I am installing a daewoo room air conditioner. I dont have a window sill as shown in the diagram in the the manual. When I installed the sill bracket, the raised part of the sill bracket (away from the house) is higher than the sill. When I placed the unit onto the bracket it is slanted downward with a gap. What am I supposed to do?
What i did was buy a 2x6 cut them all into about 18 inches in length screwed one piece onto the window sill and the other 3 i screwed into that piece going out the window so the a/c unit sits on the wood pieces and clears the window sill that way i dont have to worry about the a/c unit weight on the window it was all on the wood pieces sticking out
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If you dont fit an exhaust or fit to a window/wall, the hot air from the heat exchanger/compressor will come out into the room and you will achieve nothing except a big electric bill. Get rid of the heat !
Not really unless you can divertthe hot air from the back side to the outside and and the cool air and intake to the inside, you could do it with some clear tape and some plastic sheeting , but better to build a frame to hold it outside facing in two L brackets then tape it up with some thick plastic.
Purchase an "L" shaped shelf bracket (heavy duty of course) and fasten it to the outside wall under the window. You should be able to now use the support bracket against it. You can even get special plant hangers that will serve the same purpose. I have seen many people do this and it seems to solve the problem!
You need to seal the portion of the air conditioner that is inside the window from the portion that is outside the window, Sweating is caused by moist outside air leaking in and contacting the cold portion of the air conditioner. Do not use duct tape, buy aluminum tape which is what professionals use to seal air leaks on ducts. Home Depot sells the tape. Buy the smallest quantity you can find that will do the job ( it can be expensive ) unless you plan to go into air conditioning duct installation.
For best results use some form of insulation over the accordian like side baffles ( cut to fit) . Styrafoam from packaging or silver backed insulboard (Home Depot). Now tape the sides of the insulation to all sides of the window frame, bottom of the window, the sill, and the air conditioner.
Unless you enjoy doing this every year - plan on this being a permanent installation. It is a tedious job because the aluminum tape is not very forgiving and has a peel off backing but it sticks forever.
Air conditioners and high-efficiency combustion furnaces create significant condensation, which exits through a plastic drain tube. This should go into a floor drain or be carried away by a small "condensate pump." If water is pooling at the base of the appliance, something may be blocking the water's flow or leaking, or the pump may not be working.
1) Look to see if one of the tubes is leaking. If it is, replace it.
2) Test the condensate pump by pouring water into its pan. If the pump doesn't start, either it isn't receiving power, or it is broken. Be sure that it's plugged in and test the circuit. If it's broken, either get it repaired or replace it.
3) If the pump runs but doesn't empty the pan, the ball-like check valve just before the discharge tube is probably stuck. Unscrew the check valve and loosen the ball inside it. Look for an obstruction. If it appears that a condensation drain tube is clogged with algae, remove it if possible (you may have to cut it and replace it later with a coupling). Run a wire through it to clear it. To kill algae, pour a dilute solution of bleach (1 part bleach to 16 parts water) through the pipe.
4) With an air conditioner, ice may be blocking the tube. If this is the case, be sure the filter isn't dirty. If the filter appears to be fine, the air conditioner's refrigerant supply is probably low. This is when it's time to call an air conditioning technician.