Hi, I'm fitting a replacement Honeywell Motorised Valve in my hot water system. I've got a spot of bother with the wiring. The one I'm fitting is a V4043H-1056 and had 5 wires but the faulty one that is on there is a V4034-1106 which has 6 wires coming out of it - all the same colours but with an extra white wire. Have I got the wrong valve or can I ignore the white wire? The fitting instructions for the value show an 'S'-Plan which does not have the white wire and a 'C'-Plan with the white wire. I'm confused as to why my motor does not have the white wire when the instructions suggest that it should be possible to fit 'C'-Plan with the white wire. All suggestions welcomed. Thanks, Doug

The first thing you need to substantiate is the fact that there is enough water in the system. It will be a closed loop system requiring approximately 10 psi/ floor. (Only a rule of thumb). Usually when one protion of the system works and the other does not, it is an issue of water quantity available to circulate through the combination of loops. If you have to add water, you will probably have to purge air from the highest points in the system. Even if there is an "Airtrol" fitted in the bottom of the expansion tank, bleeding the high points will eliminate air quicker.

The hot water portion of the loop should only be going through a heat exchanger that transfers the loop temp to the domestic water circuit and the three way valve is probably a 'mixing valve' utilized to maintain a certain loop temperature on the primary loop.

I'm doing a lot of guessing here for lack of information. You have a residential boiler and hydronic heating system that is zoned around your home and each zone has an independent thermostat?
Again, I need to guess. The old valve was spring return with yellow, blue and red wires? If all is true so far, then I think you had a single end switch with one COMMON - one NORMALLY OPEN and one NORMALLY CLOSED contact. 6 wires would make up 2 end switches. Brown is a normal color for one lead of an end switch. If this is all true, your new switches are probably NORMALLY OPEN and you only need 1. If this did not help you, give me a better description of old and new and I will get this correctly answered for you.

I am having a similar problem mine will not shut down but what I understand from the service man is the valve should work on Automatic... manual is for a defective valve and you can force heat through by setting it on manual...

it sounds like the motor in the motorised valve is not working on some models you can just change the head /motor , check cylinderstat (hot water stat) is working

Put a temperature operated control (aquastat) on the piping of the wood stove so that if it is on, it will interupt the circuit wired to the oil burner at the X&X terminals of the boiler control.As the wood stove cools off, it will close the connection allowing the oil system to fire.

Hi two things that go wrong inside the valve gets clogged up and blocks up in side, the valve in side and get worn sorry 3 things the motor on the top burns out , if you remove the top cover you will see a small motor with 2 orange wires on it you can remove the motor with 1 screw and see if its turning

have you got a motorised valve problem

The leak is coming from a seal around the pin that the motor acts upon, the seal does not come as a replaceable part on its own, so the whole flow group as it is called will need to be replaced, approximate price 170 to 200 pounds inc vat, makers part no 998613. plus 2 or 3 hours labour of a corgi registered engineer. If your boiler is more than 6 years old and you have not had to replace the fan or other parts yet, then think about getting a new high efficiency boiler, it could be a better long term solution.

One of these wires is contains permanent live, neutral and earth. The other wil be heating on and hot water on, the earth on this wire will probably not be used.
you will have to trace the wiring back or test it!! Be carefull!!

I had the same problem. I traced it to the micro switch in the water/central heating motorised valve having shorted out.

I replaced the (Honeywell) motorised valve and it is now only running when it should.

Jo