this only sometimes black.


Now if it won't stay lit. It is something wrong with either your flame or your thermocouple. First try just blowing out the the flu right where the flame comes out blow compressed air in so if there is dirt or cobweb in there it comes out the back side. If that doesn't help disconnect your thermocouple and wipe the end and then connect it back up and tighten it. If it still wont stay lit still replace the thermocouple.