How do i hook my manifold gauges to my residental condensing unit to check pressures

See the pressures list in this post

http://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/abnormal-ac-manifold-gauge-readings/

From the condensing unit you can see two valves. Connect the blue hose to the bigger pipe sometimes marked "S" to the suction manifold gauge with the blue dial.The discharge valve "D" is the smaller pipe and connect it to the red hose going to the red dial gauge. After connecting the hoses respectively, open the blue handle of the manifold to release air from the blue hose and close it. The same thing should be done to the red handle valve of the manifold. Connect the yellow hose to your freon cylinder and slightly open the cylinder valve while connecting it to the middle of the gauge manifold. Now, there is no air from all hoses and you can start charging freon when the unit start running. Check suction pressure and the Rated Load Ampere of the unit

CHECK REFRIGERANT CHARGE. USING A MANIFOLD GAUGE SET. HOOK MANIFOLD GAUGE SET TO LOW PRESSURE PORT AND HIGH PRESSURE SIDE PORT. LOW SIDE PRESSURE SIDE SHOULD HAVE 25 - 36 PSI AND HIGH PRESSURE SIDE SHOULD BE 178 - 237 PSI. IF LOW SIDE PRESSURE SIDE READ BELOW 20 PSI THE LOW PRESSURE SWITCH WILL NOT TURN ON THE AC COMPRESSOR CLUTCH NEED TO ADD LITTLE MORE REFRIGERANT. IF REFRIGERANT LEVEL CORRECT CHECK AC COMPRESSOR FUSE AND RELAY.IF POWER GOING TO AC COMPRESSOR CLUTCH YOUR COMPRESSOR CLUTCH HAS OPEN WINDING. AC COMPRESSOR CLUTCH NEED REPLACING.

In order to know if you have the correct charge you must measure the subcooling since it is a txv unit. The outside unit will have the proper subooling you need printed on the data plate. Hook up you gauges and let thebunit run for 10 minutes, after 10 minutes check the high side pressure, that high side pressure will correspond to a saturation temp, write that number down then measure the temp of the liquid line and subtract the saturation temp from the liquid line temp, it should be the same as printed on tjhe data plate if it is higher than that add refrigerant untill you get whtas printed on tne data plate. Is there is no data plate use 12 degrees of subcooling.

If you are not a service technician you probably won't have the tools you will need to accomplish the move. Here is what it takes, step bye step. 1. Pull the fuses or turn off the electrical breaker in the house. 2. Hook up a gauge manifold to the Condensing unit ports for the liquid and suction lines. 3. Hook up a Refrigerant recovery machine to the manifold. 4. Recover the refrigerant into recovery tanks down to a trace, no vacuum. 5. Disconnect the electrical whip and control wiring from the condenser. 6. Close off the service valves on the liquid and suction lines at the condenser. 7. Slowly unscrew the copper line connections to the condensing unit to relieve any pressure that may exist from Refrigerant boiling out of the oil in the compressor and quickly cap them. 8. Move the unit to your new, firm and level location. 9. Remove the old electrical disconnect and whip and move it to the condenser. 10. Buy a new line set of the proper length or extend the old one with Refrigeration copper and couplings preserving the condenser couplings. 11. Replace the liquid line drier and reconnect the copper lines to the condensing unit. Replace the "O" Rings if needed to insure a good seal. 12. Hook up a vacuum pump to your gauge manifold. 13. Open the isolation valves on the condenser. Depending on the oil type in the system, evacuate to 250 Microns. 13. Charge system with 50 pounds of Nitrogen and a little Refrigerant for a trace test. 14. Watch your gauges for a drop in pressure indicating a leak. 15. Check all fittings and any splices with a good Halogen gas detector. 16. Evacuate the system again to the point of vaporization of the oil in the compressor being careful not to boil it off. 17. Close off all ports on your manifold and install a small drier to your Refrigerant line. 18. Re-install the recovered Refrigerant, running it through the small drier on your manifold. 19. Re-check for leaks. 20. Install the electrical whip on the contacter and the control wires on the contacter coil. 21.Start the AC and check the running amps against the name plate Full Load Amps (FLA) or Regular Load Amps (RLA) and check the Refrigerant charge against the units chart. Either in your owners manual or glued to the electrical access cover.
Method 2 = Instead of recovering the refrigerant, you can pump it into the condensing unit. With your gauge manifold tied in, close the liquid line isolation valve. Run the compressor till the compound gauge reads 1 pound and close the suction line isolation valve. Doing it this way will eliminate the need for the recovery machine and heavy tanks. All else remains the same.
Special tools needed = Compound gauge (meaning it reads both pressure and vacuum). High pressure gauge, gauge manifold and at least 3 hoses, a vacuum pump, leak detector (or soap bubbles) and an amp probe. Please rate this response. Thanks for asking!

You will need a vacuum pump, manifold gauges, and new refridgerant. You will also need a recapture device to prevent your old stuff from going into the air. Remove the lines from the condenser. Remove the condenser. Draw down the system with the vaccum pump. Recharge the system using the manifold gauges to give the correct high side and low side pressures. This is not a do it yourself kind of job unless you work as a mechanic for a living.

have you cleaned the evaporator and outside condenser coils lately,try this first, then check unit pressures with a manifold gauge, also if compressor doesnt run but outside fan runs,it could be your compressor start capacitor,normally its a dual stage cap marked F for FAN and HERM for compressor and will have two "MFD" ratings and be either rated @ 370 or 440 volts A.C.

2002 is what I have. should be similar

Service Gauge Port Valves
The high-pressure service gauge port valve is located on the A/C receiver drier manifold and tube assembly.
The low pressure service gauge port valve is located on the manifold of the A/C compressor manifold and tube assembly at the A/C compressor.

Item Part Number Description 1 19860 A/C evaporator core 2 19849 Thermostatic expansion valve 3 19A834 Manifold and tube assembly—thermostatic expansion valve 4 19D850 Manifold and tube assembly—A/C compressor 5 19E762 A/C charge port valve (low side) 6 19E762 A/C pressure relief valve 7 19703 A/C compressor 8 19D594 A/C pressure transducer 9 19712 A/C condenser core 10 19D701 A/C charge port valve (high side) 11 19N585 Manifold and tube assembly—receiver drier 12 19959 Receiver drier 13 19C734 Sensor—evaporator air discharge temperature

Outside in the condensing unit you'll see the two copper pipes coming from the valves in the condensing unit. atach the hose from the high pressure gauge to the port in the smaller copper pipe (liquid line) and the other hose to the port of the other line (suction line) in there you check the low pressure (68psi) and if is low you can rechrge it, in the high side you should have no much more than 250psi .This pressures are for R22.

Hook up a manifold gauge (mechanical temporary use gauge, used by mechanics) and test the oil pressure. You probably need to replace the gauge. The computer sends info through a printed circuit board behind gauge cluster and sometimes you have to replace the whole gauge cluster.