The cooling coils are icing up. Have checked the defrost element with ohm meter it seems to be good. thermostat looks to be intact and sealed. Does this mean that I have a defrost control problem?

Fridge/freezer freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:

first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice.

AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.

May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.

u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?

Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.

Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .

Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?

ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!

THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required

Fridge Warm Defrost Thermostat Testing Troubleshooting Refrigerator Repair Frosting up in freezer not cooling Admiral RSCA207AAM Kenmore Whirlpool refrigerator frost build up in freezer not cooling...

sounds like a bad defrost terminator or bad heating element?
Fridge/freezer freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:

first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice.

AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.

May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.

u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?

Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.

Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .

Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?

ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!

THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zmdsBkO46dk defrost therm.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6SJN8oaA2XE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buX9KcZo2c0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVXT7pZyk_o

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53ZFeiWgtuk

God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.

it may be low on freon or have a defrost problem. you should check the door seals and gaskets. you

put a sheet of paper between the door and seal all around the door if you can pull it out easily the door

is not sealing properly, look for wor n or torn seals or gaskets, make sure the seal is clean and does

not have any icing, food,liquid on it. remove the evaporator coil cover, if the coils are frosted to the

point that the fan cannot pull air thru it, then it is a defrost problem. try to get it to defrost if the heater

heats up the defrost control needs replacing. if it does not heat up it's either the defrost element

or thermostat. undo the element and check it with an ohm meter should read about 30 ohms. remove

one wire from thermostat and check with an ohm meter , should be o ohms when frozen. it opens

just above freezing. good luck!

Good day,
The defrost system is made up of 3 parts, including the timer.
In addition there is the defrost thermostat, and the main heater.
The item most often to fail is the defrost thermostat.
It is located on the top of the cooling coil your tech defrosted.
It looks something like this.

In addition the main could fail could fail, and is located on the bottom of the same coil. It can be tested with an ohm meter, nd should give a reading of no higher than 35 ohms.
The thermostat can be tested as well, and should read zero ohms. However, it can only be tested if its temperature is not allowed to rise above 20 degrees.

As well, Whirlpool timers have 2 separate ways of being wired into the plug. Same timer, just a case of getting the flying lead onto the right terminal. VERY IMPORTANT.

Here's a nice tutorial on defrost systems. Well worth looking over.

http://www.appliance411.com/faq/howdefrostworks.shtml

Check the door seals on fridge and freezer to make sure there are NO leaks.
Try manually adjusting air flap that controls air from freezer to fridge, the flap may be frozen or the actuator that controls the flap may be faulty.

, you might have a defrost problem. Frost free models have a heating element that is controlled by a timer to automatically defrost ice, defrost timer turns on defrost heating element every 12 hours to melt ice in freezer and allow good air flow.
You can test defrost element with an ohm meter(located inside freezer coils-will have two wires going to a plug connection), if OK replace defrost timer (located in various places depending on make and model

If freezer is icing up, you might have a defrost problem. Frost free models have a heating element that is controlled by a timer to automatically defrost ice, defrost timer turns on defrost heating element every 12 hours to melt ice in freezer and allow good air flow.
You can test defrost element with an ohm meter(located inside freezer coils-will have two wires going to a plug connection), if OK replace defrost timer (located in various places depending on make and model

you might have a defrost problem. Frost free models have a heating element that is controlled by a timer to automatically defrost ice, ie defrost timer turns on defrost heating element every 12 hours to melt ice in freezer and allow good air flow.
You can test defrost element with an ohm meter(located inside freezer coils-will have two wires going to a plug connection), if OK replace defrost timer (located in various places depending on make and model

If freezer is icing up, you might have a defrost problem. Frost free models have a heating element that is controlled by a timer to automatically defrost ice, ie defrost timer turns on defrost heating element every 12 hours to melt ice in freezer and allow good air flow.
You can test defrost element with an ohm meter(located inside freezer coils-will have two wires going to a plug connection), if OK replace defrost timer (located in various places depending on make and model of fridge)

CHANCES ARE THE DEFROST HEATER HAS GONE BAD LOOK IN THE BACK OF THE FREEZER ON THE REAR WALL DO YOU SEE ICE BUILD UP? IF SO TAKE A HAIR DRYER AND MELT THE ICE.MAKE SURE THE FREEZER IS UNPLUGGED.NOW REMOVE SCREWS TO GET THE COVER OFF AFTER REMOVING THE COVER CHANCES ARE YOU WILL FIND THE COILS FROZEN OVER.USE THE HAIR DRYER AND DEFROST THE COILS CLEAN OF ALL ICE.NOW THAT THE ICE IS GONE YOU NEED TO OHM OUT THE HEATER WITH A VOLT OHM METER YOU CAN BUT ON AT ANY HARD WARE STORE OR EVEN AT WAL-MART. WITH OUT KNOWING THE BRAND OF FREEZER I CANT TELL YOU IF IT IS A CAL ROD ELEMENT (LOOKS LIKE YOUR OVEN HEATING ELEMENT OR A GLASS TUBE. IF IT IS THE GLASS TUBE YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO SEE THE WIRE ELEMENT INSIDE IF YOU CANT REPLACE ELEMENTS/S WITH THE DEFROST THERMOSTAT. IF IT IS THE CAL ROD YOU MAY OR MAYNOT SEE WHERE IT IS BROKEN YOU MAY HAVE TO OHM IT OUT BUT AGAIN REPLACE THE THERMOSTAT ALSO. BUT SINCE YOU HAVE THE UNIT DEFROSTED THIS WILL GIVE YOU ABOUT THREE DAYS UNTIL YOU NEED TO DEFROST IT AGAIN IF YOU HAVE TO WAIT ON PARTS BUT REMIMBER TO PUT REAR COVER BACK ON OR IT WONT COOL
GOOD LUCK