Infinity 1300a car amp won't turn off...

Check the fuse in your car's fuse panel. If it is burnt then change. If it is still good, check the fuse on the head unit and amp.

accessories is usually the first position of your ignition key when you turn key from off. no ignition lights should be lit and cigarette lighter should work. this is acc circuit.you need to connect acc wire of head unit to this circuit. (can pick it up at cigarette lighter ) but if your looking to wire REM wire to acc ---DON"T--- wire it to the blue wire on back of head unit(rem out)or blue with white stripe.

is your sub/speakers ok? unplug and probe the speakers to see if any of them are grounding out... or your amp my be shot...

MAKE SURE THE GROUND IS GOOD ON BODY OF CAR BOTH UNDER THE HOOD AND WHERE YOUR AMP IS GROUNDED

You can use the factory speaker wiring for the Infinity speakers you should purchase a amp kit which will give you everything to install the amp. See site below

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18428_Raptor+ISPKBL4-BG+by+Metra.html
Well that all depends on the current audio system you have now is it just a basic or a premium factory system with a factory amp. Honestly you would get a better and cleaner sound if you change the factory head unit to a after market one which has preamp feeds and the higher the preout volt the better. Just make sure it is compatible with the amp volts input (Example 4v to 250mv) If you use the factory headunit you would have to by a high to preout adapter it connects to the exsiting radios speaker leads, but like I said before change the head unit you won't be sorry. Do not forget if you change the radio you need a radio install kit and the wiring harrness which converts the two radio plugs so you don't cut them so down the road you can remove the after market radio and just replug the factory right back in.

First off which fuse is it? The inline fuse from the battery or the amplifiers power supply fuse? Blowing the main fuse from the battery is caused by either the load (your amp) drawing too much current or you have a short to ground somewhere. Maybe there is a tear in the 12Vdc line and it is shorting to the chassis of your car. If the amps power supply fuse is blowing as soon as it turns on your amp has a shorted power supply. This will require internal component changes by a technician. If it is blowing after operation at high volumes I would say change the impedance that the amp is driving. If you are at 2 ohm try to rewire your speakers for four ohm. (go from parallel to series wiring then bridge mono or operate the amp in stereo mode)

2 things to try, one. run your RCAs on the opposite side of the car as the positive wire. if you still hear the thumping try changing your RCAs. if you still hear the thumping, try a different anp or head unit. if you still hear the thumping, your subs are blown. best of luck

Hello shaymus_hoos,

No, it isn't supposed to work that way. Although amps are usually wired with the positive directly to the vehicle battery, they aren't supposed to turn on unless power is supplied on the remote wire.

The problem is most likely in either the head unit or one of the amps. And if not corrected, the amps will sooner or later, completely drain the battery.

First see if it works properly with just one amp connected. Remove the remote turn-on from 1 amp at a time and test with the vehicle and head unit off and then on. If the problem is still there with just one amp connected, either the head unit is at fault or the remote wire is picking up 12V somewhere along it's path to the amps. Make sure you have it connected to the right wire on the Kenwood. Every Kenwood I've seen uses blue/white for the remote wire.

If both amps work OK separately, one of the amps is causing the problem. You may be able to correct it by using a relay to electrically separate the turn-on signal for each amp. You'll need a "double-throw, single-throw" type of relay. Here's a link to the Basic Car Audio Electronics web site that details the connections http://www.bcae1.com/. Connect the remote wire coming from the head unit to one side of the relay coil and ground the other side. Bring 12V positive from an "accessory" lead that is hot only when the ignition is in either the "ON" or "ACCESSORY" positions to one side of both sets of relay contacts (it doesn't matter which side). Connect the other sides of the relay contacts, one to each amp turn-on connector.

Hope this helps.

Try the head unit settings as depending on the head unit it can controll the amp sepratly

ok positve on amp straight to battery
negitive to ground on car or battery
remote wire to back of head unit
and rcas in head unit to amp