Hello, I have 2 black wires coming from the junction box, and a copper ground wire. I connected the green wire to the ground. Where do I connect the red, white, and black wires?

Firstly (1) will be Black=hot, White=neutral and Copper=Ground. Don't work on these wires with them live.
All copper wires will be connected together and if possible, the metal box earth lug.
You will need a SPST or SPDT switch (image of SPDT switch is shown below) to mount in your junction box. If your switch has a ground lug, you need to also connect the copper wire there.
(1) Black will connect to Switch Common, (3) Black and (4) Black. Note: all can connect to the Switch Common connection as the switch will generally allow 3 wires to be connected per terminal; one push terminal and two screw pressed terminals.
(1) White will be connected to (2) White, (3) White and (4) White. For this connection, you can use a twist cap of the correct size to parallel these neutral wires.
(2) Black will connect to other free connection on the switch. There may be two free connections, so the one you use will basically determine which direction the switch will be on/off.
Once connected and checked, you can power up. If correctly wired, you should now have switched power to (2) and continuous power to (3) and (4).
I hope this helps with your inquiry.

if you can see which pair of black and white wires belong to eachother it will make things much easier. take a volt meter and test which black wire is the one coming from the breaker box. the white wire that is paired up with the black are the feeding wires to that outlet box those wires will go on the "LINE" side of the GFCI receptacle. The other black and white wires go to the "LOAD" side. (silver screw for white and brass screw for black) the two copper wires should be connected to the back of the outlet box and if so, take one of the wires and also connect it to the green ground screw on the GFCI plug. if they are not connected to the outlet box, be sure to connect them securely

This is much simpler than it sounds, but if you're a total novice you'll need to read it all.

First, make sure power to fixture is off. Best method is to locate circuit breaker or fuse that controls that fixture's power. At minimum shut off the wall switch to it if there is one.

Next, remove the old fixture. Usually there are two screws or decorative nuts holding the base cover (canopy) on. On ceiling pendant fixtures there may be a retaining ring holding up the canopy, unscrew this ring counterclockwise and the canopy will drop over the support chain, exposing the junction box where the wires are connected.

It is critical at this point that the power is off.

Modern house wiring and fixtures are connected with three wires.
Green or bare copper = ground (earth)
White or grey = neutral
Black, Red, Blue or any other solid color other than green, white or grey = power or hot wire (this is the wire that is controlled by a switch.
For simplicity I will call the three: Green, White and Black.

The next step requires you to carefully pull the wires out of the junction box and isolate the black, white and green wire connections from each other. Make sure the connectors (wire nuts) for each connection are accessible.

Warning: With old or over heated wiring, take extra care not to crack or disturb the insulation(wire covering) on any of the wires. If insulation is crumbling away exposing bare wire, stop and call an electrician! Do not turn the power back on until he has repaired those damaged wires, they could start a fire.

Isolate the connection between the black house wire and black fixture wire. Remove this wire nut. At this point I usually use an electrical tester to double check that the power is off by touching one side to the newly exposed black connection and any grounded metal part nearby.
(Note: some multiple switched (three way) circuits may use a white wire as a power wire. If the black fixture wire is connected to a white house wire, mark that white house wire with black electrical tape for future identification.)
Once you are positive there is no power at the fixture junction box remove the connectors from the white and green wires.

Detach the old fixture and it's mounting bracket.

Re-attach the new fixture using bracket and new connectors that are usually provided. Some brackets have a green ground screw. Wrap the bare ground wire clockwise around that screw and tighten it down leaving enough remaining ground wire to attach to the fixture ground.

If the wires to the new fixtures do not have a 1/2 inch of exposed bare wire at the ends (stripped) you must do so. I use a wire stripping tool but you can do it with a sharp knife being careful not to nick the metal wire.
Once the wire tips are stripped, hold the tips of each color pair together side by side, slip the wire nut over them and twist clockwise until snug. (White to white, black to black etc.)
Take care that the new wire nuts are secure at each connection. Do not over tighten them but insure that they are correctly attached by gently tugging on each wire. When completed the black and white connections should have no exposed bare wire showing.
The Green (bare copper) wire is there for safety and never carries current, hence exposed wire is not an issue on ground wires.

Assemble and attach the new fixture according to instructions in the box.

Pendant ceiling fixtures usually require additional assembly steps including adjusting chain height, looping wires through the chain and slipping retaining nut and canopy over chain prior to connecting. Always follow directions that come with the fixtures.

When in doubt, call a professional. Electricity is dangerous.

Your copper, green wire are the ground. I beleave that the white is the power, and the black is your neg. to make sure i would use a wire tester to determen the power. From there white goes to white, black to black, and green to copper. I am not sure on the white/black wire it maybe another power. Look at your instalation manual it should tell you.
Hope this can help.

The colors of the wires in the Harbor Breeze ceiling fan kits tell you what their functions are. The black wire is hot for the fan, the white is a common wire for both the fan and the light kit, green is ground and blue is hot for the light kit. locate the black and blue wires from the ceiling fan and connect them to the black wire inside the electrical junction box by twisting an orange wire connector onto all three wires. Locate the white wire from the ceiling fan and the white wire from the junction box and attach the two wires together with a wire connector. Connect the bare copper wire onto the green wire from the ceiling fan mounting bracket by twisting an orange wire connector onto the two wires. Push all wiring inside the electrical box. good-day !

First thing to consider is size of Load.
Leviton countdown-timer Load rating is 1800 Watt, 120Volt.
Look inside Jacuzzi at rating plate on motor.
Rating plate on motor should give Volts, Watts and Amps.
Formula Volts x Amps = Watts.
Sometimes motor shows VA which is Watts
Is Jacuzzi on 240Volt breaker or 120V breaker?
Leviton countdown timer is not for 240V load.

A) If 120Volt electric Load checks out, here's how to wire timer if 1 cable enter box.
Timer-black-wire connects to jacuzzi-black
Timer-white-wire connects to ground.
Timer-green connects to ground.
Timer-red connects to jacuzzi-blue.

B) Here's how to wire timer if 2 cables enter box.
120Volt cable coming from breaker box has black, white and bare copper wire.
Timer-black-wire connects to black-wire-from-breaker
Timer-white-wire connects to white-wire-from-breaker-box.
Timer-green and jacuzzi-ground connect to ground

Timer-red-wire connects to jacuzzi-black-wire.

Jacuzzi-blue-wire connects to white.
I am puzzled why this wire is blue if circuit is 120Volt.

As a general rule for timers and dimmers:

The Black dimmer wire connects to black hot wire coming from breaker (122V line)
The red dimmer wire connects to Load (wire going to chandelier)

The wall red wire that is capped could be a couple different things. a) It could go to a second switch that was used to control the chandelier. b) it could be another wire that goes to same ceiling box as chandelier to be used to control a fan, except you don't have a fan. In the second case, if you install a fan with a light, you could control fan and light separately.

The green is a ground wire that connects to bare copper wire in box. The bare copper connect back to main breaker box on the Neutral busbar.
White wires that are twisted together inside your light switch box also connect back to to main breaker box on the Neutral busbar.
The ground wire and neutral are a redundant safety system to protect you from electrical devices and appliances that have 'shorted'
The black hot wire connects back to the circuit breaker.

For example, each circuit breaker controls one area of household lighting. The black white and copper wires leave breaker box in a single romex cable. The romex travels to a junction box in the area where the lights are located. The junction box is usually a switch box or a ceiling box. From the junction box, the romex travels to each other switch, light and receptacle box in the area. So each box has 1 hot and 1 neutral and 1 ground that is connected in a line that leads back to breaker box.

Here's a couple pages that make home wiring easier to understand:
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/240-v-water-heater-circuit.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Install-owb.html

I'm going to guide you on how to create what is known as a "switch leg".
1- run a 12-2 w/ground wire to the light fixture from new switch.
2- connect black wire "hot wire" to the shiny bronze tinted terminal on switch.
3- connect the white wire " neutral " to the silver connection on switch.
4- connect the naked copper wire " ground " to the ground terminal on switch
5- Disconnect the two white wires in the junction box from each other.
6- Connect the ground to ground in j-box
7- Connect the black to one of the whites in j-box
8- connect the white to the other white in j-box
9- wire nut and tape all connections
Oh and be sure that you turn off the breaker before you start. Hope this helps. Good luck.

There are four wires comming out from a ceiling fan. Check it. Isolate it to get four terminals. Check for continuty. In fact, they are pairs of coil inside the fan. As there are two coils inside the fan, you have two pairs of termials. After indetifying each pair, connect one pair directly to supply. Another pair is to be connected in series with a capcitor provided in your fan. After connection in seris, you will again have two terminals not connected to any point. Again connect it to supply (ie. LT supply viz 230 volts or 110 volts as per specification of fan). The fan will run. Now you have to check speed and proper direction of running. If speed is less, then only interchnage the coil connected with capacitor. If direction of running is opposite, interchange terminals of any one of the coil with supply. Write back me againg if you get any problem/confusion

On Cooktop From Box
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Black to Black
Red to Black w/red stripe
White to Ground
Green to Cooktop frame