Hello. I'm thinking about buying Bosch WAS 28742 My concern point is the sharp edges of the holes in the drum. I'm almost sure the holes will be damaging clothes. Have an idea about a problem here? Thanks. Slava

Are you sure that the clothes are not getting caught on exposed zips.

Why not load some things like towels sheets (without zips/buttons etc) in the washer and see if the issue repeats itself. You should also be able to see if there are any sharp edges or loose sharp items in the drum (mind your fingers)

only thing is a new drum

There could be several reasons:-
Incorrect use of chlorine bleach
Unfastened zips, buckles hooks or fasteners
Ribs, tears and broken threads
Degradation of material
Hard objects left in pockets
Some sharp foreign object caught in holes in the drum and ripping clothing - feel all around the inside of the drum for sharp objects.

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

The ignitor and burner assembly/burner tube are accessible from the rear and the rear panel must be removed.

i.e.


Once that has been removed, you'll need to remove the rear drum support & drum.

i.e.



Then you can pull the drum assembly out...Now you should see the motor and burner components. The ignitor is partially hidden via the burner tube, but is pointed out in the image below.


Hope that helps you identify and access the ignitor for your Bosch WTMC dryer, good luck.


Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Check to make sure no rips in drum firstly..I think he fault may be the drum Paddle is loose /broken they are cheap to buy and simple to fit ..click into place Good uck.

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

I think if you can remove the cover and than re-install it may remedy the problem.

Try this...With the aid of a small screw driver, knitting needle, or anything small enough to fit in the small hole in this cover...



It will push in a tab, it doesn't take much force.

Rotate the hole (clockwise) to 6'oclock and it should come free, the edges of the cabinet, not the cover, are very sharp so be careful.


Now with it off you can observe the notches and how they should line up, place it back in place and turn it counter-clockwise.

If nothing is broken on the plastic cover it should resemble this...


Let me know how you make out or if you have any problem.

Thank you for choosing FixYa and Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

I am assuming you made sure the scan glasses are clean (the big main one and the small thin **** glass on the fleft side of the main glass.) make sure the mirrors under the main glass are clean.
This is usually caused by the drum starting to go bad and or the main charge unit for the black drum. Knowing the drum counter would help or the age of the drum. open the front cover and remove the big black waste toner bottle. Behind that you will see 4 protruding knobs - slowly pull out each one till it stops and push it back in till it stops. do this several times for each color and black. Clipped onto the door there should be a long thin plastic wand with a felt sponge on the end. If you look under each drum/developer unit you will see a small ****/hole with a sticker of an arrow on it..push the wand into this **** (felt side first - facing down) all the way till it stops and pull it all the way out. do this with each color - this cleans the laser glass. These two methods get rid of most lines. If the lines persist you will need to replace the main charge unit on the black drum.

If your thread is breaking while your doing embroidery, there could be a few different reasons. 1. The fabric in the hoop has to be as tight as a drum. When you "flick" it with your finger it should give you a poping type drum like sound. If the fabric can flex while the machine is sewing, you will break thread everytime. Also you need to be using the correct backing on the fabric. Your machine has a embroidery advisor that will aide you in choosing the right style of backing for the type of fabric your sewing.
Turn the machine off for the following:

2. Change your needle to a size 12 universal for most embroidery.
3. Inspect the inside hole of the foot for needle strikes. If the needle has struck the plastic "R" foot, your thread could be getting caught on it.
4.Remove the needle plate and inspect the hole for the same rough edges, there can't be any. Cut a strip of a metal sanding paper the size of the hole and floss the hole if needed to remove the burr. DO NOT ENLARGE THE HOLE. Simply smooth the rough edge. The hole size is critical for proper stitch formation. If the plate is damaged to the point metal is missing from inside the hole, buy a new plate.
5. Remove the bobbin case grey cover and the black bobbin case and inspect the metal round thread hook edge for roughness as well. Smoothing the hook is the same as the plate, you can't change the shape of the metal so don't go crazy sanding it. Just smooth the edge. The thread "races" around this area so smooth metal is a must.

I hope this helps, good luck!